I have 1 broken exhaust manifold stud, on the passenger side of the motor. It is the top rear stud, and there is about 1" showing out of the head.

How do I go about fixing this?

Can I heat up the stud and use an extractor to remove it and install a new one?

Any help, tips, or anything will be great.

Thanks,

Steve

 

I could be wrong but wouldn't heating the stud make it expand thus making it harder to get out? You definately need the extractor, try some thread lub. maybe WD-40 to loosen it up. Good luck.

 

I'm have the exact same stud broke even with the surface of manifold. I went to the dealer to get the brake switch recall done and they gave it the once over to drum up business. I didn't know it as there is no noise yet and no black soot. They gave me an estimate of $717 to replace 8 studs and manifold (I didn't ask for one). No pressure and I just said ok and left. So far from past reading:

1. Remove inner fender liner to give access 2. Soak with PB Blaster (longer the better) 3. Grind a small dimple in the end of bolt (place to start a drill bit) 4. Buy reverse twist drill set (Autozone) 5. Drill small hole in center of stud, then use larger bits in steps. 6. Use E-Z out to remove stud. Some idea's have been to wack the end of stud with a punch and hammer to loosen. To weld bolt to the stud and turn out.

I just searched on exhaust stud. I have to decide if I want to remove the other studs one at a time and replace or are they going to break when I try. And I want to know if there are better studs available.

? Do you have your manifold off and if so did you have any trouble getting nuts off?

Yours was the first result in the search, Let me know how it goes for you. I have a 99' with only 44K and I was not happy.

 

No, I haven't done anything yet to mine.............I just found it Thursday night.

I'm going to see a friend of mine this week that operates a garage, he's going to take a look at it and let me know what he thinks he can do.

It sucks that I'm going to have to take the manifold off to get at the broken one. I'm betting that during that process the other 7 bolts are going to get messed up or broken.

My manifold is super rusty..........probably has allot to do with the truck coming from the Buffalo, NY area and now being in Southern Maine. Lots of salt on the roads in the winter in both areas.

83000 miles on mine................I hope I can get it fixed cheap.

Steve

 

I bought new manifolds here:
http://www.partstrain.com/

Get a new one and do all the studs at once. I did both sides at once.

 

Just, my opinion, but especially if you're going to have to remove the entire manifold, there are a couple things I would do. 1) I would plan on replacing all the nuts that go on the studs if they are badly rusted. If you get them off this toime, you'll be lucky, I wouldn't push my luck and hope for a second, I'd just replace the buggers. 2) If you have the room, I would definitely try to weld a nut on the end of the bolt and turn it out that way. If you don't have the clearance, you're going to have and even harder time trying to drill it out for an extractor. And contrary to a previous post, the heat WILL help you loosten the bolt, because the metal around the bolt will expand as well. Welding a nut on the end of the bolt will heat it up reall good at the same time so weld it and then try to turn it out before it cools down too much. Lastly, if you can, I would definitely suggest that you soak the s bat snot out of those bolts with some sort of penetrating lubricant (PB Blaster, WD40,Liquid Wrench,etc). I'd soak em real good and then let it sit overnight and then work on it the next day. This does 2 things, it lets it soak in, and it also lets the excess run off and dry up (reduces the risk of fire).

A word to the wise, however, have a fire extinguisher on hand and close by whenever you're heating and or welding, especially around the lubricant, grease and oil that are around that area of your truck. An engine fire makes a "cheap" repair really expensive really quick. Good luck, let us know how you fare.--DIY

 

One tip talked about welding a nut on end of stud. Hold nut to stud and weld thru hole in center of nut. Sounds easy when someone else is doing it. Yes any nut or stud that comes off will be replaced with best avail. if I can figure out what that is.

 

I am at this moment in the process of replacing all the studs. Last week my truck started really sounding loud. I could hear and feel the exuast leak. So I decided to have at it. Two of the four bolts that hold the manifolds to the cats were completely gone. All four of the studs were gone from both rear cylinders. The lower stud on the drivers side rear was broken off a 1/4" into the head. The rest were broken even to the manifold. I was a little nervous but said screw it if I screw up then I'll have to pay someone. Anyways... I sprayed the studs everyday for a week with Aero-Kroil and tapped on 'em with a small hammer. (MAN IN A CAN as I call it.) If you can get this stuff. This is the absolute best penetrating oil you can get. It works. I used a 3/8" drive flex head ratchet with both a 12mm and 1/2" deep socket to get the studs to break free. Once they were free I used a 1/4" drive ratchet to make it easier space-wise. It was easier than expected to get the manifolds off. 2 1/2 hours, all stud out except the broken one's out. This morning about 2 hours to extract the one broken in the head by drilling with an angle drill and using a extractor. The three others came out like butter with a small vise-grip. The worst deal was the EGR valve tube. The flange nut was just about gone so I have to buy a new one fom the dealer $81.00 and change. What a rip off ,a piece of tubing with a flange nut $81. Damn ,I'm close to pulling an Elliot Sadler and going to Dodge!
Don't be afraid! The studs should only be torqued down in inch pounds from the factory so they will come out. Take your time and spray them and tap them. I took the passenger side manifold off without even taking the tire off.
Good Luck
Rob

 

If you can't get a 1/2" or 12 mm on the nut on the stud. I used a 5mm on the stud end itself.
Most important advise I can give don't over power the studs, spray heavily with a good penetrating oil (Aero-Kroil), Have patients!

 

I have never seen AERO-KROIL for sale here in Michigan. What type of store sells it or is it mail order. I will do an internet search. I have rear one broke but no noise cold or hot but I would like to change studs and nuts on both sides while I may be able to get them out.

Ok,thanks I ordered one can and got one free.

 

Here's the web site http://www.kanolabs.com/
Rob

 

I had the same exact problem and took it to the dealer to get it fixed and cost $400. I asked them what they did to get it off. Mine was broken off with a little bit stick out and they said they took a washer and welded it to the stud the welded it to the washer and just screwed it off. They said the weld would break and they just welded it back on there. If I would have thought of this to save me a whole lot of money.

 

I went to see my buddy that owns a repair garage, and he's going to try and fix it next Thursday.

He said he's going to try welding a nut to the broken stud and getting it out that way.

Hopefully it's an easy fix........I'll find out next week.

Steve

 

Now your on the right track.
My buddy (who ownes a shop) replaced both manifols (all nuts and studs), the manifold to egr tube, and both front o2's for $250 labor. Money well spent in my opinion .

 

Well it's in the shop, and all torn apart.

Turned out I had 2 broken studs, and the other 6 were rusted down to like nothing. The gasket was burned away, and the manifold itself is rusting away to nothing.

We're putting on a new aftermarket manifold, new gaskets, and grade 8 hardware.

Can't wait to have my "quiet" truck again.

Steve