??How to get safe constant 12V??
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 205
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From: Rochester, MI, USA
??How to get safe constant 12V??
Hello,
I finally received my fog lamps (Hella FF100 kit). The kit comes with a harness, relay, and switch – pretty much you don't need anything else. The installation assumes that you splice into low beam wire so you can turn the lamps on/off only when you have your low beams on. I think it's standard, right?
However my initial thought was to have the fogs completely independent from either low or high or corner lights.
I would appreciate if you guys could help me on the questions I am struggling on right now…
1.Can I connect the wire (which is supposed to be spliced into low beam wire) to constant 12V to do what I was thinking of?
2.If I can is it SAFE to have 12V constantly on the relay? It's 12v 30A relay (two connectors for the line, ground and activator (?)). Of course I will have a 20A fuse between battery and the relay.
3.Where into should I splice the wire to get 12V constant? Can I just connect it to the main power supply line that is going to the relay? Shorten two connectors on the relay maybe?
Is there better approach for doing this?
Thanks in advance,
Alex.
I finally received my fog lamps (Hella FF100 kit). The kit comes with a harness, relay, and switch – pretty much you don't need anything else. The installation assumes that you splice into low beam wire so you can turn the lamps on/off only when you have your low beams on. I think it's standard, right?
However my initial thought was to have the fogs completely independent from either low or high or corner lights.
I would appreciate if you guys could help me on the questions I am struggling on right now…
1.Can I connect the wire (which is supposed to be spliced into low beam wire) to constant 12V to do what I was thinking of?
2.If I can is it SAFE to have 12V constantly on the relay? It's 12v 30A relay (two connectors for the line, ground and activator (?)). Of course I will have a 20A fuse between battery and the relay.
3.Where into should I splice the wire to get 12V constant? Can I just connect it to the main power supply line that is going to the relay? Shorten two connectors on the relay maybe?
Is there better approach for doing this?
Thanks in advance,
Alex.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 934
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From: Covington, GA
There should be no problem with running a small gauge wire(16-18 awg) either directly from the battery or from an "always on" location in your fuse block to a switch in the cab. Run another small guage wire from the switch to the coil of the relay mounted in the engine compartment. Then run a larger gauge wire (10 awg is good for 30 amps) from the battery to one of the relay contacts, and from the other contact to your fogs.
Also, be sure to fuse any line that you run from the battery.
Good Luck!
Also, be sure to fuse any line that you run from the battery.
Good Luck!
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Rochester, MI, USA
Thanks
Robdude30,
Thanks!
Sorry, I am kind of confused here
I do have a complete harness so I'd like to avoid running any additional wires...
I undersatnd that it would be better to post the diagram here, but I could do it tomorrow only...
If you don't see any problem would not it be simplier to just shorten two terminals on the relay: main power and the "activator"?
In that case i could use the harness with no other modifications.
Any one else, please?
Alex.
Thanks!
Sorry, I am kind of confused here
I do have a complete harness so I'd like to avoid running any additional wires...
I undersatnd that it would be better to post the diagram here, but I could do it tomorrow only...
If you don't see any problem would not it be simplier to just shorten two terminals on the relay: main power and the "activator"?
In that case i could use the harness with no other modifications.
Any one else, please?
Alex.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 205
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From: Rochester, MI, USA
diagram
Hi,
Actually the diagram is pretty much like in this thread
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...&threadid=2913
Alex.
Actually the diagram is pretty much like in this thread
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...&threadid=2913
Alex.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: Covington, GA
Yeah, that'll work just fine. Didn't realize that you had the harness. Looking at the diagram in that other thread, you can hook up the red wire that is labeled "Fog lights - Low Beam" to an always hot wire in the fuse box or directly to the battery with an inline fuse. This will allow you to turn on the foglights anytime.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 243
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From: Palm Beach County, FL
I see alot of talk (and confusion) here about wiring relays.
Let's go over this again.
Relays are like "remote controlled" switches.
They are used is to switch high current loads or circuits with a relatively low current circuit.
They have contacts used for the actual switching and a coil used to actuate the contacts.
They are rated both for the coil voltage required and contact current capability.
GENERALLY SPEAKING FOR AUTOMOTIVE USE...
The coil voltage is of course 12vdc and the contacts are rated for 20-30 amps (also at 12 volts).
The coils typically draw less than 1/2 amp so all that is required is 24 ga. wire! This is smaller than most of the wiring in our trucks. Larger gauge is OK but not required.
Connect the coil terminals between ground and the +12 vdc circuit you want to activate it with. This can be the LOW beam wire or just about ANY switch connected to +12vdc. A 1.0 amp fuse is all that is needed for the coil circuit.
The contact circuit wiring depends on the load. Here you will need to refer to the manufacturers suggested set-up or use Ohm's Law and a wire-type table to determine the proper sizes.
A good design rule is to use 1.5 - 2.0 times the specified values for your components. By that I mean if you have a 10 amp load use a 15 amp fuse, etc.
Wire resistance also plays a role here too but should not be a major issue given the lenghts used to wire accessories within our vehicles.
Incandescent lamps have what is called "cold rush" current at start-up. They require more current that their wattage would suggest when first turned on.
XLT_D
.
Let's go over this again.
Relays are like "remote controlled" switches.
They are used is to switch high current loads or circuits with a relatively low current circuit.
They have contacts used for the actual switching and a coil used to actuate the contacts.
They are rated both for the coil voltage required and contact current capability.
GENERALLY SPEAKING FOR AUTOMOTIVE USE...
The coil voltage is of course 12vdc and the contacts are rated for 20-30 amps (also at 12 volts).
The coils typically draw less than 1/2 amp so all that is required is 24 ga. wire! This is smaller than most of the wiring in our trucks. Larger gauge is OK but not required.
Connect the coil terminals between ground and the +12 vdc circuit you want to activate it with. This can be the LOW beam wire or just about ANY switch connected to +12vdc. A 1.0 amp fuse is all that is needed for the coil circuit.
The contact circuit wiring depends on the load. Here you will need to refer to the manufacturers suggested set-up or use Ohm's Law and a wire-type table to determine the proper sizes.
A good design rule is to use 1.5 - 2.0 times the specified values for your components. By that I mean if you have a 10 amp load use a 15 amp fuse, etc.
Wire resistance also plays a role here too but should not be a major issue given the lenghts used to wire accessories within our vehicles.
Incandescent lamps have what is called "cold rush" current at start-up. They require more current that their wattage would suggest when first turned on.
XLT_D
.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Rochester, MI, USA
Hello,
Super! Thanks a lot!
So I should be safe
I will connect the *low beam wire* to the battery through a fuse then.
I went yesterday to Autozone and bought some *stuff* to complete the wiring.
Hopefully I'll have a couple of hours on Thursday to install the fogs.
Alex.
Super! Thanks a lot!
So I should be safe
I will connect the *low beam wire* to the battery through a fuse then.
I went yesterday to Autozone and bought some *stuff* to complete the wiring.
Hopefully I'll have a couple of hours on Thursday to install the fogs.
Alex.
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 934
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From: Covington, GA
XceLenT Driver, the "low beam" wire he is referring to is labeled as such in the wiring diagram on that other thread. It is a power connection that goes through the switch for the relay coil. If he hooks it up to the trucks low beam wire, the fogs will turn on(with the switch supplied with the fog kit) only if the low beams are on. He had asked how to turn the fogs on regardless of the position of the headlight switch, thus the reason I told him to attach the wire labeled "low beam" directly to an always hot location.
