Door Ajar/Dome/Bed Light
Thanks for the tip! I came here to look up might what be causing my Door Ajar light and cargo lights to stay on and look what I found! I went out a sprayed liberal amounts of Silcone Spray in the latches and it's fixed.
Thanks guys,
Steve
Thanks guys,
Steve
I LOVE you guy's!!!!! I just started having this problem over the weekend and figured that I was about to depart with some hard earned cash! I'll "shoot" her in the morning and post my results!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
I have a 98 but have not had any light problems, but I just bought it in August used. I agree that this web site is very helpful with questions. My dad has a 77 MG Convertible (it is a car from England), and it has not run for 2 years because he says there is an electrical problem with the dash and ignition, and that it should only take a afternoon to fix, but he has never had the time (we have had lots of stuff over the past two years including moving). He has a electrical engineering masters degree so I am sure he will be able to figure it out. We have had to push it on to the trailer to move it twice, so I hope we can get it fixed soon. Just my little car electrical story. I agree, this web site can pretty much answer any ? you have related to our trucks and even some other cars, thanks guys
My wife just came home in the 98 Expy EB and said the door ajar light won't go out. Two minues serching this forum I had my answer; two minues later all four doors hit with WD-40 and I'm good to go.
Thanks a lot to all you folks that take the time to post this stuff.
Thanks a lot to all you folks that take the time to post this stuff.
Thanks for the great advice on the door lock/light switch. I read in a different post that the switch was inside the door frame toward the bottom of the door that the black guide runs into. I WD'd the daylights out of that hole with no luck. Now that I know where the switch really is I can't wait to try it.
CurtO
CurtO
Originally posted by WLF
Just so I understand, the switch is inside the door? The moving part seems to be in the jam on my truck. I drenched that with no help. I had to disconnect the wire.
Just so I understand, the switch is inside the door? The moving part seems to be in the jam on my truck. I drenched that with no help. I had to disconnect the wire.
HELP! I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow and it'll end up costing nearly $300 to fix it there.
OK - Let me get this straight...
Is it the door latch (the side that holds the door shut) or the door jam (with the hinges that hold the door to the car)?
That might be my problem!!! Communication. At least that's why my girlfriend tells me.
I'm going to soak the door latch and see if that helps.
Is it the door latch (the side that holds the door shut) or the door jam (with the hinges that hold the door to the car)?
That might be my problem!!! Communication. At least that's why my girlfriend tells me.
I'm going to soak the door latch and see if that helps.
sharper4,
Remove the left kick panel next to the parking break. You do this by grabbing it and pulling it towards the back of the truck. Under there you will find a grey plug with approx 6 wires in it (more if you have electric windows and locks). Seporate the plug and the light and bong-bong will go off. Everything in the door will also go off including the speaker.
If you don't have door locks then with the ignition off, you can use a volt meter to find the hot wire on the female side of the plug. Cut that wire and you are fixed (temp). Reattach the plug and everything else will work.
If you have electric door locks then more then one wire will be hot. If this is the case, let me know and when I get home I will look and let you know what color wire I cut to stop the problem all togeather. The inside light will not go on when you get in but thats no issue for me (passenger side still works normally). Also you have to be careful you don't leave the lights on or the key in the ignition since the alarm for that is also disingaged. The advantage is you can now leave the doors open and listen to the sterio without the alarms going off.
I did this untill I can get a switch and the time to fix it. No way I'm giving the dealer $300 for this fix.
Remove the left kick panel next to the parking break. You do this by grabbing it and pulling it towards the back of the truck. Under there you will find a grey plug with approx 6 wires in it (more if you have electric windows and locks). Seporate the plug and the light and bong-bong will go off. Everything in the door will also go off including the speaker.
If you don't have door locks then with the ignition off, you can use a volt meter to find the hot wire on the female side of the plug. Cut that wire and you are fixed (temp). Reattach the plug and everything else will work.
If you have electric door locks then more then one wire will be hot. If this is the case, let me know and when I get home I will look and let you know what color wire I cut to stop the problem all togeather. The inside light will not go on when you get in but thats no issue for me (passenger side still works normally). Also you have to be careful you don't leave the lights on or the key in the ignition since the alarm for that is also disingaged. The advantage is you can now leave the doors open and listen to the sterio without the alarms going off.
I did this untill I can get a switch and the time to fix it. No way I'm giving the dealer $300 for this fix.
Last edited by WLF; Mar 19, 2003 at 02:08 PM.
HI I read the info. about the dome lights staying on and I told my husband to try spraying the W-40. on the door latches and low and behold it worked the lights go on and off when you open the doors!! Thank goodness....But I noticed the doors lights turned on and off only with the back doors of the crew cab?? not the frount doors I can turn the dome lights on and off with the dash switch timer thing. Is that how it should be working? shouldn't the doors all activate the dome lights. There are two dome lights in my truck. Anyhow if anyone know the answer please advise. thanks


