My cruise control does not work right.

My vehicle: 2001 F150 2WD 4.2L V6

When I reach the speed I want to cruise at, I press ON then Set/Accel. the CRUISE indicator flashes briefly, and does not engage.

So far, I've check the following:

1. all fuses are OK
2. I've tried the self-test:

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Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective
Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

try this and see if the speed control module has any codes in it.
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the CRUISE indicator flashes with each press, with no additional flashes.
the throttle lever does not move at the end of the test.
the servo in the control module, XL3F-9C735-BB, does not seem to move either.
the throttle cable from the lever to the servo can move freely and easily without binding.

What should I do at this point? should I replace the control module? or is there anything else I can check?

 

Check the deactivation switch on the brake master cylinder. Mine just stopped working one day and would do the quick flash too. Also - to get the flashes from the self test - it has to be done absolutely right and fast enough. I pulled the plug off my deactivation switch and could see that it was leaking. went to the dealer, bought one - unscrewed the old one, screwed the new one in - and cruise worked fine then. This was on a 2001 5.4

 

I looked at the switch... it seems to be seeping brake fluid... isn't that the switch that caused those fires, so ford put a fuse onto the switch with the recall... but left the defective switches?

hmmm... I will replace the switch, and see if it helps....

 

Read this caption:



...and this:

 

When i had the recall done, the guy did it in the parking lot, only doing the harness installation... "I've done a hundred of these, it only takes a minute" he said... around that time the cruise failed... so he might have missed the leaking switch???

hmmm....

 

If you think the switch was leaking when he did the recall, and he missed it, contact Ford national or your state DOT or OMV or NTSB.

 

Just out of curiousity do you have LED tail lights? they draw less amps and i know on the newer 150's the cruise doesnt work correctly with led's

 

nope, stock tail lights

 

I have replaced the switch and harness without issue, but the fuse continues to blow repeatily. Even with the harness disconnected from the switch the fuse still blows. What is strange is I just checked the acutator and blend door (after taking the dash apart) and they are perfect (had to check)! I was able to put a fuse in and without starting the truck, I got watched the acutator motor to turn and got the door open so at least I have heat now. I even started the truck two times and drove to the stealership and the ABS light stayed on, the acuator opened and closed (I felt temp diff) but on the third start up, the ABS light went out and the fuse blew again. I thought I had the harness hooked up wrong (the original caught fire at 5:20am and I caught it before it caused any damage, but burnt the switch and wires so had to strip the old wires and harness to get it to fit, and yes, the wires are connected correctly), so now I am stuck. Question is, will I need to check the wiring to see where else it is shorted our is there another suggestion from one of you guru's on what to do?
Oh, by the way, before anyone asks, FORD refused to replace the switch/harness because I missed the recall and the small fire under the hood so they washed their hands of me. That is why I did the repairs. Or tried to anyway. I just need to know what is the next step so I can stop blowing the #5 fuse and can get heat/ac and the cruise to work!

I guess I have to fix or repair daily or I will be found on road dead! But I still love my ford.

I have a 97 F150, 4.2L V6, manufactured in June 1996. It has 120533 miles on it.

 

Install a 12V light bulb in place of the fuse, turn off EVERYTHING powered by that circuit, turn the key on, & observe the bulb while inspecting the wiring. If the light comes on full bright, you have a dead short to ground. If the light goes dim, you have high resistance to ground. If the light is off, the circuit is normal. Wiggle the harness until you find where you can turn the light on & off, and that's where the fault is. If you can't make the light go off, unplug various connectors - when the light goes off, you just unplugged the section that contains (or feeds) the short.

 

I had this exact same thing go wrong on my 2001 Crew cab. I had the dealership diagnose and fix the problem. I will find my reciept and post a reply. It was very inexpensive but if I knew what the problem was I would have just bought the part and done it myself. (I was in a pinch and needed cruise for a trip that I was going on) Alright I will go and find the Repair Order and let you know. It will be posted on Monday when I go back to work.(receipt is at home; dial up at home )

-01Lariatcrew

 

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Obviously, you fail to grasp the enormity of the situation.

A fault is recognised that will require over a million vehicles to be serviced ASAP.

Parts have to be ordered from suppliers and then distributed to hundreds of dealers. This takes time (months)

At the same time, the public is notified of the potential problem and are instructed to have an interim safety action performed (disconnect the harness).

Dealers are swamped with customers. Some fail to followup. That's the dealers' fault, not Ford's.

If the switch is found to be leaking at the fused harness install time, the switch also gets replaced.

Is there any part of this that needs further explanation? Ford's responsibility is to make a reasonable attempt to mitigate the discovered safety concern in a timely manner. Your local dealer is an independent company with a franchise from Ford. It is not Ford.

Steve

 

Actually, Ford national is required to contact the state DMVs to get a list of the current registered owner for each VIN, and do the "following-up" when the parts become available.

So if you don't get a notice when the parts are available, make sure your vehicle registration is current.

Dealers aren't involved in any way until a customer appears in a vehicle with an involved VIN. And then, they can only perform the exact procedure that Ford national & the NTSB have agreed on. If that's just swapping in a fuse, then that's what the dealers have to do.

If you want them to do something else, YOU have to discuss that with them and pay for it. In some cases, Ford won't allow any modification other than the exact recall procedure, so you'd have to go to an independent shop or DIY. But then it's all on you if something bursts into flames.