Does anyone know how I could make my high and low beams burn at the same time?

 

The easy way is to get a diode and wire it from the high beam power lead to the low beam power lead.

The diode would only allow for the current to flow in one direction ( in your case from the hgih beam to the low beam ).

You will need a diode large enough to handle the current flow for the size lamps that you have. Stock are 55 watt on low, so this is one large diode. You will need to find a electronics supply store, Radio Shack might not have this on hand any more ( now that they are a Sprint cell phone and computer store ).

Painless wiring makes a module for Chevy trucks to do the same thing that you would be able to splice into the Ford harness, if you were comfortable doing this.

Rather then go to all this trouble, you might just want to get a set of driving lamps that fill the void left by the low beams and wire the control lead to the high beams. Might be quicker.

Good luck

 

I have thought about using a diode for this. I was hoping that there was an after market wiring kit for this. But I think wiring a diode in would be easy enough. Do you think I could get away with using one diode between the 2 wires before they split to each headlight, or will I need a diode behind each light? Also do you think I would run into any trouble with the lights getting to hot? And it wouldn't be pulling to much juice for that wire size or it would blow a fuse, right? I just don't want to melt a harness.

 

Considering that the current for the each low beam alone needs to supply 55 watts, and this really should be 80% of the wattage size of the diode, I would suggest not doing both on a single wire. I don't know what year your truck is, but my 01 has a fuse for each headlight on low beam.

The problem with the wiring melting is there, as you are not putting 90% more load on the wire itself for the high beam circuit.
You might be wise to upgrade the wiring to the high beam with an aftermarket harness.

Another item of note, is have you thought of what might happen to the headlight bucket if you are not moving fast enough to cool it properly ?
I don't know myself, but it is another item you should consider if you are doing this.

These are some of the reasons I suggested finding another way of doing what you are after. BTW : What is that ?

 

Although I'd agree that you can make this mod work electrically, I doubt you're going to see your bulbs last long due to too much heat being generated inside the bulb. You can actually cause the bulbs to explode with too much heat. (Ask me how i know that?) I'd also suggest a set of driving lights as being as safer bet.

 

This might be the reason why Painless Wiring only makes this type of kit for the Chevy 4 bulb systems.
Never thought of the bulb life part of it. I was thinking of the more expensive headlight bucket, but over the course of the life of the mod, you might pass the bucket costs in replacing bulbs. ???

Maybe a set of driving lights or clear fog lamps with the relay activated by the high beams, and replacing the stock bulbs with SilverStar bulbs is a better and maybe a cheaper soultion if what you are after is a fill in of the void left by the low beams with the high beams on. If that is what you are after that is.

 

Do a search on the pep boys web site....I know that I saw a mod for this..it is a box that takes care of everything for you...I will tryand find the link again...saw it about a week ago...take care

 

I don't think It is such a good Idea to run both lights at one time unless you like cleaning glass particles off of your melted headlight assembly. I was doing this once and one of my bulbs exploded and the glass shrapnel melted into the reflectors and plastic housing.

Just my experience.

 

Having both beams on at the same time doesn't necessarily mean more light.


Why not go with the true H.I.D. conversion kits from Sylvania?

 

My 2003 SCrew may be new, but *I'm* not. I'm affected by bright headlights, especially those designed to melt the plastic of oncoming trucks and cars. I hope that you intend to use the Hi+Lo off road. If so, I would recommend additional lights with the appropriate circuitry. A friend used go on night rallys (does that date me?) and had his car set up with extra batteries, battery relays and *aircraft* landing lights. He could only use them in short bursts due to the heat and power drain.