Does anyone have experience or knowledge on using the converter lock point adjustments on the Gryphon? Looking for advice on when to use it, also what adjustment points to use. Have read that if you change the lock point, you also have to adjust the unlock too. Also what are the advantages of modifing the lock points. I'm not having a particular problem, just want to get the best performance I can from the unit.

 

The biggest advantage is when you lower the lock (and unlock) points so the converter locks a little sooner. This helps fuel economy. Raising the T/C points should be done in conjunction with raising specific shifts to help maintain the same degree of spacing between shift and converter lock. Otherwise, you might get a shift followed immediately by the converter locking and the engine may lug a little.

In the grand scheme of things, it's not a critical adjustment. It's more about feel and personal preference than anything else. Then again, most shifting parameters are more about how they feel.

When playing with the shifting, be sure to monitor the [GEAR] PID on the display as well as [MPH] so you can see when and at what speed the shifts and lockup occur. Otherwise, you'll have no reference and making changes will be somewhat pointless.

Hope this helps.

 

Interesting, dfish. I emailed Bill with a similar question about this setting. His answer to me, although not worded the same, was just as informaitve. So, I tried setting the partial throttle shift points down and the torque converter lockup points down too. Overall, it feels more like what I want.

- Jack

 

I guess my questions are: How much do you raise or lower 1, 2, 3 points etc. and let's say I lower a lock point -1, what do you do with the unlock point? I would like to improve mpg so what would recommended settings be to start with? I don't want to blindly start screwing things up (as opposed to being informed and screwing things up!) and end up with a problem. I appreciate all your responses.

 

Here's my (possibly feeble) understanding of this:

If you lower a lock point by -1, you are actually lowering the speed at which the converter locks during partial throttle acceleration by 1 mph. Not much of a change at all. But, used in conjunction with a corresponding reduction in part throttle shift points, you should get into a higher gear setting with no converter "slippage" sooner, so your RPMs should stay lower and your fuel economy should improve somewhat.

But, if you lower the lock point without lowering your shift point, the converter may lock too soon, giving you a harsh shift feel.

Lowering the downshift points and corresponding unlock points should inhibit part throttle downshifting during "mild" acceleration or perhaps when maintaining speed going up hills. Again, the effect would be to keep the RPMs lower when you are not looking for maximum power, and are just "cruising".

Now, if my understanding of any of this is wrong, I hope to be corrected quickly.

- Jack

 

Right or wrong, I'm impressed that you sound as if you know what you're talking about! Good job!

 

Back when I was in the Air Force, we had a saying we'd use anytime inspectors came around, "Baffle 'em with bullsh*t".

I wasn't really trying to do that here, but I was sort of hoping to get confirmation that my understanding of these adjustments was right.

I guess though, if you sound authoritative enough, you can get away with saying anything!

- Jack

 

Jack stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

*Golf Clap*