Wiring to Fuse Block - HELP!?!
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Originally posted by JMC
Brad,
Pin #2 is the power for for the switch.
Come to think of it did you say that you had a 2001 CD? Section 100 in the EVTM. 1st page shows the Central Junction Box. Circuit 400 off the Acc Delay Relay is hot only when the GEM tells it to be. That means in RUN, ON, ACC and for a bout 10 minutes after you shut off the truck and before you open the doors. Tap into that circuit and connect it to pin #2. let me know if you find it.
JMC
Brad,
Pin #2 is the power for for the switch.
Come to think of it did you say that you had a 2001 CD? Section 100 in the EVTM. 1st page shows the Central Junction Box. Circuit 400 off the Acc Delay Relay is hot only when the GEM tells it to be. That means in RUN, ON, ACC and for a bout 10 minutes after you shut off the truck and before you open the doors. Tap into that circuit and connect it to pin #2. let me know if you find it.
JMC
I'll check that out when I get home as I do have a 2001 CD and know exactly what section you're speaking of...
THANKS AGAIN!!
RP
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Originally posted by SSCULLY
...It seems that Ford has the Power slider on the same circuit as the power windows in the 2001 wiring digram, but they may have found out that this did not work ?? and put it on another fuse.
Is your power moon roof on the same fuse as the power windows ?
www.fleet.ford.com has the 2002 owners manual posted, and the SCrew uses the same power for the power windows and moonroof, so maybe this is inclusive to the rear slider ?
...The only time there might be a problem using the same relay for the windows and moon roof and power rear slider, is if you try to get at them all at the same time, which maybe why they moved the rear slider switch away from the moon roof, so you could not use one hand on the rear slider and moon roof switches in the overhead console, and your left hand, running all 4 windows up. ??
...
...It seems that Ford has the Power slider on the same circuit as the power windows in the 2001 wiring digram, but they may have found out that this did not work ?? and put it on another fuse.
Is your power moon roof on the same fuse as the power windows ?
www.fleet.ford.com has the 2002 owners manual posted, and the SCrew uses the same power for the power windows and moonroof, so maybe this is inclusive to the rear slider ?
...The only time there might be a problem using the same relay for the windows and moon roof and power rear slider, is if you try to get at them all at the same time, which maybe why they moved the rear slider switch away from the moon roof, so you could not use one hand on the rear slider and moon roof switches in the overhead console, and your left hand, running all 4 windows up. ??
...
I believe that the moon roof and the windows are on the same fuse... According to the 2001 CD, everything appears to be on the same circuit as they just keep continuing the schematics to the next page but, they all ultimately end up starting at the same 30A fuse.
I don't think I could operate all of the buttons by myself or, if I did, I'd be using toes to operate something.... maybe drive with my toes...God, that would be a sight huh? HAHA!
I'm really leaning towards running two new wires from the back versus trying to find if 355 runs up to 209... that might be a wild goose chase to find 209 but, I'm going to reserve that decision until after I pull the back plastic out from behind my back seats and see if 355 is hanging out somewhere back there. If it is, I might *attempt* to follow it but, I'm really not liking the idea about dropping the headliner... that's a beast.
As far as putting in a new relay, I'm still not sure that it just wouldn't be easier to tap a window switch power line because they're on that delay. What do you think? Especially since they're all shown to be on the same circuit on the CD... that just seems like the easiest way to do it... easiest and not really 'half-***' like splicing the pedals power/ground/illumination...even though I don't think that would be a bad decision to do it that way because I never use the pedals button...
What do you think?
RP
Last edited by Rockpick; Feb 4, 2003 at 12:24 PM.
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Dec 1997
Posts: 9,417
Likes: 11
From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Splicing into the pedals for the grounds and ilumination power will not blow a fuse if you use the pedals and the slider at the same time. All you are doing is sharing the same ground points and drawing a little more power for the switch light. The power for the slider motor should come from a different circuit to avoid excess current draw. If you use the window power circuit adding a relay will in effect only increase the current draw by the amount that is needed to turn on the relay. The relay can draw its current to power the slider directly from the battery if you so choose. Just be sure to fuse the battery line if you do it this way.
JMC
JMC
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
That's the story of my life man... always too short.... ROFL! 
So, you're still saying I need to put a relay in? I know the original instructions with the CR Laurence kit just have it drawing power off #30 in the fuse panel and the wiring has an inline fuse... that seems, to me, like it would be easier than putting in a relay and such.
No one has really shot down my idea about just wiring it into a window switch's power line... thoughts?
Also, you 'DO' think that there would be too much current draw if I took power from the pedals motor? Mind you, I never use the pedals.
I guess I'm trying to keep from having to get 'elaborate' with the wiring when something simple like a splice connector will work. I'm willing to cross whatever bridge that I have in front of me to make this work but, it just seems like it would be easier to have a boat and cross the stream rather than building the aformentioned bridge....
RP
So, you're still saying I need to put a relay in? I know the original instructions with the CR Laurence kit just have it drawing power off #30 in the fuse panel and the wiring has an inline fuse... that seems, to me, like it would be easier than putting in a relay and such.
No one has really shot down my idea about just wiring it into a window switch's power line... thoughts?
Also, you 'DO' think that there would be too much current draw if I took power from the pedals motor? Mind you, I never use the pedals.
I guess I'm trying to keep from having to get 'elaborate' with the wiring when something simple like a splice connector will work. I'm willing to cross whatever bridge that I have in front of me to make this work but, it just seems like it would be easier to have a boat and cross the stream rather than building the aformentioned bridge....
RP
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
I think that JMC has the correct idea, use the power pedal for the instrument illumination and illumination grounds only. This s the circuit for the intrument illumination point, so either way it is the same fuse for that.
Fuse 30 for the power slider ?? If this is the inside fuse, it is for : Passive Anti Theft Transceiver, Cluster, Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module Relay, Coil on Plugs, Radio Noise Capacitor, ECC Diode. WTF, why would they tell you to use that one ?
Relay 5 is the accy delay relay ( circuit 400 ) T-tap on that seems to make more sense as it is what Ford uses for the power rear slider, per '01 diagram.
If Ford does it, then it should be good to go for using the circuit for the power windows. Just don't try to use all 4 windows, the moon roof and the rear slider at the same time, that might blow the fuse.
The power pedals is also the power for the power seats oddly enough ( the power itself, not the illumination lamps ).
If the connector is in the back and you can find it, un-plugging C202 on the pass side, saves the front to rear run of wire. The only wire you would need to run is from the drivers side to the pass side under the dash. That is an easy one, compared to taking out all the other panels.
Connector C202, is by the fuel inertia switch on the pass side kick panel, this connects to C355 one way, and C209 up in the overhead the other way. You would only use the side going to C355 ( unplug it, and use the C202 <->C355 part only ).
Adding the relay looks to be not needed per Ford, mind you they never put it in, and tested it on an '01. But if you can run the power moon roof, it should run the power rear slider, again I would not try driving with your right foot, closing the power slider with your left foot, left hand closing all 4 windows and you right hand closing the moon roof, you would kind of look like you are playing twister while driving down the road
My suggestion of the relay was not knowing any better, that the windows and moon roof are all on the same circuit to start with ( and before I found that Ford also puts the rear slider on the same circuit ).
Hard call, the relay is only like 3 min additional work, and maybe 12.00 in parts total ( wire inline fuse, relay and connectors ). Maybe the 3 min work is worth it.
Then again think out if you want more things on the dealy assy circuit, then going with the power plate is a no brainer ( the product name for a fuse box with a relay to turn the block on and off, you probably could make it from parts at AutoZone yourself if you want to ).
I'll email the picture of the diagrams that show the relay config, the gallery is still shut down.
Fuse 30 for the power slider ?? If this is the inside fuse, it is for : Passive Anti Theft Transceiver, Cluster, Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module Relay, Coil on Plugs, Radio Noise Capacitor, ECC Diode. WTF, why would they tell you to use that one ?
Relay 5 is the accy delay relay ( circuit 400 ) T-tap on that seems to make more sense as it is what Ford uses for the power rear slider, per '01 diagram.
If Ford does it, then it should be good to go for using the circuit for the power windows. Just don't try to use all 4 windows, the moon roof and the rear slider at the same time, that might blow the fuse.
The power pedals is also the power for the power seats oddly enough ( the power itself, not the illumination lamps ).
If the connector is in the back and you can find it, un-plugging C202 on the pass side, saves the front to rear run of wire. The only wire you would need to run is from the drivers side to the pass side under the dash. That is an easy one, compared to taking out all the other panels.
Connector C202, is by the fuel inertia switch on the pass side kick panel, this connects to C355 one way, and C209 up in the overhead the other way. You would only use the side going to C355 ( unplug it, and use the C202 <->C355 part only ).
Adding the relay looks to be not needed per Ford, mind you they never put it in, and tested it on an '01. But if you can run the power moon roof, it should run the power rear slider, again I would not try driving with your right foot, closing the power slider with your left foot, left hand closing all 4 windows and you right hand closing the moon roof, you would kind of look like you are playing twister while driving down the road
My suggestion of the relay was not knowing any better, that the windows and moon roof are all on the same circuit to start with ( and before I found that Ford also puts the rear slider on the same circuit ).
Hard call, the relay is only like 3 min additional work, and maybe 12.00 in parts total ( wire inline fuse, relay and connectors ). Maybe the 3 min work is worth it.
Then again think out if you want more things on the dealy assy circuit, then going with the power plate is a no brainer ( the product name for a fuse box with a relay to turn the block on and off, you probably could make it from parts at AutoZone yourself if you want to ).
I'll email the picture of the diagrams that show the relay config, the gallery is still shut down.
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Power plate... umm, that scares me thinking about it... lol... I'm telling you guys, I'm a wuss with the power idea here. A total wuss! I'm so scared I'm going to screw something up in a major way that I'm very interested in finding a wire and splicing it. I know how to use a splice connector.
I know... I know... I'm not going to learn until I get in there and get my hands dirty with it (and, in turn, screw something up royally) but, I'll get through it. I'm still leaning towards tapping the window wire. Seems like 'MY' (hence the word 'MY') easiest, safest, most secure option.
I know I've said it 500 times in this, the 51st post in this thread, but, I really appreciate you guys help and emails. You all have gone above and beyond anything that I would've expected and I thank you both...
RP
I know... I know... I'm not going to learn until I get in there and get my hands dirty with it (and, in turn, screw something up royally) but, I'll get through it. I'm still leaning towards tapping the window wire. Seems like 'MY' (hence the word 'MY') easiest, safest, most secure option.
I know I've said it 500 times in this, the 51st post in this thread, but, I really appreciate you guys help and emails. You all have gone above and beyond anything that I would've expected and I thank you both...
RP
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Okay Steve, per your email, I think I'm going to chase #248 to power the slider but, I have another problem... which wire in C248 is the power?? I can't find a diagram in the connectors section that shows which wire is what...
Also, should I be able to access that wire (whichever one it may be) behind the driver's side kick panel or am I going to have to dissassemble the friggin' dash? (*please don't say the dash*).
You mentioned Steve that the wire is exiting the loom from the door just above the fuse box... having surfed around this CD for several minutes, I can't locate which wire you are speaking of... help...
Also, you said to fuse that connection... what amp fuse do I need inline?
RP
Also, should I be able to access that wire (whichever one it may be) behind the driver's side kick panel or am I going to have to dissassemble the friggin' dash? (*please don't say the dash*).
You mentioned Steve that the wire is exiting the loom from the door just above the fuse box... having surfed around this CD for several minutes, I can't locate which wire you are speaking of... help...
Also, you said to fuse that connection... what amp fuse do I need inline?
RP
Last edited by Rockpick; Feb 4, 2003 at 06:32 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
How about this...
We're all scrambled about the place on thoughts and procedures... I'm going to recap everything that I'm planning on doing as far as the wiring is concerned... I'll begin with connector #209; the sliding rear window switch.
PIN 1 OPEN/CLOSE - Tie to one of the two wires on the motor for the rear slider (Yellow or Red)
PIN 2 POWER - Tie to power wire to the power windows coming from the switches via a loom to above the fuse panel. Still not sure of wire color.
PIN 3 GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #3 (BK)
PIN 4 ILLUMINATION GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #4 (BK)
PIN 5 ILLUMINATION POWER - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #5 (LB/RD)
PIN 6 GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #6 (BK)
PIN 7 OPEN/CLOSE - Tie to one of the two wires on the motor for the rear slider (Yellow or Red)
That look right?
I'll be waiting for some kind of blessing before I proceed to the next step... *PRAYS FOR A BLESSING*
RP
We're all scrambled about the place on thoughts and procedures... I'm going to recap everything that I'm planning on doing as far as the wiring is concerned... I'll begin with connector #209; the sliding rear window switch.
PIN 1 OPEN/CLOSE - Tie to one of the two wires on the motor for the rear slider (Yellow or Red)
PIN 2 POWER - Tie to power wire to the power windows coming from the switches via a loom to above the fuse panel. Still not sure of wire color.
PIN 3 GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #3 (BK)
PIN 4 ILLUMINATION GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #4 (BK)
PIN 5 ILLUMINATION POWER - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #5 (LB/RD)
PIN 6 GROUND - Splice to Pedals Switch wire pin #6 (BK)
PIN 7 OPEN/CLOSE - Tie to one of the two wires on the motor for the rear slider (Yellow or Red)
That look right?
I'll be waiting for some kind of blessing before I proceed to the next step... *PRAYS FOR A BLESSING*
RP
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
LMAO...
For all the help that SSCULLY and yourself have provided, I'm going to personally swing by your place with a six pack of a frosty cold beverage and let you witness it personally...
Thanks guys... Seriously... thanks.
RP
For all the help that SSCULLY and yourself have provided, I'm going to personally swing by your place with a six pack of a frosty cold beverage and let you witness it personally...
Thanks guys... Seriously... thanks.
RP
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,334
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, KY.
Brad, It sounds like your going all out to get this right, I looked under my dash and did some research the CR kit comes with a piggyback fuse adapter similar to what you and I saw at Crowbar.com that fit the #30 fuse. I also located the in-line fuse and it has a 20 amp fuse in it. the wire appears to be about a 14 gauge. Hope some of this helps. If you still need a hand this weekend let me know before Friday if possible
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Ommium domnious retrtuium, By the power invested in me by the close cover before striking on back, school of ministry, your are blessed
The pinout for the the switch is it, and as JMC said, if the direction of the switch to the slider is wrong, reverse pins 1 & 7.
The pin out for C248 is on page 150-12 ( module 12 in the EVTM section of the CD ). The pin is pin 2 Circuit 400, Lt Blue-Black stripe. It is a black connector body.
Page 151-11 grid F3 has the connector location for C248.
It looks to be behind the central junction box, by the firewall pass through ( the black plastic handle that is attached to the firewall ), behind the parking brake. It could be behind the drivers side kick panel also, the loom is just kind of hanging in mid air in the diagram, which means it could be in the kick panel area.
When you look on 151-11, you'll see what the loom looks like, to start to narrow it down
What size fuse came with the kit ?
I would start with that, I hope they don't have a 30 amp in there
It maybe though....
Next did you decide if you are going to try to find connector C355 in the back of the cab, or are you going to just run 2 new wires under the dirver side door sill channels ? ( had to ask another one didn't I ? )
The pinout for the the switch is it, and as JMC said, if the direction of the switch to the slider is wrong, reverse pins 1 & 7.
The pin out for C248 is on page 150-12 ( module 12 in the EVTM section of the CD ). The pin is pin 2 Circuit 400, Lt Blue-Black stripe. It is a black connector body.
Page 151-11 grid F3 has the connector location for C248.
It looks to be behind the central junction box, by the firewall pass through ( the black plastic handle that is attached to the firewall ), behind the parking brake. It could be behind the drivers side kick panel also, the loom is just kind of hanging in mid air in the diagram, which means it could be in the kick panel area.
When you look on 151-11, you'll see what the loom looks like, to start to narrow it down
What size fuse came with the kit ?
I would start with that, I hope they don't have a 30 amp in there
It maybe though....Next did you decide if you are going to try to find connector C355 in the back of the cab, or are you going to just run 2 new wires under the dirver side door sill channels ? ( had to ask another one didn't I ?
)
Thread Starter
|
Moderator &
Senior Member
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 31,440
Likes: 4
From: The Bluegrass State
Originally posted by SSCULLY
Ommium domnious retrtuium, By the power invested in me by the close cover before striking on back, school of ministry, your are blessed
Ommium domnious retrtuium, By the power invested in me by the close cover before striking on back, school of ministry, your are blessed
The pinout for the the switch is it, and as JMC said, if the direction of the switch to the slider is wrong, reverse pins 1 & 7.
The pin out for C248 is on page 150-12 ( module 12 in the EVTM section of the CD ). The pin is pin 2 Circuit 400, Lt Blue-Black stripe. It is a black connector body.
Page 151-11 grid F3 has the connector location for C248.
It looks to be behind the central junction box, by the firewall pass through ( the black plastic handle that is attached to the firewall ), behind the parking brake. It could be behind the drivers side kick panel also, the loom is just kind of hanging in mid air in the diagram, which means it could be in the kick panel area.
When you look on 151-11, you'll see what the loom looks like, to start to narrow it down
Page 151-11 grid F3 has the connector location for C248.
It looks to be behind the central junction box, by the firewall pass through ( the black plastic handle that is attached to the firewall ), behind the parking brake. It could be behind the drivers side kick panel also, the loom is just kind of hanging in mid air in the diagram, which means it could be in the kick panel area.
When you look on 151-11, you'll see what the loom looks like, to start to narrow it down
So the wire I'm hunting for is lt.blue/blk stripe?
What size fuse came with the kit ?
I would start with that, I hope they don't have a 30 amp in there. It maybe though....
I would start with that, I hope they don't have a 30 amp in there. It maybe though....
What would you suggest? That is a 30A circuit according to the schematics. (or I think I remember reading that...) Do I just put a 20A fuse in line from the power source off of pin #2 on circuit 400 over to pin #2 on my switch?
Next did you decide if you are going to try to find connector C355 in the back of the cab, or are you going to just run 2 new wires under the dirver side door sill channels ? ( had to ask another one didn't I ? )
RP
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
So the wire I'm hunting for is lt.blue/blk stripe?
Again, I have no kit. I was trying to scope out what I needed to put in there. Per Welfare Wagon (who did go with the kit), there is a 20A fuse in line.
What would you suggest? That is a 30A circuit according to the schematics. (or I think I remember reading that...) Do I just put a 20A fuse in line from the power source off of pin #2 on circuit 400 over to pin #2 on my switch?
That is unless this is going to cure you from doing anything else electrical again
Probably going to run two wires. I just have a really bad feeling about 355 and 209... running two wires from the back along the threshold would be, generally, simplistic. Even if I find 355, who the heck knows where 209 is located? I'm not even going to fathom the thought of dropping the headliner.
C355 ----> C202 ----> C209 ( headliner hell ).
If you can find C355 in the back, then C202 sould be a no brainer on the pass side kick pannel. Just a thought from saving you the trouble of running the wires front to rear. Less floor you need to tear up
If you start looking for C355 in the back, and cannot find it, you needed to take this much apart anyway to run the wire front to rear. Can't hurt and it might actually help.Good luck with it, if nothing else you'll have the best looking switch wired.
Steve
