I've been browsing through the forum to try and see if anyone else has ran into this issue with no luck...

I have a 2007 F150 SuperCrew

All of the passenger power window switches are not functioning. They act like the window lock from the driver's door is engaged in that I can control the all the windows from the driver's door, but I can' control any of them from any of the passenger doors.

I replaced the switch cluster on the driver's door thinking the window lock may have been bad and my driver window switch was malfunctioning. This didn't help. When my running lights/headlights are on, the window switches don't illuminate.

Where all of the passenger switches quit working at once, I was initially thinking a fuse must have gone out, but I haven't been able to find anything regarding a fuse for the power windows. The only thing listed is a 30 amp breaker in position 401.

If anyone has insight on any of this I would appreciate it!

AC

 

My SWAG is a broken yellow with light green stripe wire in the rubber boot from the driver's door to the a-pillar.

Check for + VDC on the yellow with light green stripe wire in the driver's kick panel, where the rubber boot is at ( on the inside ) when the window lock is off and the key is in the run or asscy position.

BTW : The lights on the other switches illuminate when the window lock is off, not with the headlamps / parking lamps on the 2004 and newer MY F150.

If you pull the passenger side switch and check for + VDC on the yellow with light green stripe wire I would suspect it is zero volts.

 

I am having the exact same problem, plus, Power Fold Mirrors quit at the same time. Did you get the problem solved acphoto? You are right SSCULLY, no power at the passenger side switch.

 

look at this if you have this switch.
http://www.f150forum.com/attachments...dow-switch.jpg

 

I found the problem today. 3 broken wires in the boot between the drivers door and the cab just below the A pillar. 1 was the yellow w/green tracer (as stated by SSCULLY), that powers the passenger windows. 1 (green or purple), powers the power fold mirrors, and the other supplies power to the puddle lamps I think. I hope this will help somebody else solve and repair their problems.

 

Make sure the new connections are inside the door and the door jam, NOT IN THE BOOT! Run new wires thur the boot. Connections don't flex!

 

Good idea! (but I never thought to do it). It would have been easier too! I WILL next time.

 

This was a great post because I think many ford owners have the same trouble GOOD CATCH YALL (OKESTONE)

 

So that fixed your problem because I have same problem on my 2006 Ford F-150 traied many things

 

Yes, that fixed the problem!

 

Well, just yesterday on a drive, passenger door window stopped working again. It worked a time or two but suddenly it stopped between Warm Springs Mountain over look on 39 and Thomas Jefferson's public bath house down on 220. It got cold today, but will warm up tomorrow so I'm posting to this old thread to mark it and I'll check it all then. Between switches and wires? I have a '95 T-bird, a '01 Grand Marquis, a '08 GT and none of them have this happen, nor did three CVPI police cars I used up between 1998 & 2010 ... but I've removed & cleaned switches 2 or three times on this '07 pickup? I have replaced a motor twice, once in my '92 T-bird and once in the '95. Our old '85 T-bird we had for 23 years and over 160,xxx miles before selling it, never a hick-up.

 

Something to be said for wind-up windows.........

 

You right Sir!

I was worried my issue might be broken wires in the weather boots between doors & body after looking at videos on line, but I noticed most that had broken wires were 2008 or newer with a plug at the boot and involved SCREW cabs, mine's a SCAB. I did pull some of my boots loose to look, but found no wire issues. I noticed that my boots and harnesses did NOT have the connectors at the boots. I didn't want to stress the wires too much looking for a flaws that might not be there, so after a few "look-see"s, I stopped. I slowly opened & closed doors looking for signs of pinching but all looked OK. I don't know haow the boots are routed on a SCREW except in the videos.

I took the front door switches out several years ago and cleaned them because operation was sporadic, I put them together dry then. Maybe 2 years ago I had another issue and did them again, was build up on the lock out switch then as I recall. Well, that time I cleaned them all in both front doors and lubed them with "NO-OX-ID A-Special" grease that was recommended for switch contacts.

Today I tested every switch in every position, down & up. Nothing would get the passenger frt door glass down, and I found the right rear mini door glass would only come down with the driver's master switch. I went ahead and pulled all four switch panels out and went into my shop for light & clean work area. I found some contacts a little bit smudged, that right side mini door's switch had some minor smudge, but the driver's door master switch and the passenger door switch looked like they had black greasy messes on the contacts. I cleaned all the contacts after taking them all apart, cleaned the grease off too using Wear-ever Brake Clean spray and some clean blue Scott toweling, let dry, removed all signs of deposits, measured all the see-saw like contacts and adjusted the same, put the switches back together dry this time, just liker FOMOCO did, everything working 100%.

I also showed "Wife Unit" that pressing on the switch does NOT increase contact, just stresses the plastic housings. The pressure on the contacts is exerted by the sprung plungers in the rockers only. Either they work or they don't.

Another thing, after this if ever I am away from home and have a failure short of a motor dying, I can see ways to fix or at least get a "stuck while down" glass up either by cleaning contacts in a parking lot or using a jumper wire set.