2000 F150 Power Door Lock Problems
#31
I find it rather interesting as to why local shops have a cost of $30+ for the actuator's as the "Black Widow (pdl-55)" looks even to be much better quality then the counter parts for less then $12..
Very odd but at least we all know what the cause is and how to fix it..
Civic/Scootin
Very odd but at least we all know what the cause is and how to fix it..
Civic/Scootin
#32
Hell my local shop wanted $78 just for 1 ball joint..
Picked one up at my local store for less then $20..
Funny how the price is so damn different from shops to retail..
One of the joys of doing things your self I guess (saves money plus you also put more respect into what you had fixed)..
.................................
Back to subject..
Anyone know if BestBuy is still selling those Black Widow actuator's?..
I have looked at there site and there not listed..
I am stating this as some users here said they found them at BB once before..
Hate to drive all the way into town just to see they no longer carry them..
Plus no CC may way so buying online is a no go..
Later,
Civic/Scootin
#33
Update #3 or so.
I started this thread a long time ago and ended up purchasing some cheap eBay actuators that worked great right out of the box but only lasted about 8 months. Now, I'm in need of replacing the door actuator on my passenger side yet again. I've become very good at doing this but the fact that I keep having to do this makes my head ache.
So, I'm not buying the cheapo eBay actuators this time. Does anyone have suggestions other than a dealer? Can't I buy OEM parts elsewhere?
Mike
So, I'm not buying the cheapo eBay actuators this time. Does anyone have suggestions other than a dealer? Can't I buy OEM parts elsewhere?
Mike
#39
i have a 2006 f150 im working on... the power doors locks dont lock but unlock fine from both the driver and passenger side switches... i thought it was the switch cuz when I hit lock on the driver side door, both door locks didn't respond, but unlock worked... So I went to the passenger side and the same thing... hit lock and nothing happened.. but unlock worked... is it possible I have 2 bad actuators at the same time?
#40
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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2 bad at the same time, is in the category of possible but not probable.
Edit :
Actually gave an answer this time in the other thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/4585450-post43.html
Sorry about the unless stupid answer here, phone rang, got to keep the lights on
Edit :
Actually gave an answer this time in the other thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/4585450-post43.html
Sorry about the unless stupid answer here, phone rang, got to keep the lights on
Last edited by SSCULLY; 05-10-2011 at 09:00 AM. Reason: 1st answer useless - what a dope I am
#42
Not sure but I think everything goes through the driver side first, so I would check the d/s switch.
My kid's bronco had window issues and the rear wouldn't roll down, we replaced the driver side window motor and switch (separate issue) and the rear worked perfect after that. IDK if there is a connection but SSCULLY could verify or flag as b/s.
My kid's bronco had window issues and the rear wouldn't roll down, we replaced the driver side window motor and switch (separate issue) and the rear worked perfect after that. IDK if there is a connection but SSCULLY could verify or flag as b/s.
#43
Join Date: Jun 2002
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From the other thread it is a 2006.
What trim level is it ?
Does it have the factory RKE ?
Quick test is to pull a door panel, and check the connector to the PDL actuator with a meter, when you lock the door, the voltage should read one way, and when you unlock the polarity will be reversed.
If this tests OK, it is the lock actuators on both sides.
If this does not test OK, somewhere along the lines the unlock circuit from both doors to the VSM ( vehicle security Module ) is broken.
Best place to start is at the VSM itself, which is mounted on the back cab wall ( behind the seat for the SCab & SCrew ). Directions in the technical articles section on how to remove the rear seat back.
When you have the seat back off, the VSM has 2 connectors
3008A is a blue 16 pin ( 2 x 8 rows )
3008B is a green 16 pin ( 2x 8 rows )
3008B is what the lock and unlock circuits are in.
The lock switches are switching ground to one of the 2 circuits so the VSM knows what to do with the PDL.
Use a meter to test for ground when pressing the unlock button on the Pink w/ Light Green stripe wire on C3008B. This is a common wire to both PDL switches.
It should not be the lock & unlock circuit itself, as the polarity is reversed on the same 2 wires to operate the doors. If one side was broken, either direction would work.
Sorry about the short answer in the other thread, I was starting this long diatribe when a work call came in. Sorry work does come first, got to keep the lights on
What trim level is it ?
Does it have the factory RKE ?
Quick test is to pull a door panel, and check the connector to the PDL actuator with a meter, when you lock the door, the voltage should read one way, and when you unlock the polarity will be reversed.
If this tests OK, it is the lock actuators on both sides.
If this does not test OK, somewhere along the lines the unlock circuit from both doors to the VSM ( vehicle security Module ) is broken.
Best place to start is at the VSM itself, which is mounted on the back cab wall ( behind the seat for the SCab & SCrew ). Directions in the technical articles section on how to remove the rear seat back.
When you have the seat back off, the VSM has 2 connectors
3008A is a blue 16 pin ( 2 x 8 rows )
3008B is a green 16 pin ( 2x 8 rows )
3008B is what the lock and unlock circuits are in.
The lock switches are switching ground to one of the 2 circuits so the VSM knows what to do with the PDL.
Use a meter to test for ground when pressing the unlock button on the Pink w/ Light Green stripe wire on C3008B. This is a common wire to both PDL switches.
It should not be the lock & unlock circuit itself, as the polarity is reversed on the same 2 wires to operate the doors. If one side was broken, either direction would work.
Sorry about the short answer in the other thread, I was starting this long diatribe when a work call came in. Sorry work does come first, got to keep the lights on
#44
Thanx very much... I will check all that... it's the base trim level, and no RKE... and I do understand about the work thing... I really appreciate your time.... I used to be a light duty tech at a Ford dealer but since then, they have changed the way all the electrical works... My buddy over there had told me he had seen all 5 actuators go bad at the same time on an Expedition some years back... That's the reason for the question about the actuators; that made no sense to me either... haha... Well, thanx again...
#45
Not sure but I think everything goes through the driver side first, so I would check the d/s switch.
My kid's bronco had window issues and the rear wouldn't roll down, we replaced the driver side window motor and switch (separate issue) and the rear worked perfect after that. IDK if there is a connection but SSCULLY could verify or flag as b/s.
My kid's bronco had window issues and the rear wouldn't roll down, we replaced the driver side window motor and switch (separate issue) and the rear worked perfect after that. IDK if there is a connection but SSCULLY could verify or flag as b/s.