I agree with you that 40mA will not drain a battery. This is a little off topic but since you brought up the “standard is 150-200mA draw MAX” is that due to, or better yet I should ask, does the PMC not take some power to maintain settings, as well as the blinking “security” light inside the truck? I could see that easily taken at least 40mA.

Again, I don’t really know much about our truck circuits and power requirements when the ignition is off except I know there is that blinking “security” light in the dash panel and that if you disconnect the battery it resets the PCM so taking that into account there must be some battery draw. Granted no where near enough to draw a battery down, and most likely not enough to draw a batter down in storage.

Perhaps that is why he is seeing a 40mA draw on the battery when he measured it?

 

Yes, 40mA is normal. The security light does not pull alot, nor does the keep alive power to the PCM. Fords have a battery save mode, that turns everything off, including door locks. If you have a newer Ford (does not apply to all), lock the doors with the door open, and close the door (window open), after a few minutes try to unlock the doors by reaching inside the window. They wont work. Just an example of that battery save mode. That is why I say 100mA max. We will get this figured out for him...

 

Be sure to let us know what happens, Jeff...

 

Sorry for the long wait on the reply but I wanted to make sure this fixed it. I can't believe what it turned out to be!!

Okay here goes:
1st I rechecked the draw and it is only 40 milliamps and that was with the hood open(but remember the hood light and all in truck lights weren't working so there was no draw from them)

2nd Swapped the battery out again and retried; still no lights or other stuff(but did start)

3rd Left good battery in over night started fine in morning but still no stuff working(that wasn't working before)

4th Took out new battery and charged old battery overnight(no battery in truck overnight)

5th Put old battery back in and holy crap everything works(I'm thinking how the heck is this possible)

6th 2 days later battery dead

7th Many beers later it hits me: I didn't wait long enough for the computer reset and it was shutting down that area of circuits.(right; I'm really fishing here)

8th Buy new battery(waited a day so computer reset) and it's been perfect ever since.


I think that's what it was(that's the only thing I could come up with).

Thank you everyone for all your help and I completely understand why you questioned my draw checking because that's all I could come up with too.

THANK YOU
Jeff

 

Jeff
If the problem reoccurs (windows not working, not the draw) have the codes pulled from the Gem module. That will provide much help. The unofficial spec on a draw from Ford is .050A
or 50 milliamps, checked after a 1 hour timeout . .temp 1 is correct about the fuses being overlooked (Not the case here). I have seen many dealer Techs spend hours on ele. problems that eventually lead back to a blown fuse.temp 1

 

Thanks for the post Jeff. Sounds like it is working for now, but still not fixed.

I don't know if we have some those fuses that reset themselves (more like circuit breakers) in our trucks but they can be lots of fun. The fuse blows so that something does not work but then the fuse reset's itself later. You end up with something that works part of the time but you can't find any blown fuses.

 

Fuses dont reset, but you may have had a relay sticking.

 

It's still working fine but I noticed something. I had my brother disconnect the battery and reconnect it(while I had the door open and the key in) and after a slight pause I heard a click in the dash(by the relays and fuses) then the door chime and dome light came on. I let the truck sit for 4 days this time and it didn't drain the battery or kill any circuits. Is it really possible that's all it was; was a stuck relay and a dead battery?? I also noticed that with the heat on, lights on and radio on the alternator seems to be struggling a bit(at idle that is). But as soon as I get on the gas everything is up to snuff. I'll test the output on it again tommorrow.

What kind of codes does the GEM module store? Can I pull them myself or is this a manufacturers job.

Thanx for all the info guys I really appreciate it.
Jeff

 

AutoZone maybe able to pull GEM codes for you? Someone on here will know. Here is a list .


GEM Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Reference Chart
DTC Circuit Description Test Mode
B1313 Fuse Junction Panel Battery Saver Relay Coil Circuit Open or Shorted to Ground On-Demand, Continuous
B1315 Fuse Junction Panel Battery Saver Relay Coil Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand, Continuous
B1322 344 (BK/Y) LH Door Open Warning Lamp Switch Circuit Short to Ground On-Demand
B1330 345 (BK/PK) RH Door Open Warning Lamp Switch Circuit Short to Ground On-Demand
B1342 N/A GEM Defective On-Demand, Continuous
B1355 1040 (R/LB) Ignition RUN Circuit Failure On-Demand
B1359 297 (BK/LG) Ignition RUN/ACC Circuit Failure On-Demand, Continuous
B1365 32 (R/LB), 481 (GY/Y) Ignition START Circuit Short to Battery On-Demand, Continuous
B1373 Fuse Junction Panel Interior Lamp Relay Coil Circuit Shorted to Battery On-Demand, Continuous
B1445 930 (PK/LG) Interior Lamp Switch Circuit Short to Ground On-Demand
B1610 1013 (BR/LG) Illuminated Entry Input Request (From Remote Anti-Theft Personality Module) Circuit Short to Ground Continuous
P0500 676 (PK/O), 679 (GY/BK) Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction Continuous