Okay, I've got my lights mounted(1400's in the air dam, 520's behind the grill). The harness looks straightforward enough, but before I get started I have a couple questions.

1. One of the wires is supposed to connect to the positive wire of the parking lights, which seems pretty hard to get to. How do you get to it, and then which wire is the positive wire? Or, is there another, more conveniently located wire that I can use instead?

2. Should I just connect the wires to the battery as indicated in their schematic, or with 2 sets of lights, should I get another bus(I think that's what they're called). Recommendations?

3. There's a grommet that passes through the firewall. Is it that silver dollar sized piece of rubber a couple of inches above and to the left of the gas pedal? Mine has a pretty thick looking wire going through it already.

4. When do you suppose my wife will notice the new lights?

Thanks in advance to Mattbert and the rest of you.


clancy

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

Good purchase . A buddy of mine put int he 1400's... there one of hte only PIAA's I've never personally installed but he said his was cake. BTW, we'll both be installing lights this weekend! I'm putting three sets in my new F-150! WOOHOO! One set of 80 XT's, one set of 520's, and one set of 510's, many more to come... the 510's and 520's are going in the custom PIAA Airdam that they make for the 99-01 F-150's/Expeditions.

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">1. One of the wires is supposed to connect to the positive wire of the parking lights, which seems pretty hard to get to. How do you get to it, and then which wire is the positive wire? Or, is there another, more conveniently located wire that I can use instead?

To be honest with you I've never wired one up to the headlights, I went a different route. I'll kind of explain it to you, but you'll actually get pictures and so forth if you go here: http://bart.is-s.com/~explorers/madams/PIAA/piaas.html . Go to the section on "some have asked how I've run my wiring". Since I have so many lights, I ran a single 12-guage wire from my radio fuse to this fuse block, then every "switch" wire from each set of lights I ran to the fuse block so they were all independantly fused. This way if I wanted all the lights on but not the headlights, I could do that. This will also prevent them from being left on when the vehicle is not running, since the switch won't receive power unless the radio does. In my F-150 though I'm wiring up the 520's to the existing fogs using these instructions (copied from https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000864.html ).
You'd still have to use the PIAA harness and relay, then take the wire the goes from the relay to the switch (coming out of the relay in one direction you'd have the ground, then the wire going to the switch, then the wires going to the lights) and splice it into the fog factory fog light wiring. This way, it's still receiving the correct amount of power, still using the PIAA relay so you don't have to worry about frying any wiring, but just receiving the signal to be turned off or on from the main fog light switch! The only downside to this of course is that you couldn't have your brights and your fogs on at the same time, otherwise it would save bunches of time!

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">2. Should I just connect the wires to the battery as indicated in their schematic, or with 2 sets of lights, should I get another bus(I think that's what they're called). Recommendations?

I prefer to connect them directly to the battery. I have something like 10 devices (all the lights in front of my vehicle are connected to the battery, plus a 4-guage running to a fuse black in the back for the lights on the roof and in the rear bumper, the wire for the subwoofer, wire for the alarm, and a few other things here and there... LOTS Of wires! Unless your getting many many sets, I'd recommend just putting them directly on the battery, you won't be able to close the positive end battery cover, but that shouldn't matter...

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">3. There's a grommet that passes through the firewall. Is it that silver dollar sized piece of rubber a couple of inches above and to the left of the gas pedal? Mine has a pretty thick looking wire going through it already.

That's not a question, but I'll answer it anyways! That'd be a good grommet to use... I use a pen or something sharp to push a small hole through the grommet and feed the wires through (with a pen you can loop the wires at the end of the pen and feed it through, works pretty good I've found!)

Quote:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">4. When do you suppose my wife will notice the new lights?

Depends on when you let her, LOL j/k.


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Matt Adams
Littleton, CO
1994 Ford Explorer, highly modified ( http://bart.is-s.com/~explorers/madams/ )
2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 5.4L Auto w/ 3" dual exhaust, rhino lining, custom stereo, off-road and tow packages, and much much more! (no page yet)

 

Thanks - I knew you'd help out

clancy

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

You know, it still seems less complicated to hook up the system following PIAA's schematic. Now all I have to do is get at the parking lights. I think if I take off the headlight cover I'll be able to get to it. I think. Anyway, I assume that comes off easy enough w/ torx sockets. Is there some easy way to differentiate between the postive and negative wires on the parking light? It'll be a minor victory for me if I get these working, because I've never done a mod under the hood(superchip is technically inside the cab, right?).

BTW mattbert, what do you use those 80XT's for? Are they a lot brighter than the 520's? You can't use them on the road, can you?


Oh and FYI to anyone thinking about the fog's in the airdams, the PIAA mounting kit was too short for my 2001 by about 2 inches, so I couldn't use it. It's too bad because it's really sturdy. And last thing, the 520's fit nicely on that bar behind the grill. It's kind of tight back there, bigger lights wouldn't fit. I had to get a little drill running from my air compressor to get the drill w/ the bit and my hands all in there at the same time.

clancy

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

Clancy, you should know that Matt's an expert on this. I remember the first time he hooked up his lights only to find out late at night, I believe, that his truck wouldn't start. I guess this is a backhanded way of saying he knows what he's talking about.

 

ARGH!!! Why does everyone remember the bad stuff? LOL. Ok an explanation on that.
That was the first set of lights I ever installed, and they were Hellas. I had no clue on electricity or lighting or anything at the time, and Hellas are quite complex if you've never done anything like that before. Plus we got started at 10pm, and it was cold and dark until 3am when we got finished . Since then I've installed probably 15 sets of lights, all PIAA's, and now I can usually install a set in under 20-30 minutes, depending on how hard it is to get through the firewall.
Anyways, got my airdam installed tonight,ran into a few hitches that I hope to figure out tomorrow... like everything, this taught me lessons. Tonights lessons were as follows:
When you have about 80 assorted nuts, bolts, washers, etc. DON'T spill them on the driveway
DON'T start just before the sun goes down, and DONT start when you know it will be snowing in a few hours,a ssuming you'll do everything right and have it done "in no time".
Also,r ead the instructions through several times, I missed one key thing,w hich is why I may have to undo it and put it back on tomorrow, agh.

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Matt Adams
Littleton, CO
1994 Ford Explorer, highly modified ( http://bart.is-s.com/~explorers/madams/ )
2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 5.4L Auto w/ 3" dual exhaust, rhino lining, custom stereo, off-road and tow packages, and much much more! (no page yet)

 

Hey I know Matt's an expert. I just reread his first post and I think I understand now. I was just thinking that w/ 2 sets of lights I might not need to go to that effort. The only other lights I'll probably add are some brighter backup lights(I can't really see out the back of my truck at night w/ the smoked glass rear window of my truck cap).

Unfortunately, I've lost my window of available time, so I'll have to put this project aside for a few days.

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

Clancy,

You'll soon find that Matt is respected by everybody here. He has this great unforgettable way of writing about his adventures and mis-adventures in 4 wheeling and working on his truck.

 

Wow Im respected? LOL. Seriously, just to rub it in your face for bringing upt he Hellas thing... I just brokem y own personal record for installing a set of lights. Aside from mounting the light, I had the PIAA 520's wired up in my airdam in under 10 minutes. Although it was a bit easier since I didn't have to run through my firewall and mount a switch... there using the switch wire from the existing fog lights so that was a lot easier.

 

Well, I've finally got everything working. They really look pretty cool. Barely noticeable to most people, pretty obvious to most of you.

I ended up hooking into the switched wire for the radio, which worked out pretty well, but I blew one of those 5 amp fuses. I'll see if that becomes a problem. Matt, should I put in a in-line 2 amp fuse or something?

I still need to aim the lights. The fogs are okay. but anyone mounting lights behind the grill on that bar there should make sure they leave enough room to lean the lights forward a bit to get them back to level. I had to shim them on the back side of the mount. Oh, and those screw things that hold down the fan cover don't unscrew- I had to drill mine out.

Anyway, within a few days I'll put on some pic's of the truck and the lights. I think my cap looks pretty good too, with the yakima rack on top. The bedrug is great also. Thanks everyone for all your help. This is far and away the most fun I've had with any vehicle I've owned. I considered(for a minute)buying a Tundra, but seeing what everyone was doing on this site convinced to get a Ford.


clancy

BTW my wife still hasn't noticed the lights. I suspect she'll notice the interior switches first

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

I don't see why... you've already got it fused through the radio so it will blow out the radio fuse before anything else. I've heard of some people that use inline fuses but I don't really see the point on the lights, because they are already fused... no power goes through to the relay unless the radio is on, and if theres a power fault or something it will blow the radio fuse and not go past that to the relay, as is my understanding anyway.

Anyways, glad you got the lights installed, I hope they work out real good for you! I'm currently on a quest for aftermarket switches... trying to find ones that blend perfectly with the interior of my vehicle, I want everything to look smooth .

[This message has been edited by mattbert (edited 01-19-2001).]

 

Day late and a dollar short, but I just saw the post...
You can catch a park light wire right off the switch. Just pop the lower dash cover panel, and get the wires right below the headlight switch...

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My credentials? Yeah, they're right over there....

framed and hanging on the shade tree.

 

You should always put an inline fuse on anything you run, as close as possible to where you connect the wire to the power source.

Let's say you connect to the radio fuse, and by chance you connect to the "hot side" of the fuse (the side that has the power before it goes through the fuse). Now you run your wire to wherever. Couple months down the road this wire rubs through and shorts. What do you think will happen? It will most likely melt you fuse block and maybe even cause a fire. Why take a chance? No matter what you run, add a fuse to it. The $1 spent now could save you thousands in the future.

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Boss™

Ordered June 29th, 2000; took delivery Nov 28th, 2000: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver Supercab 4x4, Styleside, 5.4L, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Modifications:
"Protected by the Owner with his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers, Hyper-White bulbs, Pioneer DEH-8200R, Ventshades(not on back doors), Hood deflector.
Future Modifications
Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system

 

Apparently you are right and I am wrong... picked up my new set of PIAA's to find they now include inline fuses. I've still never had a problem with mine... but apparently PIAA agrees that its a good idea to have an inline fuse.

 

What size inline fuse woould you use?

Whenever I turn on the fogs, I keep blowing the 5 amp fuse that controls the diplay on stereo, and a few other dash electrics. Even if I fused the line from my PIAA switch that splices into my switched power line on the stereo, wouldn't that 5 amp fuse continue to blow(assuming I don't have a short somewhere)?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to change the driving lights and splice them into my highbeam wiring - it'll be more convenient. BTW which wire do I connect to(positive)? I know I can look it up but I thought someone might know off the top of their head. Thanks.

clancy

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2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

PIAA 520 driving lights behind grill
PIAA 1400 fogs in bumper intakes