I ordered mine from XenonLink and I am "beta testing" their kit for the forum members and will gladly FLAME them on here if I have problems

 

can anyone show me what this guy is talking about i got it from the link posted above and it seems to be useful thankyou for the link by the way man here is what the guy from that forum said. i am intersted in the light bulb tricking way.
if you want a simple fix you can do this to one or both sides. go and buy two 1157 light bulbs and two sockets for them. take the two possitive wires and twist them together than connect them to the hi beam wire from the factory harness. than ground the third wire on the new bulb socket.

there is other ways to do this but this is by far one of the easiest.

the problem is the car needs to see a ground path of about 6 ohms (which would be similar to when a light bulb is present) and if it does not see it , it seems an issue. and you cant just put a resistor shorting between gorund and the hi beam wire because if you by mistake hit the high beam it will melt the resistor fast.

if you dont want to go the light bulb way there is load resistors generally used for led turn signals however if there are on for most than pulses they to will burn up. so again i say a bs light bulb is one of the fastest roots

or the last thing is this. your gunna need two diodes per side . find the parking light wire the possitive wire actually going to the parking light bulb. cut it and place two didoes on the line coming from the light bulb. Butt connect the two diodes to the possitive wire (BULBSIDE) one with the strip of diode facing bulb and one with it facing away from it. now connect the diode with the strip facing bulb to the original parking light wire. and connect the other diode to the hi beam wire. this does not work on all cars but i have used it in the past to stop hid flickering and such. this method should let enough ground path signal to prevent hi beam light out error.
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i dunno, But am going to install mine thursday night. To me it still sounds like a leak or ground issue. Expecially since your hi's don't work. The load issue wouldn't supprise me, except that these trucks don't look for burnt bulbs and if, and I stress IF they did, every member of this fine forum that has HID's in a 2001 or up would have this problem. But they don't. So, simplest reason that would answer all HIS problems would be a faulty harness.

 

Let me try to help you. Please answer a few of my questions. Also, is your kit a Bi-Xenon or regular Hi/Lo kit?
1) When you turn on your high beam does turn on? What happens to the high beam indicator?
2) When you flash your high beam does it flash? What happens to the high beam indicator?
3) Does your high beam work at all?
4) Does your kit comes with the relay?

 

It is a full true bi xenon kit
when flash my headlghts my high beams do not come on. the high beam indicator just goes from being dim to gets brighter.
when i flash them the same thng happens It just makes the indicator brighter
no they do not work at all with the kit put my stock ones back In though and both high and low work fne
the kit does come with a relay.

 

so i contacted the company i got them from and we are all thinking that a new harness may fix the issue so they are sending me out one. I am hoping that this fixes my issue. What are your guys thoughts?

 

Few additional questions

1. Do you have DRLs
2. Do you have Auto Lamps?
3. When do you have the problem with the high beam indicator / high beams not working, with the headlamps on or off ?
4. When the high beams don't work, are you only testing them with the MFS pushed forward, or do you still have the same problem with the FTP ( flash to pass, pull back on the lever and hold ).

do you have a URL for the install directions ? I would assume one side of the stock harness plugs into a ballast, and the other side if hanging loose, but I don't want to assume this is correct.

 

New harness might fix this problem. I think it also could be your polarity setting. If you want you could play around with the wires. There's only 3 possible wiring connections. To do this you should be able to locate a big blue connector on your relay which it has three wires (2 red, 1 black). Try rearranging the wires and see if any of the wire setting will work.
Again I could be wrong, since your HID kit is not from us.
Please do let us know if your new harness fixes the problem.

 

I do not have day time running lamps. i do how ever have auto lambs but when i take it off that setting it does the same thing as if it was set on regular manual way to get the head lights to turn on. i did not try to flash my headlights with the lights turned off. i am not sure if that would have worked i dont have directions for them it is all plug and play i was expecting them to have some sort but they do not come or have any on the website there is once blue connector that plugs into the existing lighting harness leaving the other stock one not connected to anything. i don thave the kit with me where am but i beleve there is three wires coming off the bulb that can only go into the harness a certain way. i can take pictures of the harness and my complete kit when i get home. which will most likely be tommorow. i am hoping it is a relay problem with in the harness and new harness will fix it. (on a side note does anyone think that using the battery as a ground could be the issure i am thinking no just want to throw that question out there?

 

I installed mine last night. Everything works great. So, that new harness should do it for you.I just wish they gave you longer wires. I wasn't about to install the control box in the middle of the radiator, So I mounted it behind the washer fluid and extended the wires to the drivers side light. I'm not sure how yours is going to be, But the plug going into my control box was not weather rated. Be before I installed it, I used dielectric grease on the terminals and the back of the plug. After that everything went great. They look very nice and the Hi beams change quickly and dont wiggle around too much. This morning however, Tends to be a little too cold for the control box. (-25, -47 with wind chill) The relays have a slight delay when switching causing the headlight to shut down for a second between hi and low beam. Prolly the grease in the relay is freezing making it more like a paste.

 

At low temperatures such below -25 will have problems. Even car batteries will die on you in such low temperatures. Imagine those people who lives in Alaska.

 

so as i am waiting for my harness to arrive i was taking a look at my bulbs and they say 35 watt on the bottom now on the ballast i beleive it says 55 watt. am i wrong to assume that there is a problem that i have 35 watt bulbs shouldnt I have 55 watt bulbs?

 

If I understand the functioning of the HID, it uses the same circuit for the high and low beam. That causes current to flow back into the high beam circuit and turn on the high beam indicator when in the low beam setting. The diode solution that was linked to would be the best. I have heard of some combo HIDs that use the same bulb but move it in relation to the reflector for hi beam. I wonder if that kit would be affected by the indicator problem?

 

Hey all i just want to thank everyone for there replies and help along the process of me getting my hids working. well i had a friend come over after i received my new harness and after a few phone calls with ddm and failed attempts. it turns out that the harness was set up for 9004 so we just had to switch two wires from the hid harness to the stock harness. after that it works flawlessy with the acception that when head lights are on my flash to pass does not work that may just be the kit though and how it works. considering flash to pass works when the headlights are turned off. So all ad all i am very happy finally and i will be posting pics as soon as i get a chance and my truck is cleaned up. once again thankyou all for your help. P.s they also said that my bulbs do not matter that they say 35 watt they still will burn at 55 watt.

 

If FTP works with the headlamp off, I am going to take a guess that the ballast cannot energize both the low and high beam at the same time.

Might be it cannot ignite the HID bulb while the ballast is operational. ( capacitor charge ) ?

This is just a SWAG, maybe another email to the MFGR would answer this.

The 35 vs 55W bulb is something I could see, as long as the ballast and capacitor is sized correctly.
The HID bulb's resistance increases during warm up ( the dim to bright transition ).

IF the resistance of the 35 W bulb during run time is x, and the 55 W bulb is 1.6x the current change ( operational output of the ballast ) is so small, it does not matter.

Example sake, the 35 W bulb is 100 ohms and the 55W is 160 ohms ( using a low value with the x & 1.6x SWAG )

P=I^2*R

35 = I^2*100
35/100=I^2
.35 = I^2
Sqrt of 0.35 is .59

55=I^2*160
55/160=I^2
.34=I^2
Sqrt of 0.34 is .58

This is just an example of how it changes, if the resistance of the bulb is actually higher, this makes the sqrt number much lower. 1000 ohms for 35 W = Sqrt ( 35/1000 )= 0.187 & Sqrt ( 55/1600 )= 0.185

The bulb life might be shortened a bit, but in automotive applications, you would never see this, as the bulb is ignited and re-ignited so often, that is going to be the life killer of the bulb.