Theft light
#1
Theft light
'97 Expedition EB. Every morning for the last 3 weeks this has been my starting procedure...turn key to on postion and wait...watch the "theft" light blink fast for three mins then watch it turn to a slower blink... then wait a few more mins.... then it goes out and I am able to start the car with no problem and will not have this problem again till the next morning. Battery seems fine, I had new key programmed ( Now I have 3) and I'v also had cover off column and have fiddled with every wire.
Is there a different meaning between a fast blink and a slow blink?
Because it only happens in morning could it be a battery problem?
Would it be worth spending $100 on the receiver to "take a chance"?
Please help winter is coming and I dont want to wait 6 mins to start my truck BRRRRRRRRRRR.
Is there a different meaning between a fast blink and a slow blink?
Because it only happens in morning could it be a battery problem?
Would it be worth spending $100 on the receiver to "take a chance"?
Please help winter is coming and I dont want to wait 6 mins to start my truck BRRRRRRRRRRR.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
Posts: 7,247
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Does this sound familiar?
Steve
— THEFT Indicator ON two seconds, then flash for one minute, then flash diagnostic trouble code 16 ten times.
a. Key Code Received/Vehicle Enabled or Disabled (No PCM Verification).
b. If vehicle starts, PCM is not working with control module.
c. If vehicle does not start, refer to the Module Communications Network section.
d. Refer to «Section 418-00» for diagnostic assistance to isolate any communication system.
a. Key Code Received/Vehicle Enabled or Disabled (No PCM Verification).
b. If vehicle starts, PCM is not working with control module.
c. If vehicle does not start, refer to the Module Communications Network section.
d. Refer to «Section 418-00» for diagnostic assistance to isolate any communication system.
Steve
#3
Thanks! The blinking code seems very accurate, but i'm not a mechanic and i'm trying to avoid going to one because im sure the dealership will recommend replacement of the pcm, I dont know what that will cost but i'm sure its not cheap. What do you think the odds of it being the receiver are? Is there any other cheap parts i could replace before going for the PCM?
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#9
OK so don't have a mechanic look at it, go out and buy the correct scan tools. You also have to buy the correct re-programing device. These are not Dad's ole Ford that you could tinker with in the garage. they have so many computers and so many intergrated parts that, messing with them requires thousands of dollars worth of specialized computer equipment (just to replace a battery on a newer mercedes requires a $10,000 computer to tell it just that... and if you try to give someone a jump... or you get a jump, you will have fried your computer system to the point of need replacing...then you have to pay us a lot of mula!). they are getting more and more away from the "grease" mechanic and more towadrs those stupid lab-coat "technicians". Go to a local independant...ask them to diagnose the problem for you (NOT to fix it, just tell YOU whats wrong so that YOU can fix it). And I would NEVER recommend ANY dealership unless there is absolutely no way around it. They are called STEALerships for a reason. Good luck bud.
#10
PCM was the problem
I hope the following info helps someone.
'97 expedition
The transciever can be easily replace without effecting the programming of pats. This is located around the ignition switch and recieves the code from the key, its a $90 part.
I took a chance and replaced the part and it did not fix the problem for me.
As the problem was temperature related, i put a space heater in my car at various points and found out most likly was the PCM. Also determined by reading tonnes of chat on the issuse.
PCM powertrain control modual.
Although its located inside the passenger cab (where you think it maybe safe) it passes through the firewall so all the connections are made in the engine compartment. (WTF were they thinking?) I read somewhere that 50 % of PCM returned to Ford are in perfect condition. SO as a last ditch effort I unpluged the PCM, fiddled with all the wires, gave the PCM a few good knocks (it works with TV's LOL) sprayed all the connections with electronic cleaner spray and tightened it back on tight.......
Well its a week later and the problem has not come back, no stealership, no fancy computers, just logic and a little bit of luck.
My advice is that if you are having any problem with the PCM, and your vehicle is a few years old, it might be worth 30 mins of your time to clean and check your PCM connection, and give it a few good knocks.
Cheers!!
'97 expedition
The transciever can be easily replace without effecting the programming of pats. This is located around the ignition switch and recieves the code from the key, its a $90 part.
I took a chance and replaced the part and it did not fix the problem for me.
As the problem was temperature related, i put a space heater in my car at various points and found out most likly was the PCM. Also determined by reading tonnes of chat on the issuse.
PCM powertrain control modual.
Although its located inside the passenger cab (where you think it maybe safe) it passes through the firewall so all the connections are made in the engine compartment. (WTF were they thinking?) I read somewhere that 50 % of PCM returned to Ford are in perfect condition. SO as a last ditch effort I unpluged the PCM, fiddled with all the wires, gave the PCM a few good knocks (it works with TV's LOL) sprayed all the connections with electronic cleaner spray and tightened it back on tight.......
Well its a week later and the problem has not come back, no stealership, no fancy computers, just logic and a little bit of luck.
My advice is that if you are having any problem with the PCM, and your vehicle is a few years old, it might be worth 30 mins of your time to clean and check your PCM connection, and give it a few good knocks.
Cheers!!
#11
I havn't been that lucky, mine does return, been driving us nuts for months, for some reason it will not act up with a laptop or scanner/programmer plugged in, went that route for a few weeks, the day you unplug it, it usually dies within the hour, so I hope you are better off luck wise.
It's had a few mech. with scan tools baffelled as it won't throw a code all the time, and what they do find is a result of it, not the cause. they are thinking it is the GEM module going bad, fortunate for Me, it's all friends with nice bosse's that we can bring it in and play during lunch hours at no charge
It's had a few mech. with scan tools baffelled as it won't throw a code all the time, and what they do find is a result of it, not the cause. they are thinking it is the GEM module going bad, fortunate for Me, it's all friends with nice bosse's that we can bring it in and play during lunch hours at no charge