Recently bought a 2006 Mark LT. Browsing on here I saw the common problem with the FPDM, and sure enough mine was corroded and cracked, although running fine. Today I replaced it along with the fuel filter and now I'm getting no fuel.

I checked the reset and it was ok. I saw on here that fuel pump relay fuse was 09, but the Lincoln's must be different because that one is not used. The only one I can find that remotely has to due with fuel is 34-fuel injectors and PCM power, but it ohms good.

I even plugged the old FPDM in that was working minutes ago, still no joy. HELP! Any suggestions?

 

Do you hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you turn the key on? Check the fuel pump relay itself.

 

It seems I hear it but no fuel comes out of fuel filter when cycling key. How can relay be checked?

 

Found this on another thread. Out to the garage:

JEEBUS20 JEEBUS20 is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 51
here you go...
i really hope this helps. keep us posted



1. Check the circuits of the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) to narrow down the cause of the problem. The FPDM is located at the rear of the vehicle on the frame rail on the driver's side of the vehicle, behind the rear axle.

2. The White wire at FPDM pin 5 should show battery voltage whenever the ignition key is on, from the fuel pump relay, through the inertia switch.

3. The Black/Orange wire at FPDM pin 3 is a dedicated ground for the FPDM, grounding to the frame at G300, near the FPDM.

4. The Pink/Black wire at FPDM pin 4 is power out of the FPDM feeding the fuel pump. This circuit should show battery voltage whenever the key is in the run position.

5. The Light Green/Yellow wire at FPDM pin 2 is the fuel pump ground circuit. This circuit is duty cycled with a ground signal from the FPDM based on the command from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Back probing this circuit with a jumper wire and grounding it should result in 70+ PSI of fuel pressure if there is power to the fuel pump and the pump is good.

6. The Brown/Orange wire at FPDM pin 6 is the command signal sent from the PCM to the FPDM. This is a duty-cycled signal, with the PCM supplying a duty-cycle between 5% and 50% when it is commanding the FPDM to run the pump, and a 75% duty-cycle when it is commanding the FPDM to shut the pump off. If the duty-cycle is commanded between 5% and 50%, there should be exactly double that amount of ground to the fuel pump on the Light Green/Yellow wire. For instance, if the duty cycle on the Brown/Orange wire is 20%, this would be a command for the FPDM to supply a 40% ground to the pump, and if the duty cycle on the Brown/Orange wire is 50%, this would be a command for the FPDM to supply a 100% ground to the pump.

7. The Light Blue/Red wire at FPDM pin 1 is a feedback signal sent from the FPDM back to the PCM. This is also a duty cycle signal, with the duty cycled at 50% when everything is OK, and changing to a 25% or 75% duty cycle if the FPDM is seeing a problem.
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If your fpdm was cracked I'd bet your wires going to it are suspect also. Check for broken wires and a bad connection.

 

Wires look great. It was running perfect until I messed with it.

Pwr and ground wires check....getting aggravated

 

If you are sure you are hearing it run but no fuel is flowing and you are POSITIVE the FPDM is good, the pump itself is now suspect.

 

Well, there is power and ground to the FPDM (bat volts registers between white and black wires on harness plug with key on), so I think the relay, reset and fuse must be good. It's difficult to check if power is coming from the FPDM to the pump. I hate to compromise the wiring by stripping the insulation to check the pink/black wire for power to the pump....but I may have to.

After the kids are in bed I'll have the wife help me by cycling the key (it's hard to tell for sure that the pump is running from the seat with the chime and all). That way I can lay under the tank while she cycles the key.

I suppose the new FDPM could be faulty. My check for that was to plug the old one back in. It could have been compromised during the removal, I guess...

I don't know how I could have ruined the fuel pump during this process. Like I said the pickup was running perfectly with no issues. I was just changing the FDPM out as a preventative measure. Makes me wish I would have left the corroded and cracked one alone!

Meanwhile another day with no wheels

It's a drag with the time difference, in the evenings when everyone is asleep-I have to wait till morning for responses.

 

Disconnecting the FPDM and jumping from the White wire to the Pink/Black wire on the connector (jump pins 4 & 5) should cause the fuel pump to run (flat out, but that's okay fer the purposes of testing). Make up and use a FUSED jumper ( ~ 20 Amps ) for safety. (Ensure you still have a ground path to the pump - jump pins 2 & 3)

If it starts, it's the FPDM ( units have been known to be DOA - especially if it's a Dorman POS ).

If it doesn't start - yer looking at a fuel pump, reckon. Or harness problem to the pump. Not much else left.

Good luck
MGD

 

My wire colors do not match up. I have (in order):
#1. white
#2. pink/black
#3. org (no stripe)
#4. pink/blue
#5. black/yellow
#6. brown/white.

I don't know how the pin numbers should go, I would assume from one side of the plug to the other. But regardless, they don't match up at all. On mine the white wire is on the end, and the above says it's pin 5 (don't know how pin 5 of 6 would be on the end). I'm pretty sure the black/yellow I have is the ground (which is supposed to be black/orange) because I have bat voltage between it and the white wire, but it's supposed to be on pin 3 and it's 2ond from the end, so that doesn't match up either. If you start with the white wire (#1) and go across the plug my black/yellow ground would be #5.

I do have the pink/black, but nothing remotely close to green/yellow for fuel pump ground. I don't want to mistakenly jumper one of the wires to the PCM and short it out or something, so I'm kind of stuck. I hate to assume that my new FPDM is no good and my old one somehow quit working as a result of my removing it and just go spend an additional $180 for another. They won't take them back after they are plugged in......

I thought maybe the Mark LT had a different set up and that's why the wire colors didn't match up (the fuses didn't either). But I asked the ford parts man and he said the same FPDM fits the Mark and the F150.

Since my colors don't match up can anyone tell me which pin positions are where on the plug?

 

Hmmm....found this. Looks like the pin numbers are anything but logical. I'll see if I can decipher it now...

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/je...2_pin_outs.pdf

 

I was just trying to convert your list to the pin out.
- It is never a good idea to assume pin numbers are in sequence.

This one is really messed up, as pin # 4 & #2 to the fuel pump are shielded to ground and need to be spaced in the connector.

The fuel pump relay is not serviceable, it does not show on the front of the fuel panel in the cab of the truck.
- Fuse #9 is the 20A for the fuel pump driver module. That could be where you got number 9 from.

If you have cycled the truck enough times without the engine starting, the fuel pump might not run.

If you have a crank no start, few pin point tests ( instead of assuming ).

1. Is PATS completing ?
Turn key from off to on position, do no start.
Does the PATS light go out ?

2. How do you know you are not getting fuel ?

Is it a crank no start ?

Tests :

Meter + FPDM to - FPDM Do you have mroe than 10 VDC ?
no - meter + FPDM to ground : more than 10 VDC ?
- Check / replace Fuse
yes - Install new FPDM

If a new FPDM does not cure the problem, time to check for fuel pressure and checking the throttle position sensor.

when you removed the FPDM, did you hold the connector hood or did you grab the wires and press the release tab ?

Might be best to ID the actual symptom(s), instead of making assumptions ( eg : no fuel ).
- Is it no fuel due to fuel pressure test or assuming that there is no fuel due to having a crank no start.

 

Thanks sscully. Sorry, I should have been more specific. Crank no start and I know no fuel because I am changing the filter at the same time, and with the line off the filter there is no gas when cycling the key.

Ya, for those interested the pin out is (starting opposite the side of the white power wire):

2
3
1
6
4
5 (white)

1&6, the small wires in the middle go to the PCM, so not a good idea to jumper them (afraid of shorting the PCM)

I did as MGD suggested, used a fused jumper between 4&5 and jumped across 2&3. (Notice from above those are the 2 on each edge of the plug. They are heavier wires). Then she started right up! So I concluded that disturbing the old corroded FPDM must have broken it and, as MGD theorized, my Doorman was dead out of the box. All the parts stores seem to carry Doorman (at least NAPA and Autozone). The NAPA guy said that NAPA owns Doorman and it's great, trouble free stuff. Who knows, maybe I got a chinese knock off. I got it for $55 on Amazon. The parts store ones were $110. So my dilemma was to get another Doorman for $110 or one from the Ford dealer for $179. And of course nobody will let you return one. It was funny, the NAPA guy said it had a lifetime warrantee, but in the next breath said once it's been plugged in I can't return it! Go figure.

I decided not to risk another Doorman. Plugged in the new Ford one and it runs good!!

BTW, I guess the Lincoln Mark LT has a different wiring harness. The colors do not match up, and as I said above there is no 09 fuse. After 09 in the manual says "not used". I never did find the right fuse, I just checked them all with an ohm meter and made sure none were blown. I did verify from the Ford parts man that the FPDM is the same for the Mark and the F150.

Thanks to all the guys on here for the help, it's nice to have someone to bounce stuff off of.

 

Hi.

Very glad you got it sorted. Good work! And thanks fer bringing the thread to closure - much appreciated!

Just FYI - Rockauto.com also sells the FPDM for less. Have not priced Tasca, but I believe they do too. Issue in this case is shipping time, I reckon. Acquiring a good spare at some point may be prudent.

Make sure you installed the standoffs to minimize corrosion failure. Give the whole area a good cleaning and shoot the thing with some Fluid Film or other good moisture barrier.

Cheers!


MGD

 

Ya, I ordered the first FDPM while it was still running. Didn't even install it for a month! So I was trying to be prepared.... Now to see if Amazon will take the defective one back.

I wire brushed and primed/painted the crossmember and used the stand offs-so I HOPE I won't ever need another FPDM.