Q: What's a tune?

A: It's just a program that is stored in your truck's Powertrain Control Module (PCM), which is a computer that controls nearly everything of importance while the engine is running. Things like fuel input, spark timing, transmission shifting and many other factors are controlled by this computer, that has more computing power than the computers on the Apollo space mission that got us to the moon! The tune is a set of instructions that tell the computer how to react to the various inputs from all the sensors in the truck.


Q: OK, some people talk about a "stock" tune, what's that?

A: The stock tune is the one that Ford engineers stored in the PCM when your truck left the factory. Since our trucks are driven by different people with different needs, ranging from little old Grandmothers driving to the store for groceries, to wild young guys driving off road races, the tune is a compromise. It's been set up to "work" in all these situations, but it is not "specialized".


Q: So, has somebody figured out a way to "rewrite" the tune so it makes the truck perform the way I drive?

A: You bet! Engineers at companies like Edge, DiabloSport and Superchips have analyzed the stock tune and have redesigned portions of it to perform better according to specific needs. For instance, if you tow a lot, there is a redesigned tune that helps with low end "pull", to get you moving with a heavy load. If you want to use high octane fuel, there is a tune with redesigned timing and fueling that helps you get more power from the higher priced gas you're using. If you want better fuel economy, there's a tune for that too. Tunes can make the transmission shift more "crisply", suffer less wear, and they can reduce the "delay" that you feel when you drop the hammer in a passing maneuver.


Q: All right, are these tunes the "custom" tunes I've been reading about?

A: Not quite. They can be called "canned", or "generic" tunes. They're better than "stock", but they still target a fairly wide audience. For instance, the F150 is rated to tow trailers ranging from a little homemade "brush hauler" up to something approaching 10,000 pounds. A single tow tune can not possibly work equally well for all towing needs, even though it does better than "stock". Similarly, if you've added aftermarket modifications like long tube headers and a cold air intake, the canned "performance" tune won't be right for you, since it was written for a "stock" vehicle. Even things like where you live have an influence. Vehicle operation at 8,000 ft requires a different strategy than what is needed at sea level and someone operating a truck in Canada is going to appreciate a different tune than someone living in the Arizona desert. Even if you don't have mods and don't tow, your needs are different if you are an in-town driver compared to a highway driver. To get the best out of your truck, you need tunes customized for the way you drive and your specific driving needs.


Q: I'm still not sure I understand, can you explain the differences between these tunes again?

A: This is a comparison that many people have used. It may help. Pretend you need a new suit to impress your girlfriend.
Q: What is the difference between "Programmer" and "Tuner"?

A: This is a source of confusion, because these names are often used interchangeably. From now on, I am going to use "Tuner" to refer to the person (the software engineer), who understands operation of our trucks and knows how to translate that knowledge into a safe, effective, and reliable program (the tune) that you will load into your PCM. The "Programmer" is going to refer to the electronic device (the tool), that is used to actually load the program into the PCM. These devices are known by various names: X3 (XCal), SF3, Evolution, Cortex, Gryphon, Predator, and Flashpaq are well known names. There are some differences in each that we can discuss later.


Q: All right, I've heard of a "chip", is this the same as your "programmer"?

A: No. A chip plugs into the PCM itself (up in the engine compartment or in the cab behind the glove box - wherever your PCM is located) and it stays there. If the chip has several programs (tunes), you will have to route a wire, possibly through the firewall to a switch you can get to in the cab, so you can change from one tune to another. A chip needs no "reloading" of tunes and different tunes can be selected "on the fly" with a chip. You have to carefully clean the coating off the connector if you use a chip, so installation is a bit "touchy". Chips are not available for some of the newer vehicles. A programmer is much more simple to use. In fact, no mechanical or electrical skill is needed at all. And, programmers let you make custom changes to parameters such as Tire Size or Gear Ratio, a feature that chips don't offer. (Thanks, Norm!)


Q: So, how do you program the PCM? Is it difficult?

A: No. It's so simple a child who can follow directions could do it. You merely plug the programmer's cable into the OBDII port (the port right below the steering column in front of you). There's only one way it will fit, so you can't get it wrong. At this point the programmer's screen will light up and you just need to follow the directions that were supplied with the programmer. There are several precautions however:Once you've loaded the program, you can remove the programmer and store it in a safe place. It is not needed for vehicle operation. Some programmers DO have "gauges" though, and they can optionally be left connected if desired.


Q: OK, is this "programming" absolutely safe?

A: No. Nothing is 100% safe. Things CAN go wrong, but the reputable manufacturers of programmers and the reputable tuners will fix things if this happens. So, don't try to program the PCM in the middle of the night on a weekend in a deserted lot far from home. It may take a few hours for the manufacturer or tuner to get back to you, and, YOU MAY NEED TO BE ABLE TO PLUG THE PROGRAMMER INTO A PC for the "fix"! And, if you don't have a second vehicle at home to fall back on, you MAY want to program your ride in a dealer's parking lot, because if something goes wrong, the dealer can reflash your PCM (for a fee) and get you rolling again. (Thanks, Chester8420!) Just use common sense. And remember, the PCM is the vehicle's "brain". You are doing "brain surgery"! Most programming failures are due to "operator error"! So, you must use a bit of care when you perform this operation.


Q: What if I don't like the new "tune"? Am I "Up the Creek?"

A: Nope. When the programmer writes the new tune into your PCM, it saves the "stock" tune that came from the factory. All programmers have a simple procedure to restore this stock tune to the PCM if you decide to do so.


Q: I've heard it's possible for a truck to run badly after being "tuned", is this true?

A: Yes - for two possible reasons:
Q: I like the new tune, but is there any time I SHOULD return the tune to stock?

A: Yes. Return the PCM's tune to stock anytime you:
Q: What about emissions inspections? Should I return it to stock then?

A: Absolutely not! In fact, if you DO change tunes (including returning the tune to stock), it sets the "P1000" Drive Cycle code that will cause you to fail an emissions test. This code can also be set by disconnecting the battery or even by trying to "clear" other codes if they exist. The P1000 code will usually disappear in about 50 miles of "ordinary" driving, so if the tune has been in place for a while, just leave it there.


Q: What if I lose the programmer, or it breaks or gets stolen while my truck is tuned beyond the "stock" level. Have I lost my factory tune?

A: Yes, but you can replace the programmer and for a slight additional fee the company selling you the programmer should be able to return your truck to stock. And, a dealership can also reflash your PCM to stock, again, for a fee.


Q: If I disconnect my battery, or it goes dead, have I lost my tune?

A: No! Once you have loaded a tune into the PCM, it is "locked" in there until you replace it with a different tune, using your programmer. As previously mentioned though, disconnecting the battery will set the "P1000" Drive Cycle Code and it WILL force the PCM to "relearn" the fuel trim strategy for your vehicle.


Q: Can a programmer damage my vehicle?

A: It's possible, but not likely. The companies that make the programmers you see talked about in this forum have been in business a long time and they don't stay in business by breaking trucks. Likewise, the reputable programmers like Bill Cohron and Mike Troyer write tunes that are "safe". Some programmers, though, like the X3, SF3, Flashpaq, Cortex, Predator, Gryphon and Edge, among others, DO let YOU make changes to potentially dangerous settings, such as the RPM limit, shift points, timing and so on. Make sure you know what you're doing if you start "customizing" things on your own!


Q: But, I read a post by XXXXXXX, and he said the programmer "toasted" his transmission, what gives?

A: Please read the answer just above this one. No reputable tuner will create a tune that will damage your vehicle - period! Do you know how XXXXXXX modified his custom tune? And, more importantly, do you know how he drove his truck? If he constantly spins the wheels off a standing start, if he constantly tries to break records in the 1/4 mile, he's putting HEAVY stress on the transmission. This truck was not really built for drag racing. If that's what you want to do with it, you're going to have to do some serious mechanical modifications to the driveline.


Q: Can a dealership void my warranty for using a tuner?

A: Technically not, unless they can show the tuner was the cause of the failure of a warranted part. But, some dealerships will seize any excuse to void your warranty. This is another good reason to return your truck to stock and remove the programmer anytime you take your vehicle to the dealer.


Q: You mentioned "customizing" things a short time ago. What is this all about?

A: One of the nicest things about a programmer is that you can correct for changes in tire size or gearing so that your speedometer and odometer read correctly and so your truck shifts when it's supposed to. Most let you adjust the "feel" of the shifts too, to make them more "firm" or "smooth", according to your liking. You can change the RPM where shifts occur under Wide Open Throttle (WOT) to keep you in the powerband and you can change the RPM limiter. You can even change the speed limiter on your truck, if you have that need. If you regularly fill your tank with higher octane fuel, you can change the timing to take advantage of the antiknock properties of that fuel, which will gain you additional power. You may even be able to make minor changes to the Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR) to gain more power or improve economy. As I said before, some of these changes are potentially damaging, so they should be attempted with caution and an understanding of what you are doing.


Q: Are there any other features of these programmers?

A: You bet! Most allow you to retrieve Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) if you should see your "check engine" light illuminate. Once you have the code, you can often figure out what to do to fix the problem (with a little help from Forum members) and you may save yourself a trip to the dealer. These programs also allow you to "clear" the DTCs once the problem has been taken care of so the warning light doesn't continue to bother you. At the very least, knowing what is wrong with your truck BEFORE you visit a dealer (if the repair is beyond your abilities) makes you a more knowledgeable customer!


Q: Are all the programmers about the same, feature wise?

A: No. There are two significantly different styles: The programmers made by Edge and custom tuned as a Gryphon as well as the SCT Livewire can optionally be left connected to the vehicle and they function as a performance monitor, giving you the option of additional digital gauge displays to monitor engine performance parameters. Some of the more useful displays are Engine RPM, Cylinder Head Temperature, Transmission Fluid Temperature, Battery Charging Voltage, Average MPG, and there are others. Programmers such as the X3, Cortex, SF3, Predator, and Flashpaq cost less, and they don't have the "gauge feature". They are connected to program the PCM, retrieve DTCs, or to perform tasks such as "data logging", but then they are removed and stored in a safe place. There are also other, minor differences in features between all different models.


Q: OK, so which one is best?

A: The one YOU buy!



This is designed to be a "living" resource. It will change as technology and devices change. Questions that are seen on the forum may find their way into this document. If you find something in it that is wrong or confusing, please PM JackandJanet. I will work to make it correct and accessible to everyone. I value your input!

- Jack

 

Thanks J&J (and the entire f150online.com moderation team) for bringing this together... J&J put a lot of time and effort in to this and we sincerely appreciate it!!

-RP-

 

Having read many threads on tuning, including the "sticky" ones, I was still not sure what a "custom tune" on a stock truck really meant. I had a good discussion with Bill at PHP and wanted to share what I found out:

1. Custom really means that the particular tune that the truck came with is used as a basis for the custom tune.

2. The "Hex" code isn't a code at all. It is a file name for the configuration file that came with the truck.

3. The position of the digits in the "hex code" are significant. Looking at my Hex code of "RXFM4R2," the first four characters "RXFM" simply mean that it is for a 2009 F150 4x4 and any other major configuration for my truck (such as transmission type). The next character "4" means that this is major version "4," which varies by region that the truck was sold (cold/hot climate, altitude taken into consideration). The last two characters "R2" is the minor version - this changes for ANY change to the program and is not necessarily sequential (sometimes numbers are skipped).

So, when you get a canned tune, you are getting one that does not consider the region where the truck was sold or any major differences between F150s. The tune is the same for 2x4, 4x4, max trailer tow, etc., while both the stock tune and a custom tune take these variables into consideration. That is why a custom tune can perform better.

Also, if you get pinging (stock or tuned), the computer backs the timing way back and doesn't forget this for a long time. It can be reset by removing the battery cable for a little while.

I hope this is helpful.

 

Good info:

One very important consideration when buying a performance product and comparing horsepower numbers is altitude.

What altitude is the test dyno?

What altitude is the consumers vehicle?

I found this out years ago when EDGE first came out with the tuner for the 04 Ford F150. While I liked the increase in performance, and the better shift commands, it really did not impress me at first. Then I happened to take a trip to an area over 4000 feet. It was like I had a different truck. My wife even said the truck sounds different. Wasn't sure what the difference was at first. Even had "sea level" fuel in it at the time. I was able to duplicate this several times before I sold the truck.

The only explanation I could come up with was that EDGE products is based out of Ogden Utah and is over 4000 feet. So the tuner is tested at that altitude.

So I will not buy a canned tune next time. It will be one that I can data log and get the best tune for sea level running in the hottest time of the year.

For those of us old enough to remember, "tuning" meant changing jets for the carb, adjusting the timing, and maybe putting in a set of colder plugs. Now we expect the computer to do it for us. I used to double stack 14 inch air cleaners on my Bronco. If it pinged, I put a bigger jet in the holley, or backed off the timing.

So when you are looking for aftermarket performance, you must consider everything before you buy. When I look at a dyno sheet and see that I can only expect a horsepower gain at 4200 rpm, move along. Would be a waste of money for me. If it shows an increase in torque at 1500 rpm, I would jump on that.

The guy that goes WOT from red light to red light may appreciate a performance mod much more so than the guy that drives with the egg on the throttle trying to save fuel.

That's why I sometimes put in a higher octane fuel when I am towing in the hottest time of year, or going up a pretty steep grade. It keeps the computer from backing off the timing, thus reducing power. It's also why I think some guys will rave about how well an intake or exhaust works, where as another says it did not help at all. It all has to do with altitude, humidity, and driving style.

The bottom line is that the consumer must do homework and pay attention to detail. Consider your driving style and needs vs what you read on these websites.

 

While everyone would like a definite answer to this question, there simply is no possible way to give one. Generally, looking at products that have been favorably reviewed in these forums will give you what you want. But, you should temper your research with these points that were provided by MGDfan:In other words, you should have specific goals in mind and realistic expectations before you make the leap. And, it will help if you can discuss your tuning needs with any source you are considering. What kind of answers do you get? Is anything vague? Do you get the feeling you're talking to someone who cares, or does he sound like a "used car salesman"?

Remember, your truck is a valuable investment. You don't want to put that investment in jeopardy.

- Jack