Yesterday, less than a mile from my home I put my foot on the brake and the low fuel light came on but I had over a half a tank of gas. About a mile later I saw anywhere from 7 to 15.5 volts on my Scan Guage II. Then I stopped at a red light and everything went dead. No click on key turn,,nothing. AAA stopped by and just for grins I asked him to attempt a jump start before towing me to the dealer. It started right up and I drove back home. I put in a new battery and have had no further problems.

It seems the battery died while I was in motion. I have had battery problems when trying to start but, not after started.

Anyone else experience this?

 

I was under the impression that you alternator was powering your car while it was running...

 

i was gonna say the same thing about the alternator. never heard of that issue. crazy!

 

From the age of your truck, I'd guess you have some poor connections in the charging circuit. I'd disconnect everything, including where the negative battery cable grounds to the engine or frame and clean everything off. The jump probably provided enough current to "burn through" the corrosion that is most likely your problem. The problem WILL return though, unless you take action. Make sure you clean the cable connections that connect to the alternator too.

- Jack

 

X2 Electricity is funny stuff. Best thing is first to clean ALL connections in the starting system. That means grounds and positive. I did say ALL didn't I? Then charge the battery properly and test or have it tested. Jumping and running is not proper charging. I have and use a "smart charger" and I love it. Not the only way to charge but it truly is "smart", it does exactly what it's supposed to do. What Jack said is true, even if you needed a new battery, you did yourself a favor by cleaning all the contacts. I will often use an electrical grease that is labeled for aluminum wire. It promotes conduction and prevents corrosion.

 

I cleaned the battery terminals. Betting on the positive cable ending at the starter I can find and clean that end.

Does anyone have any idea where the negative cable is grounded to the block or frame? All that is visible under the hood is the plastic sheathing used to protect the wires.

 

No, I don't have any idea where your negative cable grounds. But, it's usually down low and exposed to dirt, water, salt and whatever.

Although, since I notice you're in Tucson (like me) it's mostly exposed to dirt.

I honestly think the negative cable is the weak link. You could have someone pull on it while you crawl under the truck to look for movement.

But again, you really need to check out the entire charging circuit - since that's what powers your vehicle when it's running. Try to trace all the wires coming off the alternator and clean every contact point at each end of them.

We should probably meet up sometime. I notice you're Retired Air Force too. We probably have a bit in common (including age). I'm on the East side of town.

- Jack

 

Jack... I am retired Air Force and also live on the East side of Tucson not too far from Golf Links and Harrisson Road.

We can get together and compare notes.

I will get back to you.

 

Just had to replace the harness from the battery on mine over the winter. Negative was grounded on the frame behind the front passenger side tire. Depending on where your battery is mounted, it'll most likely be straight down on the closest frame member.

Don't rule out the alternator yet. I'd stop at an Autozone or other shop that can check it for you for free. When my alternater went, the scan gauge showed my volts going all over the place. A new battery will "hide" a bad alternator for awhile. Is you scan gauge showing consistent volts now, or is it still bouncing around a lot?

 

Crownie
Now the Scan Guaage II shows voltage anywhere from 11.5 at a stp light to 13.6 while driving. I have the undersize pullies and electric fans so the 11.5 at idle is expected.

I guess I will go diving for the end of the ground cable.

 

At 11.5 volts, you're discharging your battery while stopped, and, 13.6 is what I see when I'm pulling my trailer with its TWO on-board batteries and a DC-powered refrigerator (I actually get about 13.6-13.7 volts then).

You can raise your idle speed a bit to help with the stopped voltage, but I don't know how to do this on your model year truck.

I think, since you have 13.6 volts while driving, your alternator is good. But in addition to the battery negative ground cable, trace and clean all contacts in the charging circuit itself. Again, though, the negative side is possibly the weak link since it normally depends on connections to the frame for part of the path.

- Jack