Once again I have an issue with my fuel gauge pegging "E" On a full tank.
the last time this happened Ford Bent me about $350 to replace the Fuel level sensor.

I was wondering if anybody has ever done it themselves? I found the part online, but I wasnt sure about if the procedure was a do it yourself type of job.
I have a 2007 FX4 Crew Cab.
Thanks!

 

If you have the ability to lower the tank or lift the bed, then it's pretty easy after that. Click my black Bronco in my signature & read the captions in the '90-96 Fuel System album - yours is basically the same.

Running the tank low before you start makes it a LOT easier to drop the tank, or pressure-washing the underside of the bed makes it easier to unbolt it.

 

I replaced the sensor on my previous 2000 model f150 it was easy kind of! if your bed bolts are removable then remove them and the bed no need to drop the tank and easy to replace. Of course mine were rusted in place. Get it to as close to E then drop your tank I had a jack under mine to lower it. I didnt disconect the tank but had a enough room to remove the sensor 2 bolts and a harness if I remember corectly. Hope this helps.
Dave

 

yeah like steve said he replied while I was typing my reply

 

haha well im not sure where my fuel level is sitting, at any given moment. It doesnt fluctuate from working, to not working. Its just... not working. I just got my leave approved here in california, and of all times for it to go bad, its a day before my trip back to Nebraska. So im gonna have to just watch my trip odometer and kinda wing it. Then when I get back i'll replace it.

On another note, thanks for the replys. I lifted the truck up yesterday and looked at the job. I thought about removing the bed, but I thought that'd be a little more of a rough job to do than to just drop the tank. But I trust a fellow driver whos been there done that, than just my thoughts.

I cant believe ford charged $300 some odd dollars to do it the last time. And the part itself I found for only $50. Sometimes they depress me.

Finally! Somebody has pictures! Thats a big help.

 

Standard labor for drain & refill a gas tank is ~0.5hr
R&R a truck tank is ~1.5hr
R&R the pump assembly is ~0.5hr
R&R the sender is ~0.3hr

So if the part retails for $50, it probably lists for $80. And if your dealership charges $100/hr, that's ~$300 total. Remember that they also charge for shop supplies & disposal, so $300 sounds about right for a dealership. If you go to an independent shop, their labor rate might be closer to $80/hr.

When you do it, keep track of how much time it takes you, then multiply that by how much you earn per hour. That's how much you'd have lost if you did the job during your work hours. It'll probably be in the $500 range, meaning you'd save $200 paying the dealership to do it.

 

Hello Gents. So quick update.
So I was pondering around under my truck when I found a harness on the driver side, under the driver door. After inspecting it for a few minutes, I noticed a yellow wire was separated from the harness



So I ninja rigged it back together and just decided to delete the harness from the equation. I had no idea that it was for anything concerning my gauges. Im going to get it completely fixed when im back from Nebraska. But im working on time.



When in fact shortly after, I found out it was everything I needed to fix my problem.



I just dont understand why, Ford would ever put a harness where it is getting salt water, and all sorts of corroding grime all over the under body. You'd think they'd try to protect it a little more.
But who am I.
On a a better note, I received an Email from thepartsbin.com saying they were out of fuel level sensors, and I was getting refunded. So saves me the trouble.

Thank you all for your input!!
Yall are my heros.

And I understand what your saying about time and labor. Sometimes I wanna sit by the Mechanic and watch him. So I can be like " I didnt say take a Break"

 

It's actually Y/Wh, which is the fuel level circuit.The "harness" is the collection of wires bundled together & wrapped all over the vehicle, like a harness on horses. You didn't delete anything - you bypassed the connector with an overlaid wire. Those twist-on wire nuts are OK temporarily, but you'll need to splice the wires properly for a durable repair. Self-sealing heat-shrink tubing over solder would be best.The wires that go to things on the frame have to run along the frame - there's no practical/feasable way around it. And it's fine - if you notice, there are billions of vehicles rolling around (on- & OFF-road) all over the world with wiring down there. Yours just got snagged on something & pulled out.
Those numbers are from ~50 years ago. Now, they're about 5x that.

And you don't have to pay for breaks anyway - most shops charge book time (flat-rate).

 

I shall be more specific with my wordage in further posts lol.
As for quick repair thats all I was planning. Using wire nuts is just saying malfunction again.

Im noticing a couple other wires corroding out as that one did. Im thinking I should have the whole harness looked at just to be safe. A few of the wires seem rather brittle.

 

Glad to hear you got her figured out and your right I would get it all looked at to be safe.
Dave

 

Mine (2011 F-150) just recently started doing this. I was planning on buying a new sensor, but I'm gonna have to check my harness and see if it's the wire. It seems to be intermittent for me, so I'm guessing (hoping) it is a wire....Thanks for the pics, this may help with mine!

 

Cxx

 

I have problems with the fuel level... always show full
We change the level sensor but still the problem
We think that the problem is in the wiring harness outside the tank... It have like a transistor and maybe the current voltage is incorrect
Thanks for the help
Attached pic