Always "HOT" Power @ the Rear of the Truck? 2005 F-150
#17
12-12-2006, 03:42 PM
#18
12-12-2006, 03:45 PM
Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
RP, I installed some rope lights on a regular old pin switch in the back of Skagel's truck years ago. (the switch was out of a '90 Ranger... any auto parts store should have them) I mounted the standard 12V pin switch to the mounting frame of the ARE lid right at the back. I drilled two holes in a piece of angle iron, mounted the switch in one and pop-rivited the bracket to the cover's frame. I also installed a 2-wire plug so one could disconnect the switch if/when that cover was ever removed. (although I highly doubt that bed will ever see the light of day :rolleyes )
As for the power source, as everyone mentioned, there is no hot source back there. However, I ran a separate pair of wires in the same piece of split tubing as the power tailgate lock since I had to fish that back there anyways. I fed it from a fuse connected to the starter solenoid on the firewall. The wire ran from the solenoid, up into the channel that hid the rest of the loom across the top of the firewall, then down the driver's side with the OEM loom, and along the outside of the frame rail to the tailgate. I've never been under an '04-up, but I would suspect there is a similar OEM loom for the trailer towing, taillights, and fuel pump harness.
At the back, I ran the wiring up behind the taillight and made all the connections out of the weather and stashed them behind the taillight out of sight. I also attached the wiring and the lights right to the ARE's frame, again, so should it ever be removed, the lights went too. I fished the wiring through the hollow frame between the switch and the first light, and ran the wiring in a loom across the front of the ARE frame at the front of the bed, again, so it was out of sight.
If you contact her, she may be willing to snap a few pictures of it. Regretfully, I never snagged any pictures of my workmanship.
-Joe
edit: Another thought: If you wanted always hot power at the back of the truck with the key off, you could replace the trailer tow relay with an identical one that was normally closed instead of normally open. The lights would always be out with the key on and always have power with the key off. The other option would be to bypass the relay all together and just use a couple of spade connectors to jump the appropriate terminals on the plug where the TT relay connects. (I have a co-worker who did that to power the light in his cap) The only drawback is that if you ever pulled a trailer that used that lighting circuit, it would be able to run the truck's battery dead as the trailer would no longer be isolated from the truck when the key is off.
As for the power source, as everyone mentioned, there is no hot source back there. However, I ran a separate pair of wires in the same piece of split tubing as the power tailgate lock since I had to fish that back there anyways. I fed it from a fuse connected to the starter solenoid on the firewall. The wire ran from the solenoid, up into the channel that hid the rest of the loom across the top of the firewall, then down the driver's side with the OEM loom, and along the outside of the frame rail to the tailgate. I've never been under an '04-up, but I would suspect there is a similar OEM loom for the trailer towing, taillights, and fuel pump harness.
At the back, I ran the wiring up behind the taillight and made all the connections out of the weather and stashed them behind the taillight out of sight. I also attached the wiring and the lights right to the ARE's frame, again, so should it ever be removed, the lights went too. I fished the wiring through the hollow frame between the switch and the first light, and ran the wiring in a loom across the front of the ARE frame at the front of the bed, again, so it was out of sight.
If you contact her, she may be willing to snap a few pictures of it. Regretfully, I never snagged any pictures of my workmanship.
-Joe
edit: Another thought: If you wanted always hot power at the back of the truck with the key off, you could replace the trailer tow relay with an identical one that was normally closed instead of normally open. The lights would always be out with the key on and always have power with the key off. The other option would be to bypass the relay all together and just use a couple of spade connectors to jump the appropriate terminals on the plug where the TT relay connects. (I have a co-worker who did that to power the light in his cap) The only drawback is that if you ever pulled a trailer that used that lighting circuit, it would be able to run the truck's battery dead as the trailer would no longer be isolated from the truck when the key is off.
I may fire her a quick email to see if she can snare a pic or two for me. I think, though, I've resigned to simply running a wire off of the fuse block... with my limited 'electrical knowledge' and planning strategy, I think it may be the most simplistic and realistic way for me -- the electrical buffoon -- to do it.
Thanks again though, bud. I really appreciate your help!
#19
12-12-2006, 03:48 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Easton, Kansas
Posts: 639
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To make the ORANGE wire hot at all times just pull out the relay and crimp two small spade connectors on a short piece of wire and plug the wire in place of the relay.
Here is a diagram:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...2005Orange.jpg
Here is a diagram:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...2005Orange.jpg
#20
12-12-2006, 08:18 PM
#21
12-12-2006, 09:40 PM
Originally Posted by RockPick
Thanks dude. I sincerely appreciate your help! You may have had this all installed when I met you guys down @ the campground? I seem to recall something like this -- maybe not.
I may fire her a quick email to see if she can snare a pic or two for me. I think, though, I've resigned to simply running a wire off of the fuse block... with my limited 'electrical knowledge' and planning strategy, I think it may be the most simplistic and realistic way for me -- the electrical buffoon -- to do it.
Thanks again though, bud. I really appreciate your help!
I may fire her a quick email to see if she can snare a pic or two for me. I think, though, I've resigned to simply running a wire off of the fuse block... with my limited 'electrical knowledge' and planning strategy, I think it may be the most simplistic and realistic way for me -- the electrical buffoon -- to do it.
Thanks again though, bud. I really appreciate your help!
You'd be killing the switching functionality of the relay when you use the jumper, but you can always pull the jumper and replace the relay if you need the switched power at the trailer plug when you tow. It's a 30-second swap. It would just mean that the key would have to be on for the bed lights to work when the relay is installed, that's all. A bit inconvenient those dozen times a year, but no biggie.
-Joe
#22
12-12-2006, 09:54 PM
Crap... sorry about that man. Didn't mean to get you confused... it's just been a long time since all of that ... assumptions... you know how it goes. Again, very sorry.
Thanks for the insight on the jumper. I don't think I want to do that -- I'd rather just leave the jumper in there and not have to worry about it from a towing standpoint -- although, it is minimal that the truck is utilized for towing / trailer brakes.
So, since I guess I've decided to run from the fuse block to the rear of the vehicle... which fuse would be the best bet to run the show in the rear of the truck?
Thanks again!!!!
Thanks for the insight on the jumper. I don't think I want to do that -- I'd rather just leave the jumper in there and not have to worry about it from a towing standpoint -- although, it is minimal that the truck is utilized for towing / trailer brakes.
So, since I guess I've decided to run from the fuse block to the rear of the vehicle... which fuse would be the best bet to run the show in the rear of the truck?
Thanks again!!!!
#23
12-13-2006, 07:55 AM
Originally Posted by RockPick
Crap... sorry about that man. Didn't mean to get you confused... it's just been a long time since all of that ... assumptions... you know how it goes. Again, very sorry.
Thanks for the insight on the jumper. I don't think I want to do that -- I'd rather just leave the jumper in there and not have to worry about it from a towing standpoint -- although, it is minimal that the truck is utilized for towing / trailer brakes.
So, since I guess I've decided to run from the fuse block to the rear of the vehicle... which fuse would be the best bet to run the show in the rear of the truck?
Thanks again!!!!
In case it wasn't clear, the jumper won't affect the trailer brakes. It'll only affect the trailer charging circuit. If the trailer has a battery and stays plugged into the truck when at the camp site, the trailer could run the truck's battery down. By the same token, you could use the trailer's battery charger as a trickle charger for the truck too, but only when the trailer is plugged into the campground power.
I'm with you though.... running a separate circuit from the battery is, by far, the best option. 10 or 12-gauge wire, fuse next to the battery (or solenoid on the firewall), and a straight shot down the frame rail, and you've got all the power you could want. (Up to 20A anyways) Make sure the wire is secured and chafe-protected. You can buy a spool of split loom pretty cheap, and they make some nice colored ones if you wanted to do something different.
Also, I forgot to mention before that I'm never a fan of those fuse taps... they just serve to add additional load to existing circuitry, most of which is already operating at 50% or more. If you're talking 2A, it's generally just fine. If you're talking 20A (e.g. an air compressor) in the bed, you're always better off running a separate independent circuit.
-Joe
#24
12-13-2006, 10:06 AM
RP,
I've got to agree on running from the battery (with a fuse or breaker) as opposed to the fuse box thing. That's why I mentioned it earlier. If it was just tapping in for your LED bed lights, that's one thing. One never knows what you'll plug into that lighter plug though. Heck, the first time you plug in that compressor to add some air to your Inflate-a-Date, you might blow the fuse to your ECM in the middle of nowhere and have to hitch a ride home. Imagine explaining that one.
I've got to agree on running from the battery (with a fuse or breaker) as opposed to the fuse box thing. That's why I mentioned it earlier. If it was just tapping in for your LED bed lights, that's one thing. One never knows what you'll plug into that lighter plug though. Heck, the first time you plug in that compressor to add some air to your Inflate-a-Date, you might blow the fuse to your ECM in the middle of nowhere and have to hitch a ride home. Imagine explaining that one.
#25
12-13-2006, 10:13 AM
Thanks again Joe. I really appreciate your insight and input.
I think I'm just going to go with something very simple -- like a fuse tap and only run one wire. For the life of me, I can't think of an instance where I'd want anything else back there. For what it's worth, if I do, I can always belly up to the bar and go a little greater distance -- albeit a PITA -- to run one from the battery.
These LEDs pull a minimal amount of juice and thus, a 2A pull is probably on the 'high' side of the scenario.
I think I'm just going to go with something very simple -- like a fuse tap and only run one wire. For the life of me, I can't think of an instance where I'd want anything else back there. For what it's worth, if I do, I can always belly up to the bar and go a little greater distance -- albeit a PITA -- to run one from the battery.
These LEDs pull a minimal amount of juice and thus, a 2A pull is probably on the 'high' side of the scenario.
#26
12-13-2006, 10:15 AM
Originally Posted by 2stroked
...Heck, the first time you plug in that compressor to add some air to your Inflate-a-Date, you might blow the fuse to your ECM in the middle of nowhere and have to hitch a ride home. Imagine explaining that one.
#27
12-13-2006, 12:31 PM
#30
12-13-2006, 09:56 PM
