I have searched the forums and found the same problem, but no one ever posted what the problem was or how to fix.

I have 05 Fx4 Screw.

All windows work fine from the Master switch on the driver side, but can not get any of the other windows to work from their own switches.

I checked the child lock and I get power out from the connector when it is in the unlock position and an open/no power when it is in the lock position.
So it appears that the child lock switch is working correctly.

Just not sure if there is another fuse in line or the pinout on the other switches to test them.

Any help would be great.

 

Jack posted a good article in the how to on repairing switches.

This is focused on the LEDs, but there are pictures of how the switch contacts get a bit nasty, and stop working.

The pictures I posted were from my 2006, the Master switch. Driver's window stopped working in 1 direction.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...-switches.html

A new front right switch is about 52.00 + S/H online. MSRP = 73.10, so it is worth taking a look at the contacts to clean them.

 

thanks,

I've cleaned the switches and its not likely that all 3 swtiches go bad all at once.

Anyone have a wiring diagram of the Master and the other windows.
the Master will work all 4 windows, but the other 3 passenger windows will not work themselves.

So, I think the problem is somewhere in the wiring for the child lockout.
Does this activate a relay for the other switches to work?

The child lockout is in the Power connector 3wires only in the master swtich, or at least that is what my Meter tells me when I control the switch.
In the Lock position, I get 0V and in the unlock I get 12V on the center wire.
The outer 2 wires are Power/gnd for the entire switch.

 

Not probable, but possible. One would think that the driver's is the one to have a problem too, but others have had problems with the other switches, not the drivers.

If you get power out of the child lock switch, then time to check the voltage into the other switches



BTW : Have you done any work or mods on the truck ?

EDIT : forgot to include this

 

Thanks a lot, this will help.

Only Mods, have been a 10inch sub, amp and amp for the Polk 571's.

But the windows quit before that work was done.


I'll let everyone know what the problem was, for future problems.

 

Maybe I missed something here, but doesn't the lockout switch disable EVERY other door window switch, leaving only the driver's switches able to move the things?

Your symptom sure sounds like a lockout switch that has decided it's in the "lockout" position. I have not looked at this thing to see what kind of switch it is, but, I know I'd start my troubleshooting there.

In my vehicle, it's a separate switch. And, forgive me SSCULLY, maybe it's just my fading brain cells, but I'm not seeing the lockout switch in your wiring diagram.

- Jack

 

look at the master switch part again. it says "LOCK".

and cyclone;

when the other doors are not locked out , the LEDs in the switchs should light up. and when you lock the other doors out, they go out. this is a simple test to see if it really is your lockout function.

 

Oh duh! Maybe I need new glasses! :o Good thought to look at the LEDs in the other switches too. I'd forgotten that bit of information (which is shown in the wiring diagram too)!

- Jack

 

Well I would like to start by thanking everyone for their help.

Come to find out, all 3 switches needed cleaning.

I guess thats what happens when you buy used.. you just don't know the status of things..

I cleaned the contacts and all windows work now.

The Lock out switch did turn the power to the LED's on and off.
that was a good indication that it was working correctly.

The only other option I had was to clean the contacts..

thanks again

 

Super! I found the switch contacts totally "black" when I repaired the LED circuits in mine, but the switches themselves still worked. I cleaned mine with a typewriter eraser, which seems to be mildly abrasive, but not to the point of causing damage. (It was a technique I learned maybe 40 years ago. At some point, we probably won't be able to buy typewriter erasers!) I remember now I have an old bottle of Radio Shack electrical contact oxidation cleaner too, and maybe I should have tried that.

Anyway, I'm delighted you found and repaired your problem! Isn't it cool to fix something like this at no cost?

- Jack

 

Goes to show, one cannot discount the unexpected

Glad you got it taken care of, that would have been 150.00 in switches. Someday you might need them if you have cleaned the contacts 2 times already, but for now your are golden.

Regular erasers can also work, better then the how to that showed the scratching the contacts I did with a "dental" pick.

The contacts seem to blacken from sitting in a position ( the unused pass ones ) while being operated from another position. Almost like a bad splice or loose connector does.

 

I just got a brand new master switch installed. It was under full warranty, the contacts were bad and none of the other switches were working, no led in the other switches. I figured this would solve the problem but no such luck. Still no led's in the other 3 doors or operation in those doors. Works about the same as it did with the bad master, just not as "sticky" and I don't push as hard. Any help please, I'm having my shop look at it again but it would be nice if I knew what it was...This must be a common problem??

Thanks

 

With no LEDs in the other switches, I would check the child lock. That is what supplies power to the other switches to operate, and to ID if the lock is on.

If that is in the correct position, pull the switch panel out, and probe with a meter, to see if power is coming out of the child lock.

This is the Yellow w/ light green stripe on the connector.

 

Ok, I just tried probing the yellow/green. There IS power coming from the master lockout, when I engage the child lock it does what it should and there is no power from the yellow/green. So thats out the lockout is working fine, and i just can't believe it would be a broken wire in the door hinge but anything is possible...Any other ideas anyone??

 

Considering the child lock switch is working as it should, and that is the only thing common to all other doors, I would look in the door to A-pillar for that wire to be broken.

The other thing would be to pull the passenger side door switch, and check for power in on that circuit, and ground on the other 2 circuits ( Tan w/ Light blue stripe & White w/ Yellow stripe wire ).

If the Yellow w/ light green stripe does not have power on it, that shows you the child lock to the common slice for all 3 doors, the wire is broken.

Not as uncommon as you would think. Seems to happen with a few different wires in the driver's side door to a-pillar harness for some reason ( and in other cases, all is fine ).