I bought a new F150 4x4, and it's black. I went offroad and the tree branches attacked it! Anyone recommened a type of wax or cheaper way to get them out with out having to take it someone where and paying over 100 to have it buffed.

 

Wax just protects the paint, it won't get out scratches. You'll have to use a polish for that. I'd start with the least abrasive polish (one that says safe for clearcoats) and then move to the more abrasive (usually named scratch removers). I think all the brands people recommend here - Zaino, Zymol, Meguiars, Mothers, even Turtle Wax - make such products.

It's a lot easier to get out if you have an orbital buffer. And of course if the scratch is too deep you will only be able to improve the appearance of it, but not remove it.

Also, be sure to apply a coat of wax afterwards to the area you polished.

 

Thanks for the advice, cpadpl.

A tree reached out and scratched my driver's door today and I was fretting over it. Sounds like some polish, elbow grease, and then wax will solve my problem!!

 

You'l need an orbital buffing machine, you cann't get that deep by hand .

 

then go to 3M's line of products.

Go from mild to aggressive.

First try 3M finesse-it II finishing material
the 3M fine cut rubbing compound.

You will need a buffer, I recommend Porter Cable 7424, builds enough heat, but you wont burn the paint. If you can feel it with your finger you are probably stuck with it.

 

Howies_effie,

I would agree with the others that an orbital buffer would make the job much easier. Depending on your scratch, I disagree that you must have one, as I have gotten minor scratches out with polish by hand (but it wasn't easy and I wished the entire time I had the orbital). Also, if they aren't deep and you do it by hand you can work on it over a period of time, and eventually the appearance will improve. I am trying to advise you based on your stated desire not to spend "$100" for a professional, so I assume you don't want to spend $150 on a orbital buffer.

Another tactic I have employed - Go to your local Ford dealership that you bought the truck from. I had a NASTY scratch in the roof (don't ask me how I got it) a week after I bought the truck (so deep I could really feel it). Went to the Ford dealership, asked for some help, they took the truck back to the body shop, 15 minutes later it came back out super-buffed out of existance and NO CHARGE.

 

SCOOBY14B,

Please tell me about your Wet Okole seat covers. I have a 2000 XLT 4x4, deep wedgewood blue with dark graphite inteerior (same interior as yours). What color covers did you go with? Are you happy with them and do feel they were worth the $200 or so bucks?

 

I like them. I got the black trim (no choice) and #11 (charcoal I think). They tend to make you sweat a little, but not as much as leather. They are very comfortable.

I spent $301 with two bucket seat covers, S&H, shampoo, odor neutralizer and UV protectant.

Ordered from www.wetokole.com

 

Thanks for all the advice guys... My truck is going to the dealer for a few warranty repairs so I will ask them if they can buff out the scratches too.

If not, I will bite the bullet and get a decent orbital buffer. My wife's new Mustang GT has a nice scratch on the bumper cover so I can use it there also.

 

If you do get a buffer look at the porter cable 7424. You can get it from coastal tool for about $110-120. ( www.coastaltool.com ). Go to www.autopia-carcare.com for their pad kit ($60-75). It has 5 pads with velcro backing (cutting, polishing and finishing) and a velcro backing plate. Also their detailing forum provides wealth of info.

The PC does not have to be used just for scratches. It has a variable speed control (2500 rpm to 6000rpm). It is not a rotary meaning the head oscillates as well as spins and does not build up the heat that a rotary does. I have used 3M's medium cut rubbing compund @ 5000 rpm without burning. It left micro scratches which needed buffing out, but got the deeper scratches out. This was on a 2000 Taurus.

It is truly a great machine. Will provide YEARS or use.