the right way to tap into wires

Old Dec 22, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #31  
Bluegrass's Avatar
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From: Easton, Pa.
I hope i'm one of the three on your list because I get tired of the same things thread after thread, every time someone say something that is even is hint of being disagreed with with no tolerence shown.
I don't enjoy being berated anymore than anyone else.
Matter of fact I never use the quote option because a I feel it is used all to often for 'insult purposes' and does not help at all.
I don't use a list on any board, to hide behind.
Doing so, is never a way to improve anything, in reality.
People still end up with the same additudes so nothing changes.
And by the way; my replies are certinaly not related to this original thread as it was started, but deteroration into this for the reasons as brought forth above makes it game for me to also express my opinion , like it or not.
Sometimes I give kicks in the a$$ to get someones attention when they need it.
They either cool down or hate me more. At least each ones position is then known.
 

Last edited by Bluegrass; Dec 22, 2006 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 01:40 PM
  #32  
SSCULLY's Avatar
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
I hope i'm one of the three on your list..<snip>..
No, but now you are #4.

You are just a post ***** with 3 posts in the thread, that had nothing to do with the topic.

All Bow to the mighty kicker of @sses., and self proclaimed thread equalizer.

AND :
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
For some of these threads to just keep on with useless bannter is usually recognized for what it is USELESS because some body wants attention to often.:santa:
...<snip>...
Sometimes I give kicks in the a$$ to get someones attention when they need it
YEs, this is correct, you are the attention grabber....just posting away for no reason..

And the quoting is not for the reason that you use it. I use Quotes as a way answering points...then again I'm not you.... THANKGOD !
 

Last edited by SSCULLY; Dec 22, 2006 at 01:46 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #33  
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From: Easton, Pa.
Good. Now we fully understand each other.
Be sure and not answer; now that i'm on your list.
Merry Christmas
 

Last edited by Bluegrass; Dec 22, 2006 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 12:03 AM
  #34  
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First of all, I would like to apologize if I missed something in the previous posts... I read all of them, but there were so many that I think I got a little confused

I was just attempting to add some lights in the bed area of my truck today (06 SuperCrew). I have a couple of LEDs, and a tilt sensor switch mounted to the endgate, so it will act similar to that of a trunk on a car.

I've never done any wiring before. I called my ford dealer and they said that there's a always hot wire to the trailer adapter, and also to the tailights. I couldn't figure out which wire to use from the taillights, so I decided to go off of the trailer connection. On the cover it shows what the connections are, Orange +, White -. I assumed this was simple enough, so I connected the wires to these, and it didn't work. Since I think my truck has a negative ground, I assumed I could connect my negative wire to the frame, but that didn't work either. I also tried with the key on, and that didn't work.

In my mind, this should be something that should be simple, right? Just completing a circuit? What am I missing?

Mike
 
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 12:25 AM
  #35  
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by mikeps34
..<snip>...I called my ford dealer and they said that there's a always hot wire to the trailer adapter, and also to the tailights.
Your Ford dealer is half correct.
The tail lights, that is an easy one, when the main headlamp switch is in the park or headlamp position, the Brown Wire is +12V. You might see this called Circuit #14. Black is ground, also called circuit #57.

As for the "always hot" in the 7 pin, if he is talking about the trailer tow battery charge circuit ( orange wire ) that is only hot when the key is in the run position. The feed to the Trailer Tow Battery Relay Normally Open Contacts is always hot, but these contacts are closed when the relay coil is energized by the ign key in the run position. So long story just a bit longer, the orange wire is only hot when the key is in the run position.

Originally Posted by mikeps34
..<snip>...On the cover it shows what the connections are, Orange +, White -. I assumed this was simple enough, so I connected the wires to these, and it didn't work. Since I think my truck has a negative ground, I assumed I could connect my negative wire to the frame, but that didn't work either. I also tried with the key on, and that didn't work. ...<snip>..
With the key on, that should have been it. Thought the Trailer Tow Battery Charge relay and fuses are installed from the factory. The only add in is the Trailer Brake Relay on the '06 ( maybe '04 & '05 ). The '01-'03 there were more to install, I think ( that was 5 + years ago ).

7 Pin Wiring Diagram :


RP just did the same thing a few days ago, maybe take a look at his thread, with 3 different options on where to get the power from for the bed lights.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...=264315&page=2

This includes the wiring diagrams for the 2006 Trailer Tow adapter, and which relay and fuses need to be installed, and operational.

As to why yours did nto work, did you verify the polarity of the LEDs ? I don't know which one you got, but there is a polarity to a LED, and they should be marked. If not, reverse the leads, to see if they were installed backwards. ?
Always try the Meter check to the Org / White combo. The White wire on the 7 pin adapter converts to the Circuit # 57 ( noted above for the parking lamsp ground) prior to attaching to the frame ( RP's thread shows where this is at ).

If this does not work, maybe try a new thread, to see if you get mroe replies, as an idea.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 01:43 AM
  #36  
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thanks for the quick reply...

Sorry again. In the process of getting registered, I accidentally posted to the wrong thread. I appreciate the speedy help.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 01:37 PM
  #37  
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
It's worth mentioning that there's a 7-pin trailer connector (round terminals) as well as a 7-blade connector (flat terminals), and that they're not necessarily wired the same. Make sure you're using the correct pinout diagram for the connector you have. Ford has used both in the past - IDK what they're doing nowadays.

However, I wouldn't wire it to that trailer circuit since it could get confusing later if you have to troubleshoot it. I'd tap into either the Park circuit (Br) if you only want them on when your lights are on, or the Demand Lighting circuit (LG/Y on Fords without an LCM; LG/Or on those WITH an LCM) to protect your battery. I assume all '06s have an LCM, and even though it might not have ALL the same function as this, its pinout should be identical to this one.

 
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 09:56 PM
  #38  
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From: The Bluegrass State
Not sure how I missed this thread...

First and foremost, I don't tolerate stupidity on the forums. Secondly, I CERTAINLY don't tolerate name-calling or innuendos of the such.

Consider this a blanket warning... those of you who posted within this forum with derogatory material know who I'm talking to...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:57 PM
  #39  
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What about the goopy stuff?

I like heat shrink for stuff, but I remember using a 3M product when in the Navy to seal up connections. It had the consistency of that plumber's putty that comes in a can. In fact, it looked a lot like it, but hardened. Does anybody know what that stuff was called? Seems like it was Scotch-something. (Isn't all 3M stuff Scotch-something?)

Dave
 
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 08:23 PM
  #40  
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There are different brands of brush on tape in a can. (Performix "LIQUID TAPE") and others. I saw some today at Home Depot in electrical dept.
I use at least 2 coats. Make sure no strands are sticking out, it will not cover that.
It will dry in the can after a year or two........
 
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