Im looking into adding a second battery, or other power source because my accessory post on my current battery is full. Ive also got a lot of lighting and the sound system sucking juice from it. I have not had any problems with having enough power for everything, yet. I do have mods that get no juice because i have no way to get them power. So...

1.) what should I do? Add second battery or is there other options?
2.) how would i go about adding a second battery?
3.) What about the alternator? i have the 130 amp that comes w/ the tow package.

In my searches around here i did not find much other than needing a larger alternator, but in one thread i found i have the 130 amp alt and it was debated weather or not it would need to be upgraded to keep up the charge?

Thanks everyone! ive been so busy lately this is the only thing holding me back from finishing alot of my mods...

 

I imagine you could add an extra battery without putting any strain on the alternator. I have the 130 amp alternator and it seems to work just fine charging my truck's battery, my trailer's two batteries in parallel and the trailer's refrigerator when I'm towing. Charge voltage stays in the 3.6 volt range. And, I'm running the climate control, CD player and Daytime Running Lights too. (I installed a DRL module).

The BIG problem is figuring out where to put the thing!

Can't you just add another "tap" to the accessory tap on your current battery? (It will look like hell of course). All these things you're using are really getting their power from the alternator. The battery is just "regulating" the voltage.

- Jack

 

I had not thought of another tap, ill have to look into that. I also hear you about where to put another battery, i have zero room in the engine bay with the bulky S&B intake.

 

a while back, may be a year there was a post on a farmer who had several trucks custom ordered who was upgrading the electrical systems

he had some on board 12 volt oprated accessories, like a 12 volt commerical air compressor, extra lights, lightbars etc

he stated he had some custom made battery trays that they hung under the bed from the frame,

I think he used a 8D sized battery.

to check the batteries he had to use a transmission jack and lower them

the batteries were connected to the truck with welding cables with disconnests

he used a battery isolator so that the trucks normal starting battery would always be charged.

they had all the added 12 volt items connected to the auxillary / extra so that they did not have to modify the orginal electrical system.

they had all the accessoriesto the extra batteries so that they could shut the trucks off and save fuel.

Yes I am aware of the limits of batteries, but apparently they knew what was possible.

I believe that I saw the story here, the individual was also involved in a volunteer fire department and had used the same tricks on their fire trucks in making upgrades

hope this gives some idea or help.

you might look under the bed and see where you could hang a battery or 2

I have never thought to look, guess I need to some time just to see what is available

 

I've seen some of the older Ford diesel vans that had the second battery in a box on the right frame rail under the side door. You could remove the lid to access and test it but had to use a jack to drop it if you needed to change it. They also used a safety cable attached to the box and the frame so if the mounting every broke or rotted off it wouldn't just go bouncing down the road. Which means the battery must also be secured inside the box and the lid of the box must bolt in place.
Good idea when you have no other place to stuff one but a PITA when you need to service or change it.

 

I cant fit anything on the frame rails becuase of the amp steps. And the only really large amount of room under the truck is back in front of the spare tire, but that seems like a long way to run for a second battery.

As for a second accessory tap this is all im really finding...
Wirthco

 

Looks like it could work. Certainly isn't going to break the bank to buy it. I'd just make sure the low amp draw accessories are connected to it. Looks just a bit "low load" to me.

But, anythng that connects to the positive post and gives you conection points will work just fine.

You could even make a tap out of a piece of copper strip (bought at ACE hardware), drilled to attach to the connector like that one does and then has a bolt (through a hole at the other end) that you can attach your accessories to.

- Jack

 

Hey FX4life, did you ever do anything to your battery? My accessory post is getting full as well and I was looking for a solution.

- NCSU

 

GO ahead and get one, but finding a place to put it will be the hard part. I still haven't decided where to put it、but I have ideas but it will still be in the cab. Thinking of buying a marine battery cover and put holes in it and a tube that will go out the back of the truck. It has flaps or something that lets air out i guess?

 

If you only need a place to terminate the accessory, why not just add an additional fuse panel under the hood ?

Centech & Fuzeblock are 2 nice ones, these are ATO fuses.

I have both mfgr's nice gear. The Fuzeblock is only 30 A, but the option of adding a key in run postion signal, so accessories are only on with teh key, the Centech needs their relay kit for this.

Napa has some fuse panels, that are also a lug connection to it with ATO fuses, multiple sizes I think up to 8 positions ( ? )

This does not take into account if you have enough AMPs to drive them, just places to terminate them.

If you are looking for a higher alternator output, the previous posts on the topic were suggesting Mr Alternator ( IIRC ). Somewhere in my senior brain I seem to recall they had 200 A versions ? Try google for some options is all I can suggest on the topic of needing more AMPs for driving a large audio system or that many lights.

One other thing, I seem to recall Neal has his battery relocated to the frame, I could have that wrong, try his gallery for some pictures maybe ?

 

i use the power distribution terminal on the starter solenoid to run my accessories. it looks alot better than using the battery post.

 

In tow trucks, second batteries are sometimes located behind the seat. In a standard cab, that would be an option. Have you considered the truck bed? Install a battery box in front of the wheel well.

 

For my boat I have a heavy combination starting and deep discharge battery that has both top post terminals as well as side terminals. I would think something like that might meet your needs, both for an extra area for connections (the side posts) as well as the potential drainage issues since these are designed to be deeply discharged. I bought it at WalMart for about $85.