Blinker problems

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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #16  
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Guys, what are the chances of the problem being the electronic flasher unit? My MFS came in and Im going to try and tackle it tomorrow after work. Anyone have any pointers before I take on this job? Im more afraid to do this vs replacing my COPs and Fuel filter!!!
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #17  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
You hazards work, it is not the flasher. Same flasher for both the hazards and the directionals.

The thing is plug and play, it is easier then the fuel filter. Now if it is a problem with the MFS, you are going to find out. This is why I suggested testing it.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 11:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
You hazards work, it is not the flasher. Same flasher for both the hazards and the directionals.

The thing is plug and play, it is easier then the fuel filter. Now if it is a problem with the MFS, you are going to find out. This is why I suggested testing it.
But testing would require pulling it out from the steering column right? So that is why I bought one just in case it was the MFS because if it was, I could just replace it right then. My book suggest taking out the ignition switch, pulling the whole wheel off etc. IS that correct? At least the steering wheel part is what I am getting from the pics from the Haynes Repair Manual. Thanks for your help
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #19  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
God no, that it too much from what I recall.

The U shaped piece of trim over the steering wheel ( under the cluster )
I am drawing a blank right at the moment if the anti submarine panel needs to be removed first, so pull that. Screws along the bottom edge.

3 screws on the bottom of the steering wheel column cover, and the bottom cover comes off, and you can get to the top cover.

You might have to bend the top cover around the ign switch, just be careful, and you might want to warm it up with a hairdryer first, to make sure it is ply-able. The ign switch pulls out really easy if you need it to

https://www.f150online.com/forums/el...beep-beep.html

When you get the bottom panels off, take a look for the connector that is for the steering wheel column to the truck's harness in the dash. This some times pulled tight. That is the other check on the way to pulling the MFS for testing.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 07:54 PM
  #20  
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Blinker problem help asap

OK, I put the new one on and should I notice someething immediately if I turn the truck on where the blinkers should work? If they do not work, what is my next option? I dont know what fuses go to what.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:20 PM
  #21  
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Also, the new one has 2 of the male copper thingys missing (379, 380), does that matter?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 11:19 PM
  #22  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
The fuse numbers are in the diagram above.

Not sure what you are talking about with 379 & 380. I must be missing something, but there is no circuit numbers with those on it.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 11:35 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY
The fuse numbers are in the diagram above.

Not sure what you are talking about with 379 & 380. I must be missing something, but there is no circuit numbers with those on it.
Well I found the fuse and it checked out to be fine. The numbers I listed are on the actual MFS where the wires/harness connect to, they are the male copper pieces that the harness connects to and byt the copper male pieces are numbers listed next to them. On the new one where 379 and 380 would have the copper male pieces, they are not there. I dont know if that matters or not.
Amyways so I reconnected the old MFS back because when I put the new one on and tested the hazards and blinkers, the blinkers still didnt work. So I took it off and put the old one on and then put all the pieces back on the steering column. Now I dont know what to do
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #24  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
You should have tested it when you had it out.

Take the steering wheel column back apart, remove the MFS, and test it with the chart above to see if it actually is bad.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 11:07 PM
  #25  
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Dude, looking at that grid is like looking at the russian language to me. I have no idea what to do with what you posted. I put in that new MFS and that did not fix the problem. Ill see if I can find a friend who may know what they are doing. But say if it is not the MFS, what else could it be???
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #26  
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anyone???
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #27  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Did you test the MFS ?

If not, stop asking what else it could be.
If you want a guessing game, try Jeopardy.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:23 PM
  #28  
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No I didnt because I dont know how even with that grid and when I put the new one in, it didnt fix the problem. My logic may be wrong but if the new one didnt fix the problem, why test the old one if the same problem is happening with the new part? Know what I mean? Again, I could be off.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #29  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by suavehorn
No I didnt because I dont know how even with that grid and when I put the new one in, it didnt fix the problem. My logic may be wrong but if the new one didnt fix the problem, why test the old one if the same problem is happening with the new part? Know what I mean? Again, I could be off.
Did you even have the correct MFS ? You indicated that the new one was missing pins that the one you took out did not.

You need to test the MFS that you have, and if you cannot figure it out from the chart, you need to get someone who can. Can't go any farther, as you have not done any diagnostic work yet.
 
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