OK, I think I have the majority if this install figured out but have one question. The instructions say that mount relay 24" from the battery, fine. I am then to connect the yellow wire to the battery, fine. But it also says that I need to connect the white wire (coming back from the cabin) to a 12 volt power source. Can I just connect it to the same power supply as the yellow wire? Hopefully this pic works ...



And last thing .. if these two wires (white and yellow) get connected to the battery, what is the best way?

Thanks for all the help.

Chris

 

where are all the electrical gurus?

 

Sorry, all of us "gurus" were at our annual meeting where we decide who we're going to give straight answers to and who we're going to mess with. Then there was the business of coming up with a new secret handshake.

Without a wiring diagram, it's a bit tougher to answer your question, but the picture showed me what I need. The high current draw side is the yellow wire that goes from the battery to the relay. I'd use a ring connector and attach it right to the bolt that clamps the positive terminal to the battery. The low current draw side is the white wire. You could run this all the way back to the battery if you want, but becasue the draw will be so low on this side, you can run this to an appropriate fuse in your Fuse Box.

The other gurus will be back shortly. They had to stay late because of something they got caught doing with farm animals during the meeting.

 

Thanks for the reply .. I bought this used and based on the lengths of wire it will be simpler for me to attach the white wire with the yellow one, to the battery. Really apprecaite the explanation.

 

if i remember right, and i think i do ( i have about 4 of these harnesses brand new in the garage) isn't the yellow gauge heavier duty?

here's a few links for you and let me know if you have any probs with the kc's, i'm a dealer of theirs....

White Wire Info

4-Pole Relay Wiring Diagram

if you want the lights to come on with just the switch, connect the white wire to the yellow wire. the yellow wire should be more heavy duty and thicker gauge than the white one. the white one is just going to be a low voltage turn on and i don't think it's going to carry enough current, probably either blow fuses or melt the wire

 

The yellow wire is heavier gage because it carrys a heavier load. It's actually carrying the full load of the lights. The white wire is only used to power the switching circuit. It triggers the relay and carrys a much lower load.

 

Chris:
I wired my KC lights just like you're suggesting. White wire went to battery along with the yellow. That way, my KC lights work independently of the headlights.

Mike

 

Sorry if this hijacks but does anyone know if the bulbs for Daylighters are interchangeable?

 

all depends on which ones you have. they make two different main ones, a sealed glass bulb that is all one piece or the one with the actual replaceable bulb.

as long as you arent trying to throw a 12volt light into a 24volt light, you should be ok

 

Does anyone have any pictures of where they mounted their relay for lights like these in a truck like mine (2004 5.4L Screw). Spent some time under the hood this afternoon and cant find a good place. Also, how did you get the wires from the engine compartment to the cab, whats the easiest way? Thanks

 

Here you go:

 

Perfect ... never thought of that housing, was spending most of my time looking at the wall between the cab and the engine compartment. Really appreciate the response!!

 

OK it looks like I need the electrical gurus again. I have followed the instructions and my lights dont work. This is what I did.

Mounted the relay to the back plastic cover of the battery and grouned it to a factory ground.



Then I ran the wires to the lights and attached them. Next I fed the wires into the cabin and attached them to the switch (sorry for the blur, camera is not that good at closeups)



then I attached the 2 power wires to the battery (white and yellow), put the fuses in and tried the lights. All of this was done with the negative terminal disconnected from the battery.



And voila .. no lights. They don't work with the truck on, don't work with the truck off. What am I missing??

Thanks

 

Update ... I figured out that each time I flip the switch to turn the lights on, its blowing the small 3A fuse that is coming from the white wire. any ideas?

 

where did you ground the lights to? don't need a guru, go get you a $10 test light, turn the lights on, and work your way back testing and seeing where the juice is and isn't.

simple. just DON'T over think it