I want to do a couple minor mods which would entail making a couple electrical splices/connections under the hood (mostly lighting - 18ga).

Before I start, I want to be sure I don't compromise the integrity of the wiring system in my truck - mostly to keep moisture and salt out.

I drive a tractor trailer, and we go through nightmares every winter with corroded splices and and light connections.

My initial thought is to use the crimp connectors with heat shrink ends, using dielectric grease on the exposed wire, and also using heat shrink tubing.

Just wondering if there is a better way, or if there are some type of weatherproof connectors around that I don't know about.

Also open to suggestions to do the connections right.

 

There's a product called "Performix Liquid Tape" that you can paint on electrical splices. Once it cures, it's very close to the original insulation in character. You can buy it either in a can with a brush in the lid or in a spray can. I prefer the brush on kind myself. It comes in colors, too. Overall, I think it's superior to shrink tube, but it could be used on top of shrink tube or the crimp connectors you talked about for extra protection.

You should be able to find it in automotive stores and I think Ace Hardware carries it too.

- Jack

 

Liquid Tape the way too go,it holds up better then the other stuff too keep water out.

 

Thanks for the replies guys - that's just the info I was looking for!

Will pick up some liquid tape tomorrow - maybe I'll find some other uses for it too.

 

Depending on the splice type I would use marine heat shrink.

This is a bit different than then stuff you find at Autozone, it has a sealant in it that fills the entire length of the heat shrink, and you can see a bulb at the end sealing the end of the heat shrink tube.

This is hard to use on inline or T-tap splices, but for regular cut splices it works well.

For inline type splices, the only way to go is with Liquid Electrical tape.

If you are concerned about the splices, I would say stay away from crimp type connections, and go with solder. Depending on the crimper used, these can be weak connections.
If you want to stick with crimp style connectors, the crimp pliers should have the point in them with a U on the other side, not the arc on both sides, or the point and V configuration.



I see a lot of people using the arc type crimpers, which don't seem to hold up that well ( crimp slot closest to the grip )


When using the ones with the point, orientation of the crimp terminal is important. The terminal will be a piece of metal rolled into a circle. The joint in the circle need to be on the U side of the crimp, where the point needs to be 180* from it, else the terminal will spread apart.

In the technical article section here is a 2 part write up on electrical accessory additions that describes the splices.

 

I always solder with shrink tube, for t taps i solder then use liquid tape let dry then wrap with 3m super 33 electrical tape. I f i need to use a crimp connector I use the type with heat shrink built in.

 

I realize now that making a solder connection would be best if I can get into proper position to do so.

If I do solder splices/connections, are there any type of connectors used, or are you simply twisting the wires together to then solder?

I've done some soldering in the past, but not with this type of wire (insulated) - will I be able to make solder connections without melting the insulation?

Picked up a can of liquid tape today - building my arsenal for the perfect weather tight connections. Found some heat shrink type connectors, but they were ~$1 a piece.....going to look on-line to find some sort of package deal.

 

Stormtech - You probably need to buy some stranded automotive primary wire and do some practice joints before you start working on your vehicle.

You're going to use 60-40 electrical/electronic solder. It's a very thin soldering wire and is available at places like Radio Shack. Don't use ordinary 50-50 rosin core solder. You have to strip the insulation from the ends or section of any wire you are going to join, about 1/2 - 3/4 inch. SSCULLY has posted several pictures in this forum of joint construction for different joins. Here's a link to a "lesson" describing various solder joints: http://www.markhellerelectric.com/solder.pdf The goal is to get a strong, solid mechanical joint before you start soldering. Then, you can heat the joint until the solder will melt and flow into it.

A good solder joint looks "shiny" and simply seems to look like a coat of metallic paint on the exposed wires. It should not look like a "lump", with a "crystallized" surface. The solder is simply "sealing the mechanical joint when done this way and will prevent corrosion.

Then, you can slide the heat shrink tube over the joint (you have to place the tube on one of the wires first, before you join them) and heat it with a heat gun, hair dryer, lighter, whatever. And/or, apply liquid tape.

Do a search on the internet, you'll probably find some other links that will give you good guidance. The key is to get the joint hot enough to make the solder flow into it - by capillary action.

- Jack

 

Thank you Jack!

I am now armed with enough information to get going -

I've learned a lot here already and feel confident that with some practice I'll be able to make a solid weatherproof connection.

In my search for supplies, I found that Fastenall has just about everything I need as far as connectors and tubing, and there is a retail store near me.

Thanks to all who contributed here - I've learned something today and that is a good thing!

 

As I posted above, the technical article section here ( look right under the word unofficial in the header above ) has 2 articles on the type of splices.

Here are the direct links if you don't want to get to them via the URL above.

https://www.f150online.com/tech/electrical1.html

http://www.geocities.com/gdgo/f150a2.htm

 

Oh well heck, Steve! Just like you to take all the fun out of it!

So, do I get a "dumb post" award for putting up redundant information?

- Jack

 

I would not call that redundant, as you posted the URL itself, I just pointed to the name of the URL on the site here.

The link you have is actually available offline ( not like that is a consideration anymore )

We'll just call that a wash 0-0 for this thread

stormtech - > Back to your regularly schedule program, sorry for the hijack ( no pun intended, but it worked well ).

 

Nah - I'm going to continue the hijack for just a bit more. When I found that lesson plan, I thought maybe it was one you had learned from, especially since its origin is Chicago. And the copyright date: 1926! Quality never goes out of style, does it?

Have fun, stormtech!

- Jack