intake manafold stuck open?
Just thought I would chime in on this. My truck is currently in the shop for the same issue. $475 parts and labor. I was told as well that you can continue to drive it with no ill effects except for your wallet. I would assume that I was getting about 5mpg the week I was driving it with the problem.
If it was me, I'd attempt to replace the CMCV myself, really shouldn't be too hard, especially with the gargantuan intake removed. I've replaced these when I was building them at Ford, of course it was easy with it being on a pallet, but it was easy to install. Memory is foggy but 2 clips holding the rods to each side and maybe 2 bolts holding the servo in place. This is of course if you were thinking of doing it. If you do, don't turn the electric motor at all from it's "parked" position, it'll f things up.
p2004 code
I had this problem w/ my 2005 F-150 5.4L V-8 as well and took it both to a Ford dealer and a recommended Ford certified 3rd party mechanic. Both said that the IRCV needed replaced which I had the 3rd party mechanic do. Right after that it was running great but then about 2 weeks the code came back. I took it back in they said the valve would open/close fine when manually trigger (I assume with voltage). They cleared the code and told me to keep an eye on it. The code came back 3 days later.
I agree that it seems to run "OK" but I notice poorer fuel economy & seem to notice a difference in the shifting timing???
I have read (maybe somewhere on here) about cleaning out the cable???
I'm not a mechanic but I was a low voltage tech for 30 years so somewhat familiar with the basics. Is cleaning the cable something I could try & how?
I agree that it seems to run "OK" but I notice poorer fuel economy & seem to notice a difference in the shifting timing???
I have read (maybe somewhere on here) about cleaning out the cable???
I'm not a mechanic but I was a low voltage tech for 30 years so somewhat familiar with the basics. Is cleaning the cable something I could try & how?
I had this problem w/ my 2005 F-150 5.4L V-8 as well and took it both to a Ford dealer and a recommended Ford certified 3rd party mechanic. Both said that the IRCV needed replaced which I had the 3rd party mechanic do. Right after that it was running great but then about 2 weeks the code came back. I took it back in they said the valve would open/close fine when manually trigger (I assume with voltage). They cleared the code and told me to keep an eye on it. The code came back 3 days later.
I agree that it seems to run "OK" but I notice poorer fuel economy & seem to notice a difference in the shifting timing???
I have read (maybe somewhere on here) about cleaning out the cable???
I'm not a mechanic but I was a low voltage tech for 30 years so somewhat familiar with the basics. Is cleaning the cable something I could try & how?
I agree that it seems to run "OK" but I notice poorer fuel economy & seem to notice a difference in the shifting timing???
I have read (maybe somewhere on here) about cleaning out the cable???
I'm not a mechanic but I was a low voltage tech for 30 years so somewhat familiar with the basics. Is cleaning the cable something I could try & how?

Oye - old thread alert

Cables? Ain't no cables - they's rods.

Note the Warning - ye will pekker the actuator if ye move it by hand.
A vidya:
good luck
When mine did that same thing it was the rode that goes from ur actuator to the imrcv came out of the retainer bushing and wedged behind it not allowing it the close what happens is those bushing ware out over time and crack and the rode comes out u can get the bushings for around $20 to $
30
30


