I'm just curious I have put Magnaflow 16616 SIDO and AF-1 on my 05 KR 4x4, and I'm waiting for the XCal2 (on order from Troyer).

What kind of hp/tq did your truck put down??? 4.6L or 5.4L?

TW

 

I haven't been to the dyno yet. I'm gonna try to make it this Thursday so I'll let you know then.

 

Got it. I hope you get a nice big bump, everyone with this combo sez it's a real kick in the a$$ for these big ol' trucks!

 

I just know that for me stock the truck ran consistent high 16s with the factory 30" tires and it now runs mid to high 15s with the FX4 32s. That has to be a pretty significant power increase.

 

2005 f150 5.4L KR 4x4
This is with Troyer Stage 1 and the 93 performance installed
hp @ rear wheels = 241.38
max tq=298.81

 

Do you know the base values for your truck before the mods? just trying to see what the actual increase was on your particular truck, Josh

 

No I didn't get a chance to check it before the mods. Although, my right foot says there is a big difference from stock. Not to mention that it sounds like a truck should now

 

WOW.... 241hp AFTER the "performance" mods? Is this correct? WTF? Are you kidding? If you factor in 20% for drive train loss That would put you right at 240whp. BEFORE mods... These trucks are so f**king gutless it makes me sick. HOW CAN FORD CLAIM 300HP???? THEY MUST BE SOMETHING....

 

Somebody woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning!

Either HWM3 didn't make it to the dyno three days ago, or he didn't get the numbers he was expecting!

 

I had my 2003 SuperCrew Dynoed this summer. It is 5.4 with Magnaflow SISO and K&N FIPK.

216 HP
300 LB/FT Torgue

Haven't had a chance to dyno it with the XCAL2 yet but there is definetly a difference.

Ron

 

I have a 2005 5.4 Screw with K&N intake, Flowmaster DIDO exhaust and Superchips off the shelf 1745 Microtuner and went to the dyno. I got three pulls and the best was 241.98 rwhp and 343.71lbs torque. Temperature was 78 Degrees F and 29% humidity. I cleaned the MAF sensor because the K&N intake or any kind of intake with the oil based filter allows oil to coat the inside of the sensor. I ran a 4th pull and got 250.32 rwhp and 359.19 lbs torque at 82 Degrees F and 25% humidity.

It all depends on what the settings are when you run on the dyno. I sold my 1745 tuner and ordered the Troyer tuner and hope to get it in and run the dyno to see what the hp and torque increase is. Hopefully it is as much as they "claim". We will just have to wait to see.

Also, 300 hp stock is based on an engine dyno with no accessories like A/C and other things. The actual HP is about 278 at engine with about a 20% loss at the rear wheels.

 

Your torque numbers are outstanding

 

Tbizzle, your torque is significantly higher with the 1714 then with the Xcal2, just by comparing to the above dyno'ed truck, is this typical with the Xcal2 vs the 1714? I only ask as I am planning these mods for my truck and I am sure like most people I would rather have more torque, especially if the hp figures are close to the same, and isnt the 1714 cheaper then the Xcal2 as well? sorry for rambling, just wondering if this is typical or a isolated incident, Josh

 

Uh-uh....those ratings are engine dyno but with full accessories, the same intake tract (filter and all) as installed in the vehicle, and full exhaust as installed in the vehicle. The old gross hp ratings were much less restrictive, thats why a lot of old musclecars aren't nearly as powerful as they looked on paper....

 

Gentleman,

What has to be understood here is that dynos are NOT some mythically accurate machine - their numbers are relevant ONLY to that one day and that exact time on that one dyno with how the vehicle was positioned on the dyno and how the vehicle was driven and the dyno operated - period.

You cannot *ever* compare numbers run on different days, no matter what "correction" factors are used - that simply does not work. Nor can you even compare runs on the same day when the vehicle is taken off the dyno and put back on, as you;ll never get it in the exact same position, etc. There are so many variables that affect the power readings that it boggles the mind of anyone who isn't a true dyno expert, and even some of us who are.

And notice, not one single person has any stock numbers.

The ONLY way to get anything even remotely approaching correct before & after numbers is do dyno the truck both bone stock and with each mod, on the very dame day, and within a very tight timeframe, not more than 90 minutes - otherwise the data means very little. You also need to use a separate high quality weather computer - not the crap that comes with virtually very chassis dyno, as I have yet to see any of them be accurate - especially Dynojet's numbers. You have to calculate the effect on power that just 1-2 degrees difference in temperature makes, as well as the exact barometric pressure, density altitude, and humidity levels, as they have an effect not only on oxygen content but also make the ignition systems job much harder.

Heck, one huge factor is all of this is the simple fact that rarely do dyno operators change the filters for those systems every 6 hours as is required - usually they are in there for months, and I have *never* seen a single facility change filters even remotely close to frequently enough.

There is so much more to *proper* and accurate dyno testing than the vast majority of people will ever know , and more than even a lot of dyno operators know. The point is, never think of them as some mythically accurate device, because they simply aren't - I can and have literally taken the same vehicle to 10 different Dynojet 248's, and see a spread of 30 Hp between them - it happens all the time. So the first rule is, forget thinking that they are some mythically accurate device, because they simply aren't.

A chassis dyno is nothing more than a platform to allow you to run the vehicle at full-throttle thru it's entire rpm range in a 1:1 relationship in order to get the A/F's and datalog the other parameters needed to evaluate the tuning. The power numbers lean every little in and of themselves, and *that* is the thing that people really need to learn.

Add to that the fact that the vast majority of what you see are inertia dynos, like Dynojets., where they have only a 3600 lb static load - well guess what? Not a single F-150 made weights exactly 3600 lb, they all weight a LOT more than that - and without that much loading on them the power numbers simply cannot possibly be correct - without enough load, your power readings will always be lower than what they really are in a normally aspirated F-150.

Anyway, without getting off an a tangent, just realize that you need to forget about trying to do dyno pulls on inertia dynos to get accurate numbers, as there is nowhere near enough load, so the numbers will be low, especially as power goes up. And to stop thinking of dynos as some absolute measurement of accurate power, because they aren't. It's all extremely relative.

So without getting stock numbers on that same dyno, on that same day within a narrow time frame, both before & after you mods, you cannot possibly get any type of comparison - not only that, but when you change tuning, you also have to realize that when you first flash the PCM or disconnect the battery, adaptive is zeroed out and that will reduce power gains by anywhere from as little as 10 HP to as much as 20 HP - and the newer the vehicle, the most different you will see as a result of adaptive. We have been over all of this in great details before, where we documented the fact that in the 5.4 3V F-150, in just getting a few hundred more miles on it after reflash, using a world-class load bearing dyno in a climate-controlled dyno test cell, gaining another 13 HP in our own 2004 F-150 when it was bone stock, with nothing other than our tuning.

So what does the 300 HP 5.4 3V actually make at the rear wheels? Well, first of all, unless you remove the top speed limiter and raise the rev limiter, it cannot even make it's stock power rated numbers in the first place - but once that is done, with otherwise stock tuning, depending on the dyno you can get anywhere from a low of about 200 Hp at the rear wheels to a high of about 218 HP at the rear wheels on the most accurate dynos. Why so much less than the 300 Hp rating?

(Con't)