how can i manage to get to that im thinking on adding these to my 5.4 06 f150

troyer 14inch e fans
troyer intake
edge tuner
true dual 40 flowmaster
maybe jba headers?
injectors?
wut else could i do to gain hp ?

any advice would be nice thx

daver

 

Troyer's XCal2 on 93 Performance
AF1 Intake
Magnaflow Cat Back
Under Drives
E-fans

will be in the ball park of 300 RWHP on a 2WD..
4WD will need more help.....

 

Boost!...no "ands", "ifs", or "buts"...300+

 

that will do it for sure...

 

Forget the Flowmasters and get the Magnaflow....

 

Just curious....you have all those mods listed except for the pulleys on what appears to be a 2wd in the pic and list 264rwhp....add pulleys and your up maybe 8, thats still 28rwhp short of 300.... Is that a 4wd?

 

Give Troyer Performance a call; Mike will be able to tell you exactly what mods you’ll need to achieve 300 rwh

TP’s custom tuning will be the most essential part of the equation, a must have IMO

 

I'm 2WD at 264, 325 at 43% humidity
ADD
pulleys 6-8
e-fans 17-22

neither one I have yet...
and I would be in the ball park of 300 RWHP
would probably hit 300 RWHP with good 93 gas and a very low humidity day....

 

Add the fans and pulleys and I bet you sit at 280ish.....thats a long way from 300 when all the bolt-ons have been exhausted.... You should be posting sae corrected numbers too, not std as on your dyno sheet, which would account for variances in weather and be lower than 264... I just pulled up a run from a 5.4 equipped Mustang I used to have and the difference between std and sae was 262 (std) to 250 (sae). Using uncorrected numbers is misleading, if you've got that run on your computer please pull it up and tell us what the sae corrected peaks would be...

I'm not trying to rag on you, I just disagree with telling the guy asking the original question that he can do a handful of bolt-ons and be at or even close to 300rwhp (sae is all that matters), its just not gonna happen.

 

Look up Neal the HP Freak's posts on this site.
His previous motor made more power than any I've seen with no blower or turbo, took a lot of work to get that kind of power. I think he was around 300-ish, but I can't recall for sure.

You can't just add-up claimed HP gains to arrive at a power figure, especially with uncorrected dyno numbers. If so, you could just put every bolt-on known to man on your truck and then you'd have like a billion hp.

Intake: 20hp
Exhaust: 20hp
T-body spacer: 10hp
Y-pipe: 5hp
E-fans: 16hp
Chip: 25hp

Put all that on your truck and we'll see if you gain 96hp...
I'll buy you a beer...heck, make it a case...if you do


Then again, what do I know...my cr@ppy non-PI heads don't flow for s#!t...thank gawd for blowers.

 

Well to be honest, I'm not up on all this Dynoing, corrected and uncorrected numbers.... but I can tell you that everything I've done to my truck so far has added right what Mike Troyer said it would....Thats good enough for me..

So, on that note I don't see why E-fans and pulleys wouldn't do the same....
Could be wrong, maybe wrong, but I don't think so.....

 

I don't have any mods except an Edge, and it made a big difference. It shifts firmer, it has more high end power, and I like the increased shift points. The best gain is when you first stomp the gas. It really helped that a lot. My truck will spin duals from a stop sometimes, now. It used to NEVER do that.

It idles smoother too, but that may just be the high octane gas.....

 

sorry to say , you are not hitting 300 with efans and pullies. they both do the same thing, relieving parasitic drag from the water pump off the motor. the pulleys do it by reducing the rotational size, the efans reduce rotating mass of the clutch fan

even combining both, on a good dyno day, you shoudl be expecting short of 20rwhp

 

The sae (society of automotive engineers) correction factor takes the actual weather conditions when you dyno'd (temp., humidity, barometric pressure, etc...) and corrects them to a standard set of conditions, which helps to make all the dyno runs done on different days, in different areas, etc... directly comparable. 99% of the dyno numbers you see on the internet are sae corrected, so if you want to go and post std numbers you are not directly comparable and don't have as much power (compared to others) as you think you do....

You are probably around 255/315 (sae corrected) now, and there's no way in hell you're getting anywhere near 45rwhp more from pulleys and fans. Do those two and I'd almost put money you'll be between 275-280rwhp (sae).

If you have the dyno run file for the run you posted and the free software from Dynojet you can pull the run up and change the correction factor to see what you are really at compared to the rest of the world.

 

Hi Guys,

Actually, the truth of the matter is that nobody can say what those power numbers "would be SAE" except us - which is done at any time by simply looking up his runs, which we just did - and the difference between his STD and his SAE numbers was a grand total of 3 RWHP.

When we do pulls, we look at the numbers in every form available, from SAE to DIN to STD to you name it - there are 6-8 different ways to list them on our dyno, for example - and in his case, the difference was a whopping 3 HP - period.

The vast majority of our customers tend to want printouts that reflect what the vehicle actually made under those circumstances at that time - not what it MIGHT do by some equation that varies from dyno mfg to dyno mfg, whether it's higher or lower than what SAE would show, but I do happen to look at them in each format during tuning on the dyno, as I'm a data hound. And frankly, that really isn't anyone else's business - those who think that the SAE corrected readings give some dead-nuts accurate apples to apples comparison are in for a surprise in many cases - we've been doing this for many years, and I'm not a big fan of the SAE corrections, because frankly, just for one obvious reason, dyno manufacturers implement them differently - some call it 72 F @ 50%, some call it 77F @ 47%, and so on - and that is not info they like to give out in many cases, by the way, as even among the dyno mfg's they have different views.

So while I do look at those numbers too, I'm not particularly enamored of "SAE" readings as being something everyone across the country with any type of vehicle in any state of modification under any conditions can actually use to compare with precision, as in reality, it just doesn't work like that in many cases. Especially for those who actually do proper datalogging of all powertrain conditions, you quickly find too many variations. In other words, it's *not* just what the dyno days, but *why* the power is what it is that also must be known to do "comparisons" - though I would agree that in many cases, about the best you can do is to use SAE for comparisons and do at least 6-8 pulls to keep everything hot and as close as possible - or do a cooldown procedure that allows stabilization of powertrain temps as close as possible under the conditions present with whatever vehicle & configuration you're dealing with.

What we all have to remember is that NO dyno is any kind of mythically accurate machine - they are all APPROXIMATE - period.

If I wanted to "sell numbers," hell, I'd have a dyno in here that many major chipmakers & speed parts manufacturers use, because they are "numbers happy" - for example, we have seen a couple of "major" name brand dynos that are very numbers happy both in terms of measuring absolute power as well as incremental - a couple of which are well known to show these trucks at 240+ RWHP stock when in fact, we see that they are far closer to 210 RWHP stock (this is 2004 & up 5.4 3V 4x4's I'm talking about in this instance).

I prefer a dyno that is a bit more realistic & perhaps even conservative - when we shopped dynos this last time, we looked at everyone from Maha to Dyno Dynamics to Superflow to Mustang 1750's (not a bad unit aside from needing to replace the belt frequently and it's software being a PITA) to you name it - and decided on a Dynojet 224 Xlc, the same type that a number of NASCAR teams buying dynos recently have been picking up.

I am not interested in "selling numbers," which probably makes me a bad businessman, especially in *this* industry, where all everyone thinks about is some big peak number to sell with - while I DO want to see big numbers of course, what I am interested in is the most accurate tuning platform that works best for us, for how we do our work -- we have the ability not only to see peak numbers, but also to do work at any throttle position, at any load, etc, so that we can properly test & tune for part-throttle torque at any load we desire with very good repeatability.

Just FYI - the absolute HIGHEST difference ever seen on our dyno between STD and SAE readings has been 8 HP - and that was on a significantly higher powered vehicle.

Now, to get on to what that gentleman really wanted to know, meaning, what would it take to get to 300 RWHP on the 2004 & up 5.4 3V? It varies - heck, with nothing more than our Stage 1 kit, the moderator here made 268/325 on his 4x4 King Ranch!

However, I would say to figure on our Stage 2 kit using the 3.25" version of the AF1 plus our longtube headers & high-flow cats will pretty much do the trick, or get it very close - it would really depend on just how much power it made stock. We're had a truck deliver as much as 312 RWHP (and yes, SAE - STD was 317 BTW) in that configuration, for an increase of a bit under 100 RWHP over stock in that particular 5.4 3V truck (it was 219 stock).

I hope that helps a bit,