You want real data. Its been explained I don't know how many times on this thread what the thing does why it dosen't work. Your engine management system is the most complicated and complex system you never knew you owned. It relys on proper information from all sensors to give you the proper timing and fuel trim so that your truck runs perfectly. Without the proper info the possibliltes of engine damage or at the very least clogging up your cats or f'ing up some valves is greatly increased.

 

Don't you think that if it did anything at all, Ford would spend the 10 cents to get the better fuel economy to help them meet the goverment requirements? They spend millions trying to improve average mpg. The price of a resistor would be nothing.

 

Sort of ...

I was referring to the operating condition where the PCM thinks the IAT is providing valid data - just for a ambient temp that is off by say 50 degrees. The PCM will fuel accordingly, the O2's will not care, the truck will still run in closed loop, but it will be running richer.

UNTIL (or IF, depending upon how agressive this POS 'chip' is) the fueling gets so rich that the PCM adjusts trims, and keeps adjusting until it hits the strategy's limits. Then presto ... CEL & limp home.

The thing is, the data is off by a fixed value (fixed resistor value), and is not anywhere near this limit. So runs more or less rich, all the time.

There are units like this that are actually potentiometers, variable from within the cab. Mild to wild, with wild usually triggering CEL's very quickly.

Sound plausible to you?

 

ok go to autozone, and get either some spectra tubing or one of their flex tubes(plastic flex tube should be $20) run it from somewhere that would get air that has the outside temp and run it right up to your filter. or if you have the one that has the open end, attach it there. try using an area that would get air into it almost like ram air, so have it pointing forward to get air forced into it while moving. it helps cool the air going into the filter so you should get a little more power while moving. i did it and felt a very slight increase in power with my V6. it will replace some of the warm air coming from the engine that is going into your filter. the tubing would work better but costs a lot. might end up spending $100 or just the flex tubing will cost $20. do it so that no water can get in it. so pretty much make the end going into your filter the highest part of the tube. heres mine.
this is the gap between the upper and lower bumpers on my 08.


and then the filter end.

 

of course, it would probably help me a little more if the opening was wider. plus this doesnt help anything off the line, just while moving like 40mph+. if anyone has an enclosed filter, this will work too. but yours will creat suction at the end. my way, there is no suction, just there to help the intake. it may help mine more than others because the L bracket is missing on mine so it might be replacing more hot air that anyone elses. my intaek is off of an 04 heritage V6 and the gap from the ataching points is different so the L bracket had to be removed.

 

thanks bud.

well seeing as i have a cold air, and this "chip" tricks the computer into thinking its cold air.. i guess itll go in the trash.

yall were right. i should have read through the threads first.
thanks anyways for finally convincing me. :/

but i know theres a mexican at school with his truck or v6 camaro or something that'll buy it from me. ill tell him that if he has the side vents, it adds up too 100 hp :P

 

while everyones here,

can anyone tell me who may have the quickest turn around for flashing a SCT6600. the 5 bank chip.
ive had one for like a year but never got it re programed for my truck. im not looking for any crazy good tunes. just something simple like milage and 87 octane.

ive been told troyer does great work but just takes forever..

 

i dont think you understand completely. this resistor tells the computer it is drawing in air of a certain temp all the time, we will say 40 degrees for example. so your computer adjusts everything to it as if you were driving in 40 degree weather. all your sensors should still read fine because the only sensor being read differently is the intake air sensor. the computer will change everything to account for 40 degree air and your other sensors shouldnt know the difference because your engine is still working properly. these sensors just tell your computer that it is drawing in a certain temp all the time. with this in, your truck should run the same, ALL the time. stock it runs different with 90 degree days compared to 20 degree days. 20 degree days you will see a little more power. that is all this resistor does.

 

i was just going to agree with you but then thought...why dont the car companies put cold air intakes on thier vehicles? my 04 got a combined 22.5mpg, probably got 24 or 25 highway. you would think they would have rather put that on thier window sheet instead of 20hwy

 

Oh boy ...

So - let's say it's actually 90 or 100 degrees out, and the Actual IAT is say 110 degrees. Now, you decide to hammer it. The computer will fuel and adjust timing advance accordingly - for what it thinks to be 40 degree air - a lot denser, intake charge is cooler, so it believes.

In goes way more fuel than is really acceptable, plus the TIMING is FAR more advanced than is SAFE for the ACTUAL charge temps. Can you say Detonation? If yer lucky. Then do it again, and again, and ... eventally BAD things happen. The least of yer worries will be reduced power...

All the extensive maps have a temperature component FOR a REASON. To adjust the fuel / advance and other parameters based upon actual conditions.

Look: that sensor is a PRIMARY sensor - THE PRIMARY and ONLY source of actual conditions. Spoofing it cannot be directly detected by the PCM ( save for the conditions I posted earlier)...

 

They do. That's what the stock one is.

Mileage will vary.

 

You don't need it when you are going over 40 because of all the cool air blowing in through the grille and existing holes.

There was someone on here a while back that did a temperature study of intake air versus ambient and showed how little difference there was at speed. It may have been in the Lightning forum or the tuning one. The search should find it. With an open filter like you have there would not be a vacuum or restriction like some of the enclosed ones.

 

I had one of these on my 04 when It was new. I instantly dropped a full second in the 1/4 mile.

You haters that are claiming this is snake oil are just upset you paid $400 for a tuner that doesn't improve even half the power and MPG this simple $20 box is doing.

 

So why is still not in there if it is such a great product?

I await the next thread by the OP that reads "I bought a $20 chip as a power adder and toasted my motor".

Less than $20 bucks to almost double your gas mileage and give you +75 HP. Come on. Take the crack pipe out of your mouth and wait until your head clears before you buy anymore stuff on ebay.

 

Unfortunately it wouldn't work with my blower application and I had to remove it. I sold it for exactly what I paid for it.