Intel, help me break my habits ;)
Intel, help me break my habits ;)
First a little backround info. I wash my truck weekly and wax monthly, weather permitting. We sometimes have harsh winters and I don't have a garage. I use cotton terry towels rather than a mit or sponge to wash the truck, thinking that I can keep it cleaner and maybe feel a pebble or something before it scratches. I also use a chenille (sp?) type mop to wash the roof, hood, windsheild and rear window (I'm rather short). I wax my truck using cotton terry towel or bonnets. I've been using a Craftsman 9" buffer for over 10 years (shown below). The buffer, I think, not only spins, but orbits. I usually apply the wax with the buffer and remove it by hand. I've normally been using Meguier's waxes. I've done the above for 9 years on my Ranger with no bad results (scratches/swirl marks) as far as I can tell, but it wasn't a clear coat finish. My new truck is.
Questions...
Am I using the right towels to wash my truck or is something else recommended?
Is my buffer safe to use with the cotton terry towels? I bought a foam bonnet today thinking that it might be a better choice. I certainly don't want any swirl marks if I can help it. I'd have no problem investing in a better buffer if needed, but I'm afraid of using something that I might burn the paint.
Intel, you seem to have a lot of experience with ProWax's products. Do you recommend them? I think you posted that the P-21s wax leaves no white residue. Does this mean that it will not turn stone chips into white dots? I'd like to find a good wax/polish that will "hide" chips and scratches. Is there something else that might be better at this?
Thanks a lot everyone,
Matt
Questions...
Am I using the right towels to wash my truck or is something else recommended?
Is my buffer safe to use with the cotton terry towels? I bought a foam bonnet today thinking that it might be a better choice. I certainly don't want any swirl marks if I can help it. I'd have no problem investing in a better buffer if needed, but I'm afraid of using something that I might burn the paint.
Intel, you seem to have a lot of experience with ProWax's products. Do you recommend them? I think you posted that the P-21s wax leaves no white residue. Does this mean that it will not turn stone chips into white dots? I'd like to find a good wax/polish that will "hide" chips and scratches. Is there something else that might be better at this?
Thanks a lot everyone,
Matt
your buffer lasted...
10 years?...mine won't make 10 months...i apply the wax with those kiwi applicator pads then buff off with terry cloth bonnets then go for the hard shine with the woolen bonnets....check out my photo gallery under TexfordD..i have changed from eagle one to meguires classic shine...but you do have to let the mequiers go to a full haze....so dont get in a hurry putting it on
Make sure you are using 100% cotton towels. No polyester!
For washing your fear isn't a pebble. Your fear is dirt particles, etc. which you won't be able to feel even when using a cotton towel to wash. Up to you but I would suggest switching to a 100% cotton washmit.
For waxing applying wax with the buffer is fine. I do it all the time. I buff the wax off by hand though.
Your buffer looks like an orbital. I actually don't like terry cloth bonnets or foam bonnets. The foam bonnets are easy to tear. I use a DA buffer that has a foam pad that sticks to a hook and loop pad for applying waxes.
I like the Pro wax products and use them professionally. P21S is not made by Pro though. When I say it won't stain, I mean it won't leave white residue if you get it on any plastic or rubber molding. Rock chips are a different story. No wax is going to hide them. If you don't like the white residue in them, then you need to switch to a synthetic, which won't leave any residue. I like Klasse SG. It would look really nice on your red truck.
For washing your fear isn't a pebble. Your fear is dirt particles, etc. which you won't be able to feel even when using a cotton towel to wash. Up to you but I would suggest switching to a 100% cotton washmit.
For waxing applying wax with the buffer is fine. I do it all the time. I buff the wax off by hand though.
Your buffer looks like an orbital. I actually don't like terry cloth bonnets or foam bonnets. The foam bonnets are easy to tear. I use a DA buffer that has a foam pad that sticks to a hook and loop pad for applying waxes.
I like the Pro wax products and use them professionally. P21S is not made by Pro though. When I say it won't stain, I mean it won't leave white residue if you get it on any plastic or rubber molding. Rock chips are a different story. No wax is going to hide them. If you don't like the white residue in them, then you need to switch to a synthetic, which won't leave any residue. I like Klasse SG. It would look really nice on your red truck.
Intel,
Thanks so much for the help. I'll get a decent cotton wash mit & give Klasse a try.
Could you elaborate a bit more on the buffer issue? I'm not sure if the one I have is safe with cotton and/or foam bonnets as far as swirl marks. I'd gladly upgrade for a better finish, but I don't use it daily like you and would probably put up with it if it's only an inconvienence issue that you were refering.
Thanks again,
Matt
Thanks so much for the help. I'll get a decent cotton wash mit & give Klasse a try.
Could you elaborate a bit more on the buffer issue? I'm not sure if the one I have is safe with cotton and/or foam bonnets as far as swirl marks. I'd gladly upgrade for a better finish, but I don't use it daily like you and would probably put up with it if it's only an inconvienence issue that you were refering.
Thanks again,
Matt
Too late tonight but I'll get pictures of the buffer I use and the pads, etc.
With the buffer I have, it can be used to polish. So, if you have scratches you want to take out, then you can go ahead and take them out.
With the buffer I have, it can be used to polish. So, if you have scratches you want to take out, then you can go ahead and take them out.
Hey Intel, let me ask you a question about a buffer. I was looking threw a catalog and saw a Porter cable buffer.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....1004&SKU=10625
Now i was wondering if you think this is a good item? The way they say in there catalog is that not only can you polish a finish, but you can also clay the finish with this buffer.
Is it better to do everything by hand or do you think this can be the way to apply polish and wax and clay?
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....1004&SKU=10625
Now i was wondering if you think this is a good item? The way they say in there catalog is that not only can you polish a finish, but you can also clay the finish with this buffer.
Is it better to do everything by hand or do you think this can be the way to apply polish and wax and clay?
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The Porter Cable buffer's motor gets very hot, and you cant push really hard without making it actually stop. I have used Intel Dewalt buffer, and you can apply as muc hpressure as you want, and you cant even slow it down. Also after doing a whole truck, it is not even hot. Save your money and buy the Dewalt. you can find it online for like $145
Originally posted by psychoscrew
Hey Intel, let me ask you a question about a buffer. I was looking threw a catalog and saw a Porter cable buffer.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....1004&SKU=10625
Now i was wondering if you think this is a good item? The way they say in there catalog is that not only can you polish a finish, but you can also clay the finish with this buffer.
Is it better to do everything by hand or do you think this can be the way to apply polish and wax and clay?
Hey Intel, let me ask you a question about a buffer. I was looking threw a catalog and saw a Porter cable buffer.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....1004&SKU=10625
Now i was wondering if you think this is a good item? The way they say in there catalog is that not only can you polish a finish, but you can also clay the finish with this buffer.
Is it better to do everything by hand or do you think this can be the way to apply polish and wax and clay?
Don't clay with a buffer. Too dangerous and you won't gain any speed. Claying doesn't take that long anyways.
Originally posted by msteis
Thanks Intel. I'll look forward to the pictures.
Matt
Thanks Intel. I'll look forward to the pictures.
Matt
This is the DeWalt. It is a 6" pad next to it.

This is my Makita Rotary. You can see a smooth pad on the buffer and a waffle pad next to it

This is a DeWalt 6" pad sitting on a 8" pad for my Makita Rotary. They are nice, thick foam.
Intel,
Will the Dewalt buffer give me a better finish with less chance for swirl marks compared to the one I have?
It looks much easier to handle than mine. I'm a bit worried though as I'm not very talented as far as buffing out vehicles. Does it take great care to avoid burning the finish or doesn't it run fast enough? Oh yeah, what's the waffle pad used for?
Thanks for your patience, Intel. All of my detailing knowlege was pretty much sumed up in my original post
.
Matt
Will the Dewalt buffer give me a better finish with less chance for swirl marks compared to the one I have?
It looks much easier to handle than mine. I'm a bit worried though as I'm not very talented as far as buffing out vehicles. Does it take great care to avoid burning the finish or doesn't it run fast enough? Oh yeah, what's the waffle pad used for?
Thanks for your patience, Intel. All of my detailing knowlege was pretty much sumed up in my original post
.Matt
The DeWalt is easy to use. It is pretty much Fool proof and anyoen can produce a good finish with it.
The waffle pad is used with a rotary but the rotary takes some practice to use. The rotary can burn through paint as the DeWalt doesn't produce enough heat to do so.
The waffle pad is used with a rotary but the rotary takes some practice to use. The rotary can burn through paint as the DeWalt doesn't produce enough heat to do so.


