My buddy at work just sold his 2005 and now wants to sell me his Edge 15051. He set it back to zero prior to removing it from his truck so all should be fine there.

I've got a few questions:

1. Will this unit work on my 2004 if he had it for his 2005? Both are 5.4's.

2. Are there any issues with this model?

3. What is a fair "used" price?

4. He is going to let me try it out prior to purchase so I can play around with it. Is there anything I should be worried about doing/not doing while I have it?

5. I run 35's in the summer, will this help my mpg's, shifting, etc?


THANKS!

 

1. Yes

2. Nothing I've heard about or experienced. Of course every product might have a few individual pieces with problems.

3. I bought mine new for $339 so maybe $250 but I really have no idea. I would check ebay and see what the used ones are going for.

4. Just follow the instructions and make sure you return your truck to stock if/when you give it back.

5. Yes

 

The only thing I can add to Hoss' dead-on response is that the FIRST time you program your truck with it, bypass the "custom tune option" that will come up. Just program it to a "standard" Level 1 or 2 tune (assuming you use 87 octane gas). This let's the unit build it's stock files properly. Then, if you want to correct for the tires, and you will, reprogram (to the same Level if you want) and set both your Tire Size (TS) and Gear Ratio (GR) to correct values. For 35's, I'd suggest 2709mm for the TS as a starting point.

- Jack

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

Is this unit beneficial if I don't plan on using anything over 87 octane? I'm too cheap to buy the expensive gas. In the near future my only other mod will be a true dual exhaust.

Also, when I put my 275/65/17s back on in the winter, how hard is it to reprogram everything for those?


I've never thought about buying a tuner until last nite at work when my buddy offered it to me. I don't know if the benefits out weight the potential gains/problems.

 

Yes, as long as you stay on Level 2. Level 3 is written for 91 octane. The thing is, I got enough better mileage on Level 3 that it offset the extra cost and performed much better.

 

Do you have a Cold Air Intake or just the stock air box?
with the 2004 you have the potential to run lean w/the CAI.
With 87oct your best level to run is level 2 tow.

 

The tire size is very easy to change. Will take about a 30 seconds max and the booklet that comes with it tells you what size in mm to put in. If you don't have the booklet someone on here can fill you in I'm sure.

 

No CAI. Just a lift and 35" tires and 3.73 limited slip. This summer I'll be adding a 2.25" true dual exhaust with rear cat delete and Dynomax Bullets.

I was reading the manual off their website. Why do they suggest slowly increasing the tire diameter rather than just putting in the current size? Is this the same incremental process I'll have to do each season when I change tires to increase/decrease?!

 

I'm not sure why they say to do that. I didn't do it and am happy with the results but my guess is that it has something to do with each manufacturer having slightly different sized tires. However, once you found the right size that optimized performance you would just input that value whenever you had to reprogram.

 

I don't know why the manual says that either. But, the Tire Size you'll get from the manual does not account for "squish" (the flattening of the tire at the contact patch). If you use their figures, reduce them by about 3% (multiply by 0.97) to account for this. That's what I did when I suggested 2709mm for 35" diameter tires.

If you don't account for squish, you'll be driving slower than the speedometer says, and, who wants to do that?

- Jack