2000 F150 LARIET 4X4 93k miles. The driver side one touch windown down got stuck open, had to change the motor ($250.00) at PEP boys. I never noticed before a clicking sound coming from the relay, only after the window would not work. Now it's still clicking even after the motor was replaced. I got another relay and it still clicks. Swapped with the passenger side and it still clicks?? any ideas??

Thanks

 

I having the exact same problem...clicking noise made in relay position number 4 of the fuse box in my 99 F150. My drivers side window was in the down position and wouldn't come up or operate. I also switched the two relays and clicking noise persisted. I suggest that you change out your one touch power window switch, it resolved my problem.

Good luck!

 

Hey Fletch57. If you happen to see this, is your window still working? My 99 F150 driver window has been stuck up for a couple of months, am encouraged to read about your switch solution. This seems to be an almost epidemic problem on the 1998-2000 year models, I'm seeing quite a few threads. Anyone know of any TSBs on this?

 

Just an FYI in case someone else is having this problem. On my 2000 f150 xlt I found a group of wires shorted to the inside of the drivers door right behind the speaker. The wire bundle chaffes against a door frame member and for me cut into the window wire going to the other side and took out the expensive drivers side switch. It was very intermittent and I thought it was the switch all along. Real easy to check those wires.

ricochet

 

Ricochet,

This is really good info! But I would assume in your case (with the burned up switch) that you would not have been getting the clicking from the relay when pressing the switch - as described in the previous posts. Tracking down the shorted wire bundle was really good detective work. Did you replace the switch, only to have the new switch burn up, and then track it to the shorted wire bundle (which would have been a little expensive, but I'm sure Ford would have liked that aspect of it), or did you find the short first?


BTW - I still have not solved my problem and am still driving around with the door panel removed. But I am convinced that my problem is a bad window motor, I just haven't had time to order another (~ $100 from the local Auto Zoo). I also don't want to remove the old one (it's riveted in, so have to first drill out the rivets), only to have the window fall into the down position. Therefore I have to have the new motor on hand before starting the repair. Since we're getting into summer, looks like this will be a summer project for me!

Thanks,
Ron

 

Hey Ron,

We're sorta in the same place at this point. At this point I have a passenger side window stuck in the closed position with the door panel off too. As far as the short and switch goes I found the short while dignosing the directional problem. The brown/blue wire from the drivers switch for the passenger window switch was shorted to metal along with the green/white directional mirror wire. I have yet to replace the switch. The portions of it internally for the passenger door are fried right out of it.

When I operate the passenger side window switch on the passenger side door I get a mild click and slightly dimming lights only when trying the up position. I get nothing at all when trying down. I don't know whether to attribute this to the dirivers side switch being fried or a bad or stuck motor. Last night I tried the tapping of the motor bit to no avail. Next I'll meter out the two wires going to it to see if I get current both ways. If no current for the down position then it's probably just the other switch which I have to replace anyhow. Does anyone know if there is any harm in using the current from the up side wire to try the motor in the down mode? Using cross jumpers at the connector?

Just how do you pull this motor on a 2000 f150? There's 6 heavy duty rivets but I read in here somewhere about drilling out 3 drill dimples to access 3 bolts. I only see 2 dimples.

ricochet

 

Hello All,
I apparently have a similar problem to the ones mentioned here, only I am having a few more technical issues. I own a 2001 Ford F150 XLT Longbed and right now, I have blown 2 of the same fuses in the last 3 days, number 15. It is a 5 Amp fuse and I have now had to buy two replacements. I noticed this problem when I got into my truck to roll my windows up before a storm [lucky me] and neither window would roll up. It was still daylight out at the time, so I did not notice that my interior light was also not working, nor did I notice that the open-door bell was not ringing. Ok, so I worked with a friend and found that one of the fuses was blown, as I suspected (no thanks to that damn owner's manual failing to mention the fuse that operates the power windows! POS!!! Lot of good that damn book does!) The only reason we found the blown fuse is because we removed every single fuse to do it! JOY! Ok, so we replace it and I think everything is peachy. 3 days later, I go to get into my truck and I cannot roll my windows down. I looked at the fuse once more and sure enough, it was blown again. OK, no big deal. I just slid my sliding rear window open and [tried] to be on my way. This is when I noticed that my truck would not shift into gear! So I get the bright idea to use a 7.5 amp fuse just to get the vehicle into gear and then yank it back out, so I head on down the highway. Now, I get the same friend to help me with his machine that reads the voltage in each unit and there is nothing in my truck that apparently makes anything go even near the 5 amps, even when I run everything all at once. Go figure! The problem apparently occurs after I have shut off my engine because it works fine when its running, but I always turn it off and come back to it to find that same fuse blown.

The part of my story that relates to the relay switches is that I have two relays that make that sound and that is relay number 1 and number 2 under the steering column. So I figure one of those switches might be bad and yank the first one. That switch only operates the auto-down feature of the power windows, so no big deal to me. I have that second fuse in my truck now and am hoping to determine from the removal of the switch that the fuse will or will not blow. If I manage to determine that the switch is bad from this experiment, I will respond to this post again.

Now that I have mentioned all the problems involved with my "window" deal, is anyone else experiencing all these issues? I am thinking my truck is power-surging, but want to know if this problem has been experienced a lot by anyone else?

 

Hello, apparently ,it is not a bad relay that caused the fuse to blow. The fuse took longer to blow this time [6 days vice 3] but it still blew, even without Relay 1 being in the truck at the time. The fuse only had a hairline fracture this time versus having a major chunk missing from it other times, so perhaps the relay is only part of the problem, just not the entire problem as I had hoped [nothing is ever simple or cheap that way!] The wipers are also part of the fuse problem [POS Owner's Manuel!!!], I found out this morning as I got into the truck and tried to turn them on without success, causing me to look at the fuse, yet again. So I have an appointment at the dealer this afternoon and they are going to look things over. I will post again once I find anything else out. Hopefully, my problems and possible solutions can help you guys out in this particular forum? V/r, Stangpride

 

Whatever you do, don't drill out the rivets. There are 3 bolts that hold your motor in. Use a metal coat hanger to hold your window in the up position before removing the motor. 1 bolt should be exposed and the other two are hidden behind the dimples. You will need a 3/4 inch hole saw, 1/4 inch pilot to drill holes to get to the bolts. Or, you can do as I did and use the biggest bit you have and then use a dremel with a metal grinder to run along the inside edge of the holes until the holes are big enough to get a socket in to take the bolts out.
If you remove the rivets you are going to cause yourself more work. Once you remove the 3 bolts, just give the motor a slight twist and pull and it should come right out. The rivets are for the regulator. I just rebuilt my window motors last weekend and now they work good as new. I didn't spend a cent.