Power Lock Problems
#1
07-24-2004, 11:58 PM
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Power Lock Problems
Hey all,
I just bought my first truck, an '02 Lariat. The truck is immaculate and everything works great except for the passenger side power door lock. It will move up and down but will not actually lock/unlock the door. Is the actuator going bad or is there perhaps a problem somewhere in the linkage since the lock still moves? On my '90 Mustang the driverside door lock was stuck in the unlocked position and could not be moved when the actuator died.
Also any idea on where I could pick up one factory tan floormat? I've got mats for all the seats except the drivers.
I just bought my first truck, an '02 Lariat. The truck is immaculate and everything works great except for the passenger side power door lock. It will move up and down but will not actually lock/unlock the door. Is the actuator going bad or is there perhaps a problem somewhere in the linkage since the lock still moves? On my '90 Mustang the driverside door lock was stuck in the unlocked position and could not be moved when the actuator died.
Also any idea on where I could pick up one factory tan floormat? I've got mats for all the seats except the drivers.
Last edited by FiveOJester; 07-25-2004 at 02:20 AM.
#2
07-25-2004, 11:57 AM
if you hit the lock button and you see the lock **** twitch but not move more then say 1/8 inch. you prolly have a bad lock actuator. sometimes these will lock unlock once then get all twitchy when they start to go out also. it is attached to the door latch and will require door panel removal. then remove linkages and latch. these actuators actually slide on and lock to the latch.
#3
07-26-2004, 12:35 AM
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The other consideration is if you are getting full movement of the **** but it is not unlocking the door it might be a linkage problem. Have seen it happen a couple of time especally when the local tow company uses a slim jim to open the door for someone locked out. Obviously from both responses so far you will have to remove the door panel and check it out.
#4
07-26-2004, 09:07 PM
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Alrighty. How difficult is the door panel removal? The panel is in excellent condition so I'd really like to not mess it up if possible. I own the tool that is used for taking the panels off my Mustang's doors, will that work? Also is this solenoid held in by a rivet that has to be drilled out?
#5
07-27-2004, 02:03 AM
that door panel tool wont help you any on your 150. there is an 8mm under the plastic cover around the inner door handle the cover just pops off. then at the B pillar there is a long plastic trim piece above the door pannel that unsnaps and there is a phillips head screw holding the door panel under that. i believe there is another phillips head under the reflector/light lower rear of door. lens pops out. then there is a trim piece at the front of the door upper. this unsnaps and there maybe a phillips under there too. i think the window switch and lock switch trim pops up and there is a phillips under there too.
then this is the cool part lift staight up on the door panel DO NOT pull it out away from door. the door panel uses a tab a slot b setup not the push pins that we are all used to from the past.
the actuator is held directly to the latch mechanism. you need a torqs bit to remove the 3 screws from the latch be careful not to scratch paint. then there are 2 linkages one has a plastic snap then it pops out. the other is for the lock cyl. it will slide out of the plastic clip if you push the tabs apart. but sometimes it is easir to remove the clip that holds it to the lock cyl. just dont lose the clip its real small. then unbolt the window regulator bar and fish the latch out moving wires and stuff to get it out. you will see the black plastic actuator you might have to remove the door ajar switch and depress the tab then it slides out. then you put it all back together. good luck.
then this is the cool part lift staight up on the door panel DO NOT pull it out away from door. the door panel uses a tab a slot b setup not the push pins that we are all used to from the past.
the actuator is held directly to the latch mechanism. you need a torqs bit to remove the 3 screws from the latch be careful not to scratch paint. then there are 2 linkages one has a plastic snap then it pops out. the other is for the lock cyl. it will slide out of the plastic clip if you push the tabs apart. but sometimes it is easir to remove the clip that holds it to the lock cyl. just dont lose the clip its real small. then unbolt the window regulator bar and fish the latch out moving wires and stuff to get it out. you will see the black plastic actuator you might have to remove the door ajar switch and depress the tab then it slides out. then you put it all back together. good luck.
#6
07-28-2004, 04:01 PM
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Originally posted by Mr_Bentwrench
that door panel tool wont help you any on your 150. there is an 8mm under the plastic cover around the inner door handle the cover just pops off. then at the B pillar there is a long plastic trim piece above the door pannel that unsnaps and there is a phillips head screw holding the door panel under that. i believe there is another phillips head under the reflector/light lower rear of door. lens pops out. then there is a trim piece at the front of the door upper. this unsnaps and there maybe a phillips under there too. i think the window switch and lock switch trim pops up and there is a phillips under there too.
then this is the cool part lift staight up on the door panel DO NOT pull it out away from door. the door panel uses a tab a slot b setup not the push pins that we are all used to from the past.
the actuator is held directly to the latch mechanism. you need a torqs bit to remove the 3 screws from the latch be careful not to scratch paint. then there are 2 linkages one has a plastic snap then it pops out. the other is for the lock cyl. it will slide out of the plastic clip if you push the tabs apart. but sometimes it is easir to remove the clip that holds it to the lock cyl. just dont lose the clip its real small. then unbolt the window regulator bar and fish the latch out moving wires and stuff to get it out. you will see the black plastic actuator you might have to remove the door ajar switch and depress the tab then it slides out. then you put it all back together. good luck.
that door panel tool wont help you any on your 150. there is an 8mm under the plastic cover around the inner door handle the cover just pops off. then at the B pillar there is a long plastic trim piece above the door pannel that unsnaps and there is a phillips head screw holding the door panel under that. i believe there is another phillips head under the reflector/light lower rear of door. lens pops out. then there is a trim piece at the front of the door upper. this unsnaps and there maybe a phillips under there too. i think the window switch and lock switch trim pops up and there is a phillips under there too.
then this is the cool part lift staight up on the door panel DO NOT pull it out away from door. the door panel uses a tab a slot b setup not the push pins that we are all used to from the past.
the actuator is held directly to the latch mechanism. you need a torqs bit to remove the 3 screws from the latch be careful not to scratch paint. then there are 2 linkages one has a plastic snap then it pops out. the other is for the lock cyl. it will slide out of the plastic clip if you push the tabs apart. but sometimes it is easir to remove the clip that holds it to the lock cyl. just dont lose the clip its real small. then unbolt the window regulator bar and fish the latch out moving wires and stuff to get it out. you will see the black plastic actuator you might have to remove the door ajar switch and depress the tab then it slides out. then you put it all back together. good luck.
You didn't mention this so I'm assuming it's not there, but does my truck have the inner plastic liner between the door panel and door? That thing is always a PITA to reseal.
#7
07-29-2004, 02:35 AM
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#8
07-29-2004, 10:10 AM
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Mr_Bentwrench gave you all the instruction you need, but in case it makes you feel any better, I had the same symptoms with my passenger door lock last week. It turned out to be the actuator, which I thought strange, having only 55k miles on the truck. Since I bought the ext'd warranty when I first got the truck, all I had to pay was the deductible.
FYI. Ford warranties the part for 12 months/12,000 miles (according to the service manager), but wouldn't release how much Ford pays toward the part under the warranty program. I think the parts counter wanted $45 for a replacement. Thru another experience, I found that $100 COP sold at the parts counter to a customer, Ford only paid $35 internally toward a warranty replacement. So it appears the parts counter would have made $65 if I bought it vs. Ford buying it.
FYI. Ford warranties the part for 12 months/12,000 miles (according to the service manager), but wouldn't release how much Ford pays toward the part under the warranty program. I think the parts counter wanted $45 for a replacement. Thru another experience, I found that $100 COP sold at the parts counter to a customer, Ford only paid $35 internally toward a warranty replacement. So it appears the parts counter would have made $65 if I bought it vs. Ford buying it.
#9
07-30-2004, 11:46 PM
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Originally posted by Spidy
Mr_Bentwrench gave you all the instruction you need, but in case it makes you feel any better, I had the same symptoms with my passenger door lock last week. It turned out to be the actuator, which I thought strange, having only 55k miles on the truck. Since I bought the ext'd warranty when I first got the truck, all I had to pay was the deductible.
FYI. Ford warranties the part for 12 months/12,000 miles (according to the service manager), but wouldn't release how much Ford pays toward the part under the warranty program. I think the parts counter wanted $45 for a replacement. Thru another experience, I found that $100 COP sold at the parts counter to a customer, Ford only paid $35 internally toward a warranty replacement. So it appears the parts counter would have made $65 if I bought it vs. Ford buying it.
Mr_Bentwrench gave you all the instruction you need, but in case it makes you feel any better, I had the same symptoms with my passenger door lock last week. It turned out to be the actuator, which I thought strange, having only 55k miles on the truck. Since I bought the ext'd warranty when I first got the truck, all I had to pay was the deductible.
FYI. Ford warranties the part for 12 months/12,000 miles (according to the service manager), but wouldn't release how much Ford pays toward the part under the warranty program. I think the parts counter wanted $45 for a replacement. Thru another experience, I found that $100 COP sold at the parts counter to a customer, Ford only paid $35 internally toward a warranty replacement. So it appears the parts counter would have made $65 if I bought it vs. Ford buying it.