2001 F150 transciever.

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Old 12-04-2012, 05:58 AM
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2001 F150 transciever.

Hello all,

I believe my transciever in the Passive Anti Theft System is bad in my truck.

It will turn over with ease but at times will not start at all. Then thirty minutes later it will start immediately.

I have several questions and would appreciate any advice because I simply cannot pay somone $400.00 to replace it.

1. Does this require any programming or is it plug and play?

2. Can anyone point me to a good work description for changing the transciever?

3. What if any special tools will I need to do this as I have alot of tools as I am an industrial mechanic and was wondering if I will need any special tools?

4. What should I expect to pay for the part, and where can i get it from?

Any other advice on changing this would be appreciated. I am about to head to work so I may not be able to say thank you immediately, but please understand I really appreciate any help I can get.

Jerry Sanchez
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:52 AM
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Jerry, I moved your post to the Electrical forum. You should get better answers here.

- Jack
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:19 PM
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Start with, what diagnoses did you do to get to the point the PATS transceiver is bad ?

The reason I ask, is there a few other things that could be causing a crank no start ( if that is what you are getting ).

1. Another RFID tag too close to the keys
This includes store fobs or items like the mobil speed pass.

2. When you have the issue, did you hear the fuel pump run ?
I ask, my 2001 had a few "hard starts" that were caused by a fuel pump relay on the way out. Few diagnoses steps got me to changing out the fuel pump relay with the correctly functioning Trailer Tow adapter relay ( 1 member did swap them, only to find out his trailer tow relay was also bad when he swapped in a 3rd one ).

Might want to check that your issue is diagnosed correctly.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...e-my-cure.html
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:31 PM
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It's a PATS or related condition if the THEFT light rapid-flashes when the ignition switch is first turned to RUN from OFF.

However, if you have a digital odometer that reads "-------", it's a PCM power problem, not PATS.

The key ring transceiver is a simple mechanical swap. No special tools or equipment is needed.
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:00 PM
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The reason I think it is the PATS transciever is two fold.
1. I took it to the garage and they put the computer on it and that is what they said.
2. I read on this forum that if the theft light flashes 13 times that means the transciever is bad. When I turn the key over and it starts instantly the light does not flash at all it remains solidly lit. When I turn the key on and it flashes repeatedly it will not fire at all but will turn over fine.

I am not sure what the fuel pump sounds like.

I do have odometer issues only in the sense that it is intermittannly not lit. There is no ----------- or numbers(by the way when the numbers do shine they read 251000.0+) and the odometer not shining is not really associated with the truck not starting as I have been driving down the road and the odometer will not be shining.

Jack and Janet thank you for reposting this in the appropriate location.

SScully and Projectsho89 Thank you so much for your help.

So what I am understanding is this does not require progamming and I can locate a work description in the owners manual. Is that correct?
 
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:48 PM
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If the garage put a WDS or NGS on the system, did they tell you if it was B2103 or B1232 DTC ?
- These are the 2 DTC body codes that would indicate bad transceiver ( or a few other things ).

The flashing of the theft light while cranking is not a code. At least in the service manual, 419-01 that I have, search on flash & fault code = did not turn up.
You would get the same flashing for a non programmed key.

The theft light being on after starting correctly the possible sources show as the instrument cluster and the theft indicator.
- Considering the new info that you are having an instrument cluster issue, I think that would be the logical place to start.

You will need the shop to use the WDS / NGS to issue a THEFT LMP to ON test and see if it works correctly.
The next step in that section is to check the resistance of the LED. If it tests good, a new cluster is needed, if not a new theft LED needs to be installed.

The R&R info would be in the service manual, not the owners manual.
 



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