I have just finished installing my TP E-Fans on my '03 f-150, and am a bit puzzled by the lack of power at the AC clutch wire ( grey/white stripe) under the power distribution box, with the ignition on and the control set to AC. Does the engine have to be running to get a signal to this wire? ( unfortunately I have feild stripped the engine compartment for other mods, and starting the engine to check this is highly inconvenient), Also, I would like to hear others' experiences about which thermostat temp. to use. Any help is appreciated.

 

If my questionable brain is working correct at the moment ( has not been the best today ) that is when the AC is actually running ( clutch engaged ).

I used the same lead on my '01 Screw, and when the AC was on, unless the clutch pulled in ( AC called for ) the fans would not run.

Sorry to say, but if I recall from 5 years ago, yes the engine needs to be running, and the AC actively running.

 

hopefully you didnt buy his (troyer's) imfamous copper mounting hardware

and yah the only other way you can test the function is just jumper wire the connector to make sure the fan actually comes on when the AC compressor is commanded on.
-Patrick

 

Have to agree with Pat on this one...

Given the probs others have had, best to get a set of nylon anchors from Summit or wherever.

You should leave the factory thermostat (192 F) in place for best power. Heavily modded, you can *possibly* go down to 180, but no lower. If I misread what you were asking, Efan controller turn-on temps are covered in the docs that comes with the kit. Do you have a point&shoot IR thermometer?

Cheers
Bubba

 

Thanks for the heads' up guys. And yes, after reading a lot of threads about the infamous copper rods, I did in fact use them, because I called every vendor in the state I could get the names of re: brackets to mount the fans, and either they didn't have them, or didn't know anything. I am not overly patient after bending over the front of my pickup for 3 days, sooooo--I installed the fans as per instructions I removed the radiator, centered the rods exactly between the tubes @ the useable mounting holes and pushed the filthy rods through the retainers, and my finger. I then checked to find that 3 of the rods had spread the speednuts inside the rubber retainers open too far, and were loose. A trip to the hardware store and 16 speednuts later, I crammed these nuts as backup, using a speednut driver to push them home, and a dowel as backup on the rod heads, and I'm here to tell you--these fans ain't goin' nowhere. I then took a vise grip, smashed the ends of the rods flat next to the nuts, clipped them off, and mixed a wad of 2-part epoxy and put a dollop on the end of each nut. Tell you what: If these SOBs come loose or the rods wear through the tubes I'll film a public personal consumption of the whole mess.

 

Yeah, I bit it and bought a nice IR thermometer. Used it last night on the wall heater and a few other things, then my wife. She didn't like the cold readout I guess, cause she spent the night on the couch. I'd read threads that indicated that the lower temp stats might yield better performance-that's why I asked. The auto parts store sold me a 195--didn't have a 192. Should I use it or punt and get a lower one. I,m installing a stage 2 kit.

 

195 should be good. Don't ever go to 180* t-stat, at least on the 1st and 2nd generation modular 5.4L engines.
The engine develops max HP in the 192 to 202 range, any lower t-stat temp, and < 80% TPS, and you will have a lower HP output.
The closed loop flow will not develop the max HP in the 180* range.
Given this is if the T-stat is opening and closing during use.
If you are in warm enough temps that the T-stat is always open, and the fans cycling, there is no difference in what the T-stat is set at to open.

What happens at TPS > 80% is up to the DMAP that is loaded on the truck.

This is why the settings for E-Fans are set to 1st fan or 60% speed ( Troyer or FAL ) to turn on at 202*, and the 2nd fan or 100% run cycle set at 212*.

Here is thread on the topic from some time ago:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=85257

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfrIsUGvSE8

As you can see just a single fan does more cooling then you think. The IR thermo is pointing at the temp probe for the controller i made. It was about 75* outside and truck was at normal operating temp. Ill do another similar video this summer once its warmer. And i might throw a second fan to help the AC system out.
-Patrick