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Problems with Volant Cold Air Intake

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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:05 PM
  #16  
shotgunz's Avatar
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Ahhh grasshopper. So much to learn.

Start here. Then take the time to read and absorb the hundreds of posts in here.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #17  
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So which was it, the 3.5 or 3.0 tube ? With the 3 valve, since their very under tuned factory, - set up for the average Jane. The thing to do is order a set of canned tunes first. That alone will wake her up, - then you'll see lol.

After the "mo mo power" bug bites yuh, look into air in and air out. As in intake and exhaust and custom tunes. Always talk with your tuner first. Or ask here, it's safer and more beneficial.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:44 PM
  #18  
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From: Burleson/Athens/Brownsboro, TX
Originally Posted by didier836
What's the difference? You guys called what my Edge Evo can do as canned tunes. I can go in and make custom changes myself as in the shifting points, idle rpm, etc. Does that make it a custom tune or is that still considered a canned tune.
Those are custom settings, not a custom tune. A custom tune must be written by a programmer for your specific truck and it's mods. Read post #10 carefully!
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by didier836
putting the stock back on today and putting the Volant on Craigslist. Very depressing, lesson learned i guess. Shotgunz i see you recommed the AirForce1 does everyone else agree that would be the intake i should get? How does the AirRaid compare? My little brother has one of those on his 2004 F150 and it sounds great and added alot of horsepower to his truck. Thanks for the help guys.
CAIs don't really add that much horsepower, even with custom tunes. The programmer makes the biggest difference. IIRC PHP did tests and found that with custom tunes, the AF1 and Gotts mod were the best two in terms of performance increase. By far the best for the money is the Gotts mod. It would be difficult to find an AF1 now, anyway, since they went out of business a few years ago.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:13 PM
  #20  
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Problem Still There

Reinstalled everything stock but the truck is still having the same problem. The little wrench warning light comes on (Electronic Throttle Control Light) and sputters and won't run right. Could a damaged MAF be causing this? Maybe i damaged it during install. I had to relocate a little wiring harness that sat on the drivers side under the hood right right where the stock air duct goes into the side. What does this wiring harness work with? Maybe i damaged something in there. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by didier836
Reinstalled everything stock but the truck is still having the same problem. The little wrench warning light comes on (Electronic Throttle Control Light) and sputters and won't run right. Could a damaged MAF be causing this? Maybe i damaged it during install. I had to relocate a little wiring harness that sat on the drivers side under the hood right right where the stock air duct goes into the side. What does this wiring harness work with? Maybe i damaged something in there. Thanks.
Maybe, all you have to do is look for damaged or chaffed wire. We can't do that without looking over your wiring. - Did you reboot? You have to reboot the PCM after any change in air metering.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #22  
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same problem

How do you reboot the PCM? Disconnecting the negative terminal on battery?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by didier836
How do you reboot the PCM? Disconnecting the negative terminal on battery?
Yep. to speed it up some, turn on yer headlites as well.

Anytime you reflash yer PCM it's reset as well.

MGD
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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MGD - The man with the plan. I have a question, more of a knowledge/opinion to ask you and anyone else out there.

I have the stainless steel K&N (yes custom tune from Bill w my Gryphon) but for the past couple of weeks with hot weather I have been looking at Volant or the AFE Stage 2 Si Air Intake System as both of these suck air from outside the engine compartment unlike my K&N.

I gather from your post above you would lean more toward the AFE? All the reviews I have read, including one from banks, says it's the best CAI on the market.

Agree or disagree?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by didier836
How do you reboot the PCM? Disconnecting the negative terminal on battery?
For at least 20 minutes or as MGD said, -Flashing your lights can clear the KAM as well. I don't trust that as much as I do just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting in about a 1/2 hour or so. Hell, I'll even pull the PCM fuse to make sure, -if paranoia gets the best of me.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 04:04 PM
  #26  
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Still doing it

Had the Negative terminal off for about an hour and still getting the same issue. I'm thinking i'll just have to take it into Ford. I feel as if it is something in the computer, where it tripped the "Limp Home" mode and now i gotta reset it or something to get it out of this mode. Not sure if that is the same as disconnecting battery or not.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by XPerties
MGD - The man with the plan. I have a question, more of a knowledge/opinion to ask you and anyone else out there.

I have the stainless steel K&N (yes custom tune from Bill w my Gryphon) but for the past couple of weeks with hot weather I have been looking at Volant or the AFE Stage 2 Si Air Intake System as both of these suck air from outside the engine compartment unlike my K&N.

I gather from your post above you would lean more toward the AFE? All the reviews I have read, including one from banks, says it's the best CAI on the market.

Agree or disagree?

Originally Posted by XPerties
MGD - The man with the plan
Oh jeeez... now ya gone and done it - Sir Breaching Round and his entourage will have a field day with this


First, fyi - I believe yer K&N is aluminum; they only make 2 kinds of tubes - rotation molded plastic and (dull or polished) aluminum.

IMHO, the AFE would be the better choice. Pricey, though. If you are going to uninstall the K&N, perhaps try the Gotts mod first? Either way you will need another tune with a new MAF TF; stock TF for the Gotts, and one for the AFE.

I'm not at all certain the power difference will be noticable enough to justify the $$$, and in terms of IAT's, they would probably be a wash. For certain, the existing K&N is not helping heat-soak IAT effects with an aluminum tube and open element.

You should ask PHP if they have transfer functions for this model AFE, and if they hqve had any isues with same.

Looks good, I must say:

http://afepower.com/shop/details_new...icle&make=Ford Truck&model=F-150&year=2008&&brandID=56

My humble opinion only, aight?

Cheers

MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; Aug 8, 2010 at 10:47 PM. Reason: wrong linky
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 05:47 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by XPerties
MGD - The man with the plan.
Originally Posted by MGDfan
My humble opinion only, aight?

Cheers

MGD


Originally Posted by MGDfan
Oh jeeez... now ya gone and done it - Sir Breaching Round and his entourage will have a field day with this
Good enough?

 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #29  
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What's funny is, No one knows WHICH Volant system the OP is running. Not even the OP. I asked, - No answer. For the 3 valve, - that makes all the difference in the world. I guess it doesn't matter now anyway. What ever went wrong is still wrong.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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Update

Sorry JPbrew, wasn't ignorning you just had a lot going on. The Volvant part is #197546. I can't find specs on wether or not it is the 3in or 3.5 inch. Took it to two different dealerships and the consensus was the same. The MAF had gone bad. Could the Volant CAI have done this? At the dealership they said no way and that either the MAF was on its way out (unlikely coincidence in my mind) or that i mishandled it, but i was very careful with the MAF sensor the entire time because i had read they were fragile/sensitive. So now my Volant CAI is a glorified $900 (including today's services) paper weight.
 
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