I've removed the headlight switch and peered around in there to see if I see another set of wires coming up that main loom to around where the pedals switch is located. I see nothing. There are multiple wire sets back in there but, I suspect that is due to the fuse block being so closely located.

I dropped the overhead console/sunroof controls to see if I could find a #209 laying around in there but, I got to thinking before I pulled the visors off...

What if I do find it up there? How am I going to get it around and down to the switch location? The dash is practically a jigsaw puzzle to pull apart and reassemble thus, would it just be easier to run two new wires from the rear (thus cutting off 355F) and wiring power/ground & Illumination Power/Ground in off of the Pedals harness? That seems like the easiest way to go...

I know that by doing this, I'm going to have the rear window 'hot' at all times but, I'm not too worried about that. Can you think of a 'con' to having it 'hot' at all times? Would the harness that powers the pedals be adequate to run the motor for the window? I realize that I wouldn't be able to run both the pedals and rear glass at the same time but, I never move my pedals (never).

I just feel like this might be a little easier route than finding the window wiring and tapping it. Everything is right there for me to tie off of the pedals switch with the exception of two wires; the open and close for the motor...

RP

 

It's overhead and there's no good place to mount the switch. I thought long and hard about wiring it in up there but, I don't think it would look right.

That would make sense that Ford had originally planned on running #209 to the overhead console such that the switch could be mounted up there but then decided to put it down next to the pedals switch.

The picture that I posted in an earlier post was from a 02' (not my truck) but, that's what I really want mine to look like.

I really don't think #209 is down around the pedals switch... I'm going to go down and disassemble the lower portion of the steering colum dash and poke around. That's my last try though... it would be nice to have it all right there but, tapping something else is becoming a much easier option. I want to do it right but, I also don't want it to be a mega pain in the ****.

RP

 

Brad,

I lost the pics you sent me of the contor harness and switch. If I remember it had 7 wires? 3 on top and 4 on the bottom?
Using the diagrams from your CD connect pin 1 & 7 to the slider motor. I would go pin 7 to the red motor wire and pin 1 to the white motor wire. Pin 3&4&6 to ground. Pin 5 to pin 5 from the power pedal harness. Finally pin 2 to a fused relay that takes power from the Acc delay. Note that the Motor may open when you press close and vise versa so if it does reverse the motor wires. This should have the slider work just like the power windows.

sscully,

Ideas? I don't have 2001 schematics so I can not positevly say where to get the Acc dely power.

JMC

 

My search has yeilded nothing... I can't find #209... it might be there but, I can't put my fingers on it. I checked overhead and removed a portion of the dash to see if it was taped in somewhere along the same loom with the lighting wires and the pedal wires. I've found zilch. Notta.

Switch and Wiring Harness

That should take you over to the switch and wiring harness...

I'm not sure I want to tackle tying it into the windows relay. I see the benefit but not sure that it's worth the effort to me personally. Would the pedals wires be sufficient to power the slider motor? I realize I wouldn't be able to use both at the same time but, if I could have this thing operational by simply running two wires (RED/YELLOW) from the back along the threshold and splice in an inline fuse on both. Then, I could tie the two wires that I ran from the back into their respective wires on the harness that I have. Would that work?

RP

 

Also, I guess before I make the decision to splice into the pedals wires, give me a brief run down of what it would take to tie it into the relay that powers the windows if you don't mind. If it's not a beast, I might be willing to try it...

I'm just worried I don't have enough electrical background or knowledge to make it happen.

RP

 

My mind is going 600,000 miles per second at the moment...

Why couldn't I just tie into the power windows switch with a splice connector? That would have me in on the same relay and thus have the ability to control the rear glass just like any one of the other windows... right?

RP

 

Brad,
Does the pic I e-mailed you look anything like the the connector from the contour? 3 wires on top and 4 on the bottom?

JMC

 

JMC, it's identical. Totally identical (with the exception of wire colors).

Check out the link I have above... click there and you'll see the harness...

RP

 

If they do put them side by side and splice the wire for pin #2 on the Contour connector to pin #2 on the power pedals connector. Do the same for pins3 to 3, 4 to 4, 5 to 5 and 6 to 6. Pins 1 and 7 on the contour connector go the the motor for the power sliding rear window. just don't use the pedals and slider at the same time or you risk blowing the fuse for the pedal circuit. You should check and see what else is on that same fuse so you don't run into a safty hazzard like no headlights, if the fues pops.

JMC

 

Good advice... I'll double check to see what else is on that fuse...

How difficult would it be to tie to the relay or simply splice power off of the window circuit to make it work like the rest of the windows?

The only 'con' that I see with tying into the pedals circuit is that it's 'hot' at all times and I risk the chance of bumping the switch getting out and cracking the back window (rain / vandalism / theft). It's probably a long shot but, I'd like to explore all options prior to doing it...

Again, I really appreciate the help. I just wish I knew more about this stuff... I'm definately learning but far from where I'd like to be...

RP

 

Brad,

Pin #2 is the power for for the switch.
Come to think of it did you say that you had a 2001 CD? Section 100 in the EVTM. 1st page shows the Central Junction Box. Circuit 400 off the Acc Delay Relay is hot only when the GEM tells it to be. That means in RUN, ON, ACC and for a bout 10 minutes after you shut off the truck and before you open the doors. Tap into that circuit and connect it to pin #2. let me know if you find it.

JMC

 

might not be much help, but the best place to t-tap an ACC Delay wire is in that big *** loom under the big oval in the dash (where the autolamp amplifier is). I THINK its light grey, I forget.

 

JMC,

Sorry I had stepped out last night.
The circuit 400 is the one that I found in connector C248 in the door, so tracing that back to the harness next to the fuse box is what I was thinking.
The other picture I emailed Brad had the circuit 193 which uses the window lock switch. This way if the window lock is on, the rear slider won't open like the other windows, until unlocked.
This is where bumping it with your knee can come into play, as an additional saftey feature...maybe ???
So if you run the additional power wire through the door wire loom, to under the dash, you could take circuit 400 or circuit 193.

The 2001 diagram shows the rear slider on the same circuit as the power windows without an additional relay in line, but then again this is without Ford having actually put in the power slider in there and testing it.
I guess if you can run all 4 windows up and down at the same time, the circuit should be albe to handle running the slider ( maybe ??? ).

Brad,
If you find the C209 up in the overhead console, pull down the headliner, and then you could get the new ends and pins from AutoZone, and extend the harness over the drivers visor harness route, and down the A pillar, and below the dash to get to the switch. That was my line of thinking ,but it is alot of work to use the stock connector in the back of the truck.

How about this.
Use Circuit 400 in either C248 or C242 to get power to the switch.
( factory power source ).
Use circuit 19 to get the switch illumination ( behind head lamp switch )
ground the other 3 pins for the switch ( using pinout C209 on page 100-10 3-4-6 ).
pins 1 & 7 extend to the pass side by the fuel inertia switch area and find C202 which is a 2 pin connector with the wire pairs violet-lt blue stripe & violet-lt green stripe.
These go to the connector C355 in the rear of truck cab. I am guessing below the window, it is not marked on the locator grid.
This way you would not have to run a new set of wires to the rear of the truck for the slider.
Maybe you should start by finding the C355 connector in the back of the cab first ? I am guessing that the motor is below the window, so the connector should just be right there below the window opening.

This might save you from having to run the length of the cab in the door sill channel, with the 2 wires for the window, I guess you would need to decide how much work one way is versus the other.

Steve

 

Dirt easy with the relay that you can get at AutoZone, and a few female spade connectors.
This is a drawing that soemone did for a Connie owner explaining how to upgrade the headlamp wiring on the bike, but the concept is still the same ( this is not my drawing )
http://www.mindspring.com/~gbyoung2/...dheadlamp1.gif

Pin 30 with the switch and fuse are the new lead from the battery ( Your switch is on the other side of the relay on pin 87 ).
Pin 87 is the power to the slider switch ( pin 2 on C209 ).
Pin 87A is not used in your case.
Pin 86 is connected to ground.
Pin 85 goes to the delay Assy feed circuit 400.

It seems that Ford has the Power slider on the same circuit as the power windows in the 2001 wiring digram, but they may have found out that this did not work ?? and put it on another fuse.
Is your power moon roof on the same fuse as the power windows ?
www.fleet.ford.com has the 2002 owners manual posted, and the SCrew uses the same power for the power windows and moonroof, so maybe this is inclusive to the rear slider ?
Maybe with the relay I am being a little overly safe, as Ford seems to run it off one power source. The only time there might be a problem using the same relay for the windows and moon roof and power rear slider, is if you try to get at them all at the same time, which maybe why they moved the rear slider switch away from the moon roof, so you could not use one hand on the rear slider and moon roof switches in the overhead console, and your left hand, running all 4 windows up. ??
Little harder to run all of them together when you have 3 different locations, what did you say about that knee
Your call, if you want to do the power plate, to run off the delay assy feed, or just run the relay off it, to power the rear slider, let me know and I can drege up a wiring diagram and run it past JMC .

 

Thanks for the insight pw1981... it'll kinda tough to run the wire all the way over there when I believe I'd have a delayed circuit coming off the windows... I don't know... would that one be easier to access versus running from the left side of the steering wheel over to the autolamp actuator?

RP