trying to replace driver's door switch, have old one out, can't see what position new one needs to be in to twist into position.

 

a little vehicle info might help.

 

2000 F150 Ext cab. Replacing lock acuator and door switch, have both out, but can't see what position the switch needs to be in to push up and twist.

 

Dont have any pointers, but when you complete the task fill me in on all the details of where you got them, the cost and how many times you cut your fingers . It looks as though I have that very same project on my 2000 SCab

 

door switch? the one in the latch what turns off the dome light or the power lock/window switch.

 

The acuators were $48.95 each and the switch was about $9.00. Ford mechanic friend told me how to stick a med regular screwdriver in the slot in the bottom of the pin receiver of the door, and pry the actuator toward the indide of the truck to get it out. once I did that, the switch was visible inside the door, attached to the bottom of the latch. I believed it twisted to the right, where the actuator was, and pushed down to get it out.

Having a difficult time, tight space with big forearms, trying to push it up in there, then twisting. I think that's they way it's supposed to go anyway.

 

lees99f150 - It's the dome light switch that attaches to the bottom of the latch assembly inside the door. The one everyone usually gets by squirting WD40 into. Mine was worn out.

 

Landyacht'00: Got-er done. If you have to do this to yours, here's what I found:

I previously posted what i paid for the parts, I saw another post that said the acuators were only $40 at www.fordpartsonline.com.

First, remove the door panels by popping the trim off behind the window and removing the philips screw. Next, pop the trim off around the interior door handle and remove the phillips behind it. Then, pop up the section of the armrest with the switches in it and turn it to feed into the hole. Lift the whole door panel up a couple inches and it should come off. Before you extend the door panel very far, remove the courtesy lamp socket from the door by twisting it. Now you should be able to set the panel out of the way and peel the paper back to get to the inside of the door.

As my friend said, removing the acuators was easier by sticking a medium regular screwdriver into the latch from the outside. When you stick the screwdriver in, trip the latch like it is closing on the pin. once you do that, there's a slot in the latch on the bottom, at the back, that you stick the screwdriver into. Next, pry the actuator towards the inside of the truck. This will actually break the retaining clip on the old actuator and the clip will fall inside the door, letting you remove the actuator and unplug it.

The problem I was having was with the switch. Once I had removed the actuator, I turned the switch and it came out; the angle of the connector make's it "L" shaped. Once I got it out, I couldn'y get the new one in. You can see that it has a barb that's made to push up into a slot, then turn to lock it in.

I found it easy to remove the three 27mm torx screws that hold the latch to the door, then remove the linkage to the inside lock plunger, then remove the two nuts, inside the door, that hold the exterior door handle on. From the outside, I then lifted the whole latch assembly far enough outside the door that I could see how to stick the switch into the hole and twist it counter-clockwise into place. I then fed the whole thing back into place, bolted it back down, connected the wire connector to the switch, then installed the new actuator. I then reattached the wire connector and linkage to the actuator and put it all back together.

Hope that helps you.

Don

 

Excellent description of the procedure sharkone. Thanks. I now see why everyone tries the WD-40 method to get the switch working. Hopefully that will cure mine. Otherwise, I'll be tearing it apart this weekend like you did.

 

Thanks Erik. Hopefully, the WD40 worked for you. If not, maybe my description helped.