i need help really bad. i was hooking up lights on my truck with a toggle switch and when i hooked the battery up smoke came rolling out of my trucks cab. i checked to see what happened and the wires i hooked up fried. the bad part is i put the power wire in the #15 fuse location and it fried the socket. my truck starts fine but it will not lot me shift out of park, kinda like it is locked in park. i need to know what i messed up or any suggestions because i am out of a vehicle.

 

Check all fuzes to begin with. You may have hooked up directly to a hot wire and had no inline fuze. may have fried some of the fuzes.

good luck.

 

i checked all fuses under the dash and the hood and none of them are blown. the fuse that was in the socket melted. i cannot shift out of park and also my interior dome light and my 3rd brake light doesnt work. i havent tested anything else.

 

Did you replace the one that melted?

 

yea i replaced it with the recommended amperage and still nothing

 

Fuse 15 in the CJB ( Central Junction Box , i.e. insdie the cab ) ?

This is the PCM fuse. The fuse you installed must be good and working, else the truck won't start without the PCM.

You will need to stick your head up behind the dash, to see if you melted anything past what you added on, or if the CJB fuse took care of them.

Once test:
1. Apply the brakes
2. turn the truck from off, to the run position ( don't start it ),
3. Shift the truck from Park to Neutral.
3.1. All this time you had the brakes applied
4. Try starting the truck with it in Neutral.

If this works ( or if I got the procedure correct ) you are having a problem with the brake Circuit ( needed to shift out of Park ), and you need to check the fuse #13 in the CJB 15 AMP for the RABS module, Brake ON/OFF switch, Brake pressure switch ( as long as you are sure you were on fuse #15, not actually fuse #13 for your added circuit, they are the 2nd from the end for #13, and 4th from the end for #15 ). The other fuse to check is the fuse # 18 in the CJB, this is for Stop lamps ( as well as other things ).
when you pull the fuse to check it, take a meter, and make sure the power to the fuse side of the CJB is still good, and maybe just replacing these is a better idea.


If you check your brake lights, they might also not be working ( this could be why you cannot shift out of park, the brakes must be on for you to shift from Park to any gear ).

 

Those devices all run off F13 in the underdash fusebox.

Check the fuse, check its supply with a meter or test lamp. With the fuse removed, one of the terminals should be always hot.

Steve

 

thanks for the help. if any of this is bad what am i gonna have to replace? just a sensor or a module or worst a new harness?

 

Don't know, what testing have you done so far ?

Kind of need to know what, if anything, is broken prior to pontificating about what needs to be replaced.

 

i havent tested anything yet. i dont know what to test so i dont want to just start testing and have the chance to screw it up more. from what i can see there are no wires or anything burned/melted just the wires i installed which i promptly removed. from what i can see there is no damage which makes me believe maybe a relay or a sensor got destroyed. i am going to try the advice that was given to me on here and if that doesnt work i dont know what to do.

 

Don't know what to test ???? Did you read the posts #6 & #7 above ?
Did you try the no start shift interlock testing, to see if that works, not much you can screw up there, unless you take your foot of the brake pedal, and get out, and the truck rolls over you. ( which BTW, is why I told you to have your foot on the brake pedal the WHOLE time ).

Did you look to see if you had brake lamps ? ( nothing there you can screw up, you can't get the truck out of park, so you can accidently back over the person checking the brake lamps for you )

Did you check the fuses in the fuse box ? Pull the fuse, check both sides of the fuse box with a meter to ground ( by meter I mean meter, not a piece of wire, so not much you can screw up there ).

Did you put new from a new package of fuses in the locations that were asked of you in posts #6 & #7 ? They only go in one way ( actually 2, but they are both ok ), so not much you can screw up there, it is not like you can put it in upside down like a ball joint if you are not paying attention.

Well, we need to start the testing somewhere, and the info in posts #6 & #7 are a good place to start at.
Steve and myself gave some test points we are waiting for an answer on, to help you with your problem.
Why do you feel the need to skip the testing items above, and want to jump right to a sensor or relay, when you don't even know if the fuses and the fuse sockets are in good working order.
A relay or a sensor will not work without power, so can we at least figure out if the relay or sensor is getting power ? ( that is an example, I am not saying there actually is a relay or a sensor in what we are testing at the moment ).

Can we find out if that does or does not work, prior to moving to the next step ?

 

ok i have been at work all day so i havent had a chance to test it but i am heading home so i will some tests and repost later, thanks for the help

 

ok i did the turn key to run position and shift test and it worked but if the key is turned on completly it will not shift out of park. i replaced fuse 13, 15, and 18 all were good, not blown. i tested the sockets themselves for power and i have power on one side in socket 13 and 15 however socket 18 i dont have power but the dash lights turn on so i dont understand that. i did the recommened tests any ideas now. the windows still wont go up and the interior lights are still not working as well as it not shifting out of park like it is supposed to. thanks again for the help but where do i go from here?

 

Ok, the interlock is not working correctly, did you check for brake lights ?
You say your CHMSL does not work, what about the stop lamps in the S/T/T housing ?
If the trailer adapter ( 4 pin or 7 pin ) does not have Stop lamps, and the 2 S/T/T housing don't sounds like the Brake on/off switch is giving you grief. That is why I asked to confirm if the S/T/T stop lamps worked. This points to somewhere between fuse #13 to the BOO switch is a problem. ?
If the normal S/T/T housing lamps work, the next fuse to check is CJB Fuse # 6. This fuse is for Cluster, Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid, Rear Air Suspension Module, GEM Module. The GEM controls the windows ( the add on problem ) for function like Auto Down, etc. Couple the existing noted problems, with the power windows don't work, and this fuse also needs to be checked.
When you were checking for melted wires, did you look around under the dash at more then just what you installed ?
Need to know if the harness from the top of the brake pedal along the line to the fuse box is melted / damaged.
Maybe taking a meter to the pins on the BOO switch, check the light green with a red stripe wire for power. That is the circuit that feeds the BOO switch, and the light green wire from it, feeds the CHMSL and the shift lock actuator, among other things ( GEM, RABS module, 4WABS module, etc ).

Fuse # 18 does not have power on either pin ? If not, check fuse #6 in the BJB, this feeds the CJB fuse # 18. Do you have workng head lamps ?
I hope there are not 2 wires melted together behind the CJB, but we will worry about that later, right now we need to track down what fuses are bad, and why the interlock and windows are not working correctly.

While you are in the BJB ( BTW, BJB = Battery Junction Box = Under hood ) check the maxi fuses ( replace ) # 111, 50 AMP #115, 50 AMP, and #103, 50 AMP. These feed start, run, and accy circuits and part of the BJB fuse panel.

Windows don't work....that is something new. Anything else you forgot to add to the list of does not work. having this changed where I would have had you look in the first place, which is in the BJB, and CJB fuse #6, vs fuse #13.

 

thanks i will check into it and let you know the results. you have been a great help