I'm sure someone can answer this rather quickly...

Engine off battery voltage: 11.8-12.3 volts.
Engine on, idle battery voltage: 14.2-14.3 volts.
Engine on, cruise at 1800 rpms battery voltage: 13.9-14.3 volts.

Is there anything wrong with those readings?

 

Battery voltage seems low with engine off (and, I assume, minimum load). I'm used to seeing about 12.4 volts.

Your idle voltage is a tad higher than I see. I seem to recall voltages in the 13.9-14.0 range, but I have DRLs, so they're taking a bit of current.

And at cruise, when I'm not pulling a trailer, my voltages are pretty similar to yours. I usually see about 14.1-14.2 when I'm not pulling a trailer (and running it's refrigerator).

- Jack

 

The battery is around the 3 year mark from when the truck was built, and god knows how old that battery was sitting on the shelf at the warehouse.

Think I should get a Yellowtop?

 

So does anyone who reads the date code melted into the battery case. Take a look & then call the dealership parts department.Hell no. You'd be better off with a bunch of D-cells. The best battery is a top-level normal lead/acid from Johnson Controls like a MotorCraft, Interstate, or Sears DieHard Gold.

AGMs are crap unless you plan to mount your battery upside down by drilling a hole straight thru it. In THAT case, definitely get an AGM.

But you don't need a new battery until yours fails according to a MidTronics pulse tester, like all dealerships (of all makes) are required to use for warranty work. They're the industry-standard for battery testing, so most pro shops have at least one.

 

I have to agree with Steve on this. I think the "Yellowtop" is a bit overrated. It costs about twice what a "good" standard battery costs and has no better warranty.

I have Costco Kirkland batteries in both my vehicles. They have 100 month warranties and free replacement in the first three years. They DO NOT question you if you bring one in for a warranty replacement. No tests - they just give you a refund.

- Jack

 

Steve- this is an honest question. I am not familiar with the MidTronics tester. I have seen them in the pro tool catalogs but that's all. I use a carbon pile and an OTC Pro. If the MidTronics is the gold standard (and I know Ford dealers use it to satisfy Fords warrantee requirements) why do SO MANY guys who are having battery problems and under warrantee have to go buy a battery on their own or fight the dealer when replacement proves the battery was bad and yet the dealer said there was nothing wrong with it, per the Ford authorized tester? Honest question- I'm not gonna get in an argument over it.

 

The EON are good, but if the EOF is what it normally is, that's not good. A battery fully charged is technically 2.17 volts per cell, so that's 13.02 V fully charged. That's what my smart charger will push it to when it shuts off. Problem is it won't hold that charge. It will settle at about 12.6 to 12.8 in a good strong battery. As it ages, it gradually loses the ability to hold the voltage. A battery that is reading 12.2-12.3 will normally function just fine, you won't know that it's getting weak, but that is technically about 50% charge. The battery in my '04 F-150 will hold about 12.2- maybe 12.3 now and I am surprised it has lasted this long. When I put the smart charger on, it will normally push it to over 13.0 but within a day or so, it is back to the 12.2-12.3. I wouldn't waste my money on a yellow top. There used to be some really good batteries on the market, but they are all pretty mediocre any more. I load test my batteries about every 2-3 mo. and you can see their decline and replace before they leave you stranded.

 

Jack- That is the reason I buy Kirkland batteries, for exactly the reasons you stated. NOT because they are a top notch battery, they're not. As stated, I load test my batteries every 2-3 mo, and the Costco batteries don't test very well, though they function fine. I bought 2 new deep cycle for the motor home and they both tested about the same when I brought them home. Voltage- 12.76, cca's rated at 700, tested a little above that, and what do you buy a deep cycle for? AH's! They are rated at 115 and they tested around 75-76. I ALWAYS keep my batteries charged, and tested, I haven't used the MH since I put them in 1 1/2 yrs ago and now they test about 68-70 AH. I don't care what anyone says, there are no batteries anymore that have consistently high quality like when GNB made batteries before they sold to Excide. Now they're made to junk standards like the rest of the Excide. My brother bought a new Camry in the middle of '05. He called me a few days ago to ask if I could test his battery- it had fallen on it's face. He charged it, and I tested it, 12.0V, 0 CCA's. I looked to see who made it for Toyota, Yep, made by Excide.

 

I have an Interstate in my Dakota, and she cranks up wicked good.

I'll get another battery... the last thing I want to do is push start my truck up a hill...

 

I found a nifty charging guide to batteries... My F150's battery falls into the 40% charge range... In fact, I remember a couple weeks ago it would stay around the 12.5-12.4 volt range... it's going bad for sure.

 

My brothers corolla (i want to say 2006) just took a dump yesterday, and the car probably has 40-50k on it

Last week I jump started a 2002 Explorer with 120,000 miles on it still rocking the original battery

 

I threw a new battery in, and it is showing in the realm of 12.6-12.8 volts... I feel much better now.

 

yup its better to change it before it leaves you stranded at a bad time or place

 

Patman- notice what year you said the Exploder is? The Motorcraft batteries were still made by GNB (Gould National Battery) then. They sold out to Excide in about '03. That's the reason you see a lot of people saying they got 8-9 years out of the original battery on their '97, '98, '99 Ford. GNB was 1 of the best batteries money could buy. I doubt that there's any way he's gonna get much more than half that on the replacement battery, no matter what he buys. There just aren't much in the way of good batteries any more. Don't tell me how good it starts, load test it and then tell me what the figures are. That's the only true test of a battery and you'd be surprised that my '04 F-150 started great when I tested the battery after I hadn't driven it for a while and then was working inside with the doors open and then load tested it at about 11.8 V. Technically virtually dead!

 

OK Here's an honest answer: if you want information from me, don't send childish taunting e-mails BEFORE you ask me the 'honest' question. It really blows your credibility, and disinclines me to aquiesce to your request.

So to paraphrase you: "Have a good life, Roger."