Window Switch 2007 SCAB
#1
10-27-2020, 12:31 PM
Window Switch 2007 SCAB
Saturday the 24th we took a leaf peeper drive and suddenly the passenger window was a "NoGo" no matter what. On Sunday I posted in a thread to make it easier for me to find a link when fixing switches again … or maybe wiring for all I knew then. I posted this on the 25th at https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...-switches.html On the 26th I posted my results. I post it again here as it was not a loss of power, it was a switch issue again. My wires appear to be perfectly fine as far as I could see in the rubber boots.
Me 10-25-20:
Well, just yesterday (10-24-20) on a drive, passenger door window stopped working again. It worked a time or two but suddenly it stopped between Warm Springs Mountain over look on 39 and Thomas Jefferson's public bath house down on 220. It got cold today, but will warm up tomorrow so I'm posting to this old thread to mark it and I'll check it all then. Between switches and wires? I have a '95 T-bird, a '01 Grand Marquis, a '08 GT and none of them have this happen, nor did three CVPI police cars I used up between 1998 & 2010 ... but I've removed & cleaned switches 2 or three times on this '07 pickup? I have replaced a motor twice, once in my '92 T-bird and once in the '95. Our old '85 T-bird we had for 23 years and over 160,xxx miles before selling it, never a hick-up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by glc:
Something to be said for wind-up windows.........
Me 10-26-20:
You right Sir!
I was worried my issue might be broken wires in the weather boots between doors & body after looking at videos on line, but I noticed most that had broken wires were 2008 or newer with a plug at the boot and involved SCREW cabs, mine's a SCAB. I did pull some of my boots loose to look, but found no wire issues. I noticed that my boots and harnesses did NOT have the connectors at the boots. I didn't want to stress the wires too much looking for a flaws that might not be there, so after a few "look-see"s, I stopped. I slowly opened & closed doors looking for signs of pinching but all looked OK. I don't know haow the boots are routed on a SCREW except in the videos.
I took the front door switches out several years ago and cleaned them because operation was sporadic, I put them together dry then. Maybe 2 years ago I had another issue and did them again, was build up on the lock out switch then as I recall. Well, that time I cleaned them all in both front doors and lubed them with "NO-OX-ID A-Special" grease that was recommended for switch contacts.
Today (10-26-20) I tested every switch in every position, down & up. Nothing would get the passenger frt door glass down, and I found the right rear mini door glass would only come down with the driver's master switch. I went ahead and pulled all four switch panels out and went into my shop for light & clean work area. I found some contacts a little bit smudged, that right side mini door's switch had some minor smudge, but the driver's door master switch and the passenger door switch looked like they had black greasy messes on the contacts. I cleaned all the contacts after taking them all apart, cleaned the grease off too using Wear-ever Brake Clean spray and some clean blue Scott toweling, let dry, removed all signs of deposits, measured all the see-saw like contacts and adjusted the same, put the switches back together dry this time, just liker FOMOCO did, everything working 100%.
I also showed "Wife Unit" that pressing on the switch does NOT increase contact, just stresses the plastic housings. The pressure on the contacts is exerted by the sprung plungers in the rockers only. Either they work or they don't.
Another thing, after this if ever I am away from home and have a failure short of a motor dying, I can see ways to fix or at least get a "stuck while down" glass up either by cleaning contacts in a parking lot or using a jumper wire set.
Me 10-25-20:
Well, just yesterday (10-24-20) on a drive, passenger door window stopped working again. It worked a time or two but suddenly it stopped between Warm Springs Mountain over look on 39 and Thomas Jefferson's public bath house down on 220. It got cold today, but will warm up tomorrow so I'm posting to this old thread to mark it and I'll check it all then. Between switches and wires? I have a '95 T-bird, a '01 Grand Marquis, a '08 GT and none of them have this happen, nor did three CVPI police cars I used up between 1998 & 2010 ... but I've removed & cleaned switches 2 or three times on this '07 pickup? I have replaced a motor twice, once in my '92 T-bird and once in the '95. Our old '85 T-bird we had for 23 years and over 160,xxx miles before selling it, never a hick-up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by glc:
Something to be said for wind-up windows.........
Me 10-26-20:
You right Sir!
I was worried my issue might be broken wires in the weather boots between doors & body after looking at videos on line, but I noticed most that had broken wires were 2008 or newer with a plug at the boot and involved SCREW cabs, mine's a SCAB. I did pull some of my boots loose to look, but found no wire issues. I noticed that my boots and harnesses did NOT have the connectors at the boots. I didn't want to stress the wires too much looking for a flaws that might not be there, so after a few "look-see"s, I stopped. I slowly opened & closed doors looking for signs of pinching but all looked OK. I don't know haow the boots are routed on a SCREW except in the videos.
I took the front door switches out several years ago and cleaned them because operation was sporadic, I put them together dry then. Maybe 2 years ago I had another issue and did them again, was build up on the lock out switch then as I recall. Well, that time I cleaned them all in both front doors and lubed them with "NO-OX-ID A-Special" grease that was recommended for switch contacts.
Today (10-26-20) I tested every switch in every position, down & up. Nothing would get the passenger frt door glass down, and I found the right rear mini door glass would only come down with the driver's master switch. I went ahead and pulled all four switch panels out and went into my shop for light & clean work area. I found some contacts a little bit smudged, that right side mini door's switch had some minor smudge, but the driver's door master switch and the passenger door switch looked like they had black greasy messes on the contacts. I cleaned all the contacts after taking them all apart, cleaned the grease off too using Wear-ever Brake Clean spray and some clean blue Scott toweling, let dry, removed all signs of deposits, measured all the see-saw like contacts and adjusted the same, put the switches back together dry this time, just liker FOMOCO did, everything working 100%.
I also showed "Wife Unit" that pressing on the switch does NOT increase contact, just stresses the plastic housings. The pressure on the contacts is exerted by the sprung plungers in the rockers only. Either they work or they don't.
Another thing, after this if ever I am away from home and have a failure short of a motor dying, I can see ways to fix or at least get a "stuck while down" glass up either by cleaning contacts in a parking lot or using a jumper wire set.
Last edited by tbear853; 10-27-2020 at 12:38 PM.
#2
10-28-2020, 11:41 PM
Nothing new really, just saying after thoroughly going through the wiring diagrams, I do have a better understanding of how those switches work with each other (master vs door switches) and I figure the overhead rear window slider and moon roof switches are basically the same, but then they get very little use. I keep wondering why my other FOMOCOs with the same type of switches do not give the headaches as the F-150, I guess they just use less current thus are easier on the switch contacts.
Those on my '01 Mercury go really slow, but so did the ones in 3 police cars ('98, '00, '06 CVPIs) so maybe that's the result of lower effective gearing, like shorter arms, etc. .... where as the '95 Thunderbird and the '92 I sold were really fast moving glass with the same motors used, Even my '85 T-bird that we had for 23 years before selling had faster window action, but I guess it too had lighter glass.
Those on my '01 Mercury go really slow, but so did the ones in 3 police cars ('98, '00, '06 CVPIs) so maybe that's the result of lower effective gearing, like shorter arms, etc. .... where as the '95 Thunderbird and the '92 I sold were really fast moving glass with the same motors used, Even my '85 T-bird that we had for 23 years before selling had faster window action, but I guess it too had lighter glass.