I started a new thread so if people want to ask questions, they can from the original post. Here is a description of the install as well as pics. One thing i must say is, you have to be somewhat mechanically inclined to do this project as it will take some custom fabrication. On to the descriptions...

Pics:



This is a pic of the motor mounted on the passenger side.

Here is a better pic of the mounting situation:



The big holes are so i could get my finger back there to put a nut and lock washer on the other side of the bolt holding the brackets to the door panel. The best and only way to get the lock washers and nuts on the bolts was to superglue the nut and lock waser to your finger and hold it there while you screw the bolt into it. We tried rivets and those didnt work worth a damn, so this is the best way to mount them solid. We got metal L brackets from home depot and cut them to fit. The retainer for the window from the expedition fit perfect, the only thing you need to do is get the collar from the original stock one and put it on the new expedition one and it will fit fine. I also soldered wires to the pins from the motor and ran them through the door and then through the wire grommet from the door to the cab. Then we ran the wires from the passenger side of the cab under the carpet (in order to do that we needed to remove the back seats). To unbolt the back seats, there are 3 bolts that you can see, and 3 that you cannot see. The three that you see should be easy to get off, but the three you do not see are hex bolts and are holding down the seat belts as well as the seats. If you don't have an air ratchet for this, it will take you quite a while, but if you do, it should be fairly quick. Once we got the wires ran from the passenger side, we ran the driver's side wires through the grommet as well to the cab. Then run the wires along the side of the cab under the plastic trim pieces on the floor. Then up through the driver's side kick panel. Now getting the wires to get through the driver's door grommet is a pain in the arss. We got a wire coat hanger and made it straight and used that to get all the wires through all the grommets, as it is the easiest way. You will have to pull the grommet out and cut it a little bit to get the wire into the grommet from the cab. Then i suggest making a hook at the end of the wire hanger with some pliers and feed it through from the door speaker hole to the grommet and grab the wires with the hook. Once you grab the wires, tighten the hook so the wires don't move and then pull pretty hard and they should come through. That is all the wiring, sorry i dont have more pics but my vivid description should work pretty well.

Here is a pic of the supercrew switch panel that i used along with the bezel to make it look stock:



There were a couple unforseen problems with the wiring, like trying to figure out what each wire from my truck did and what each pin on the switch panel did. Rockpick and Daveman helped me out here by giving me some wiring diagrams that could tell me what each wire meant. I didnt buy the wiring harness from Ford for the switch panel because they wanted $325 for it, so screw them, and we ended up soldering each wire to each pin.

Continued to next post...

 

This is a wiring diagram that I'm guessing is good for 97-02 supercabs, but I'm not 100% positive on that statement. I know that it will work for 01-02, but not positive on the other years.



If you follow that everything should work fine. The only thing you have to do to the stock wires is splice the LT BLUE/BLACK wire into 2. To figure out the rear quarter up/down its just trial and error. If you have it wrong, when you push up it will open and when you push down it will close, thats all that will happen. To solder the rear quarter wires last is what i would suggest.

Now back to the bezel. The supercrew bezel for the switches is slightly different. The power mirror and lock switches fit fine in addition to the screw switch panel. You will need to take off some of the plastic on the door panel near the top to make clearance for the mirror switch with the dremel cutter, as well as take some off the back where the clip that goes under the panel is. Don't take the clip off, just take off the excess plastic in front of it to make more clearance. You will also have to belt sand the bezel on the side that butts up agains the door for some additional clearance. And the last thing you should have to do to the bezel is cut off the clip and screw it down to the plastic. It is the only way to hold it, trust me! I tried super glue, gorilla glue, elmers glue, jb weld, everything!! What I am going to do with that to make it look stock is recess the screw and get a piece of plastic from the stock switch panel and put it there. Then touch it up with some medium parchment paint. It will look fine. One piece of advice before you do that, MAKE SURE ALL THE SOLDERS ARE PERFECT!

The last and only thing i have left to do is alter the rear door panels so they go around the motor. The way I am going to do this is to cut the plastic off the panel that i know has to go for clearance and then use modeling clay to make a form and build it up with some fiberglass resin. Once that is done i'm going to paint it, just the section i fiberglassed, and it will look awesome!

Now, I'm sure i left a couple things out in this huge description and explanation, so if you have any questions, please post here so everyone can see them and I'll be glad to answer them. I shot a movie of the motor in motion. To view it, you need Quicktime. Just CLICK HERE to view it! Enjoy, and have a great day everyone!!


Joe

 

I forgot to post the part numbers

The cheapest place to get all of these parts is from www.fordpartscheap.com

I'll list all the parts along with the prices.

1. QTY: 2; PT#: F75Z78223A52BA; DESC: RETAINER ASSY, QTR WINDOW; PRICE: $10.13 ea

2. QTY: 1; PT#: 2L1Z7830478AA; DESC: MOTOR ASSY RH QTR WINDOW; PRICE: $50.66

3. QTY: 1; PT#: 2L1Z7830479AA; DESC: MOTOR ASSY LH QTR WINDOW; PRICE: $49.41

4. QTY: 1; PT#: YL3Z14529BA; DESC: SUPERCREW SWITCH ASSY; PRICE: $56.65

5. QTY: 1; PT#: YL3Z14525AAB; DESC: SUPERCREW LH WINDOW SWITCH BEZEL; PRICE: $8.50


Joe

 

Awesome mod Joe. Glad to know that it's working out as planned and that things are progressing.

Oh yeah... no kudos to your buddies helping you out? Like I've told you, you owe them a cold ROOTBEER.

RP

 

Thanks man! You're right, i do owe em somethin for helpin me out. I'll figure something out

Joe

 

Good Job! I love seeing custom stuff like this. Where there's a will there's a way.

 

Nice mod Joe! Can you open it to wherever you want? or does it always go fully open? Looks great! I love the move of it in action, it makes life easier

 

You can open it wherever/whenever you want & it doesn't have to go fully open. It's just like a regular window in the way it functions.


Joe

 

Great job!

 

Great job... I had done that to my 00' f-150 last year and love it.(Same set up) I have power windows all around,including power slider. I've gotten alot of compliments on them from other truck owners. I'll try to post some of my pics soon.

 

Nice SVT!!

How did you go about fixing up the panels, i'd love to see what you've done. And did you bend your brackets to make the motor sit straight in the retainer? And how does your screw bezel fit? Thanks!

Joe

 

Very nice, Joe!

 

Thanks, appreciate it!


Joe

 

Got any pics yet SVT527? Thanks


Joe

 

Hey Joe, I can't find any of my pics for my old panels. All I did was make a cover that went with the factory contours of the trim panel and attached it to the panel. I used Ford Dark Graphite spray paint to match the cover to the panel.
A friend of mine is working on making me some new fiberglass panels that will allow me to put a small speaker(tweeter) in the panel for my sound system. I'll try to get some pics as soon as I can.... But first, a nice vacation I been waiting 3 months for...Hawaii here I come....