2012 f150 fx4 rear slider problems

  #1  
Old 07-27-2012, 10:23 AM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2012 f150 fx4 rear slider problems

okay so my truck is about 7 months old and with in the past month the back slider window has being giving me issues!

i am able to open the window fully, but when i go to close it, it doesn't close.

if i press the switch again to open it when its fully closed, the dome lights dim (meaning the motor is recieving power.

i brought it to the ford dealer and he first said its the motor, okay, so he puts a new one in .. still the same issues.

he looks at the smart junction box (SJB) at the front passenger side and see i have a aftermarket viper 5901 with GPS tracker and says OHH YOU CANT HAVE THAT, YOU CANT INSTALL SECURITY SYSTEM IN THE NEW TRUCKS AND IT WILL VOID THE WARRETY!

long story short he says he tested the wire to the mortor and says he has power but no amperage, how is that possible if the motor is able to push the window open but not close it?

when i asked him about the switch if he chagned it or checked it he gave me a run around saying the SJB box has to be replaced you messed up your truck ...blah blah blah .... ughhhh

is there any way i can test the switch myself to see if it is operating properly?

-----------------

in addition, if i fiddle around with the switch (open <-> close repeat) the window does eventualy close its self with out any force from me. that why i suspect its the switch but the ford tech wouldn't answer me if the switch was changed he kept going back to the changing the SJB!!!!

any help would be greatly apprichiated!
 
  #2  
Old 07-27-2012, 11:55 AM
SSCULLY's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Sorry you have a jerk for a dealer.

The motor, with the switch in the closed position, has + VDC but no current ( draw ? ) would mean the motor is bad.
Under no load, a circuit with voltage would have minimal current on it ( mA ). When the motor is operational is when you would see current draw.

Think of it this way, you pay for electricity used at your house ( aside from a meter charge ).
If you have nothing plugged in, you have no usage ( and no bill for the usage ).
How much current is at those unused outlets in this case ?

The overhead console is a single item ( for read slider and roof panel if equiped ).

If you pull it out, check for + VDC on the Yellow w/ Orange stripe wire and ground on the Violet w/ brown stripe wire when the switch is pressed in the closed position.
Reverse polarity is open ( + VDC on the Violet w/ brown & ground on Yellow w/ Orange ).

Supposition, but you might be seeing a similar case that the 04-08 MY see with the power window switch for the driver's side window, contacts get carboned up and it will only work in one direction.

If you can get the switch apart, to check the contacts would be a good place to start. The how to forum has a thread on the driver's side switch that might be of use to you.

When you hear hooves, think horses not zebras....
I don't think the BCM is a logical place to start either, you have the correct thought process in my mind.
BTW - the SJB was on the 09-10 MY, 11+ Ford changed the name to BCM and the function of it is different from the SJB. Your dealer really needs to get the staff trained.
If a communications equipment salesman knows this stuff, I would suspect the dealer mechanic to know at least the same amount...
 
  #3  
Old 07-27-2012, 08:03 PM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thank you so much for you prompt response!!

i tested the wires you stated and will post pictures of the results

but something i noticed that when i probed the wires and pushed down into the harness and tried to close the window it actually activated the window ... so i may be the pins in the harness that are loose.

how exactly do i confirm its the switch thats is defective?

please list the sequence and wires to prob when pushing the open switch / closed switch

thanks again!!!
 
  #4  
Old 08-02-2012, 06:41 AM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
help, please
 
  #5  
Old 08-02-2012, 07:38 AM
SSCULLY's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
Did you have + VDC on the close side of the switch when pressing the button to the close position ?
 
  #6  
Old 08-02-2012, 08:33 PM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Negattive with +on yellow and -on pruple

When press closed it goes to zero. When i push open it goes to 10v

For some reason. The window opens with out a hith. It just wouldnt close

After i probed and tested the voltage like u said the window closes when i press the switch to close it. The odd time it would but i try again later and it works

But now its doing the same thing. I don't get it
 

Last edited by fordgru; 08-02-2012 at 08:47 PM.
  #7  
Old 08-02-2012, 11:19 PM
SSCULLY's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor

Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 7 Posts
If you get 0 VDC when you try to close it, that is the switch is no good ( pending your testing, but it sounds correct ).

Did you try to take the switch apart and check the contacts like the window switch ?
 
  #8  
Old 08-02-2012, 11:38 PM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm not sure how to disassmble the switch to try and clean it.

What i did try and seems to work everytime is if i apply pressure on the gixed part of the switch and pull down to close the window the window closes so it has to be the contacts in the switch arnt meeting.

Also i lowered my back seats and checked the motor and notice it was hot yo touch. Not burning but overly warm is this notmal? The dealer did replace this part
 
  #9  
Old 08-25-2012, 07:14 PM
fordgru's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Any help?

Still having issues with this window
 
  #10  
Old 09-05-2012, 11:18 PM
a2pfunk's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can't get as technical as the posts above, but I can tell you that after about a month, my rear slider started giving me problems. At first, it would open and then not close unless I hit the button 2 or 3 times. Then it would open but not close unless I played with the switch for about 30 seconds. Eventually, the ditch did nothing. I took it in and the dealership simply said they tested the switch, found it to be defective, and replaced it. Works fine now. I wonder if this is a common problem.

I have to admit the power slider is probably a pretty dumb/wasteful option. I had my '01 Screw and probably opened the (manual) rear slider about 20 total times. With the ower option I have probably surpassed that in 3 months.
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 2012 f150 fx4 rear slider problems



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:32 PM.