Reset PCM
Reset PCM
Hey guys... My truck was running poorly with low idle. I tried cleaning the throttle body and MAF. I have recently replaced my plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned my K&N filter. I was still having issues with low idle and stalling, so when I finally got a CEL, I took the truck up to be diagnosed at a local dealer and they diagnosed the need for a new IAC, thermostat (I think they were tacking that on), and a new PCV hose. I refused service and got the parts and did the work myself and save over $1150 on the deal. I ended up also needing to replace two other vacuum hoses (one had a hole in it and the other was very brittle).
I noticed on the estimate they gave me that they were wanting to charge an hour of labor for resetting the PCM. Does this involve anything more than disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting?
Any help on this would be great. Btw... truck is running great now and I no longer have to drive with both feet to keep the truck running!!
I noticed on the estimate they gave me that they were wanting to charge an hour of labor for resetting the PCM. Does this involve anything more than disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting?
Any help on this would be great. Btw... truck is running great now and I no longer have to drive with both feet to keep the truck running!!
Hey guys... My truck was running poorly with low idle. I tried cleaning the throttle body and MAF. I have recently replaced my plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned my K&N filter. I was still having issues with low idle and stalling, so when I finally got a CEL, I took the truck up to be diagnosed at a local dealer and they diagnosed the need for a new IAC, thermostat (I think they were tacking that on), and a new PCV hose. I refused service and got the parts and did the work myself and save over $1150 on the deal. I ended up also needing to replace two other vacuum hoses (one had a hole in it and the other was very brittle).
I noticed on the estimate they gave me that they were wanting to charge an hour of labor for resetting the PCM. Does this involve anything more than disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting?
Any help on this would be great. Btw... truck is running great now and I no longer have to drive with both feet to keep the truck running!!
I noticed on the estimate they gave me that they were wanting to charge an hour of labor for resetting the PCM. Does this involve anything more than disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting?
Any help on this would be great. Btw... truck is running great now and I no longer have to drive with both feet to keep the truck running!!

Hi.
They *may* have meant to REFLASH the PCM ( as in applying an updated strategy). For that, they will charge.
A simple reset - disconnect the negative terminal for a few minutes.
BTW - good job on fixin' yer truck!
MGD
Thanks!! I could not have done any of the repairs without reading posts on this site. It is a life (wallet) saver. I found the search button a long time ago... haha.
I haven't disconnected the battery yet, but I plan to do this when I get home tonight. I was just wondering if there was anything else I would need to do. I remember my truck needing time to learn the a/f mixture after I installed my CAI, so I assume that this "break-in" period will pertain to this as well. Thanks for your help.
I haven't disconnected the battery yet, but I plan to do this when I get home tonight. I was just wondering if there was anything else I would need to do. I remember my truck needing time to learn the a/f mixture after I installed my CAI, so I assume that this "break-in" period will pertain to this as well. Thanks for your help.
Just an opinion - I think the hole in the vacuum line may have been the source of your problem. But, it could have been a combination of that and the other things.
- Jack
- Jack
You're right... My self-diagnosis of the problem was a vacuum line bc I did lose power upon braking. Now I have another CEL, but Auto Zone says it was a misfire of #5... Hopefully it'll clear itself... Can't wait to get a Gryphon CTS after I get my tires and exhaust...
Trending Topics
Well, I got another CEL the other night. I didn't notice anything happening when the light came on. Engine was running fine. This morning on my way to work my truck stalled 4 times and I had some engine shudder (felt like I was driving down the emergency lane). I was on the highway, but there was a wreck ahead so it was pretty much a parking lot (a lot of stopping with short spurts of 3 mph joy
)
I'm going to go ahead and buy a code reader tonight and check everything out. I know that my description of this issue isn't good enough without codes. I don't know what could be happening now... I'm assuming it's a misfire. If so, I hope I can check out the plug and COP associated with that cyllinder. I know it'll be dark when I get home. If I find that I need a new set of COPS, what should I get? Everyone says either Global or Uneek from ebay... are these stores on ebay or brand names? I have found plenty of DG508 coils on there, but don't know what else to look for besides quantity and price. Thanks...
) I'm going to go ahead and buy a code reader tonight and check everything out. I know that my description of this issue isn't good enough without codes. I don't know what could be happening now... I'm assuming it's a misfire. If so, I hope I can check out the plug and COP associated with that cyllinder. I know it'll be dark when I get home. If I find that I need a new set of COPS, what should I get? Everyone says either Global or Uneek from ebay... are these stores on ebay or brand names? I have found plenty of DG508 coils on there, but don't know what else to look for besides quantity and price. Thanks...
Yes, I used Motorcraft Platinum... from memory, I think it was SP 493 or something like that. I drove the truck home today without incident and it actually seemed to run just fine.
I bought the scan tool today at Auto Zone... it's the Actron Pocket Scan Plus... kind of a nice unit. Anyway, I ran it and got the codes below:
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0174 - System too lean, bank 2
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
I cleared the codes for now. It was too dark to really get into anything tonight. I may have to wait for the weekend to get under the hood and check things out. There are so many things that could lead to these codes and I know these codes are on this site somewhere. I have done the following recently:
Spark plug change, fuel filter change, cleaned throttle body, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned K&N air filter, changed IAC, changed PVC valve and hose, changed two other damaged (deteriorated) vacuum hoses, ran Techron fuel additive through a couple times, and changed thermostat. The truck runs better now for the most part, but will act up occasionally. I was having to drive with both feet until I changed the PCV hose, valve, and changed the IAC. Since then, I've had three occasions of a shuddering engine and the misfire in #5. At least the misfire isn't jumping around like some other people have had. I am going to continue searching threads, but if someone has any ideas on why my system would run lean and have a misfire I'd appreciate and suggestions. Thanks.
I bought the scan tool today at Auto Zone... it's the Actron Pocket Scan Plus... kind of a nice unit. Anyway, I ran it and got the codes below:
P0171 - System too lean, bank 1
P0174 - System too lean, bank 2
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
I cleared the codes for now. It was too dark to really get into anything tonight. I may have to wait for the weekend to get under the hood and check things out. There are so many things that could lead to these codes and I know these codes are on this site somewhere. I have done the following recently:
Spark plug change, fuel filter change, cleaned throttle body, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned K&N air filter, changed IAC, changed PVC valve and hose, changed two other damaged (deteriorated) vacuum hoses, ran Techron fuel additive through a couple times, and changed thermostat. The truck runs better now for the most part, but will act up occasionally. I was having to drive with both feet until I changed the PCV hose, valve, and changed the IAC. Since then, I've had three occasions of a shuddering engine and the misfire in #5. At least the misfire isn't jumping around like some other people have had. I am going to continue searching threads, but if someone has any ideas on why my system would run lean and have a misfire I'd appreciate and suggestions. Thanks.
sometimes the problem of the coil fix the other 2 codes. Before changing spark and #5 coil, check a false contact in the coil's connector. and clear codes. if the problem persist, make a swap of coils between 5 and lests say 1 coil and clear codes wait until CEL appears and check if the problem still the same or swich to the opositive side. Fix ASAP because the catalytic converters are under risk. (By my own experience)







