OK I finally got myself a D/A and I'm scared to death I'm gonna screw something up. Got a few questions, remember to answer in dummy speak b/c I'm new at this.

The package I bought was;
Groits 6"
2-orange pads 1 L/C and 1 something else
1-blue pad by L/C
1-white pad by L/C
Meg's 105
Meg's 205

1) How do I tell if a pad is worn out?
2) I know the Orange is for the 105 & 205 Are all Orange pads about the same cut?
3) For polish application, Blue or White?
4) Use the D/A for application of polish and wipe with M/F towel?
5) Which polish (in Meg's line) New car or Show car? (forgot the numbers)
6) I like my NXT 2.0 but I have paste, do I need to get liquid?
7) Have heard that Carbnuba really makes it pop, NXT first then Carnuba?
8) Which pad for wax application Blue or White?
9) Can I use the same pad for both waxes?

Probably have about a hundred more questions but I'll limit it to these for now.

Of course all this will be done on the wife's Expy first to make sure I got it right! Also if it makes a difference her's is Silver and mine is Dark Shadow Gray.

Thanks in advance and be easy on a noobie at this.
Jim

 

With the package you purchased, you're definitely on the right track

Being someone who just picked up my first DA, I too am still learning more and more. I'm always nervous to try out a new compound..

1) How do I tell if a pad is worn out?
-My practice might be a bit overkill, but I always use a new pad for the finishing glaze or final wax. For polishing and when I use an abrasive such as ScratchX or Ultimate Compound, I've reused the pads for those a few times. I've only used the Ultimate Compound on my car once, and on my girlfriends Jeep. I've honestly not had to use those as much. Just a quik-detail on weekends and a claybar/wax once again before winter.
2) I know the Orange is for the 105 & 205 Are all Orange pads about the same cut?
3) For polish application, Blue or White?
4) Use the D/A for application of polish and wipe with M/F towel?
-I always have used the DA for polishing. I've never had great luck polishing by hand. The DA works a lot better IMO. Using the DA has it's risks though. In this case, research and practice is essential. Pressing too hard and you can do harm to your clear coat with aggressive compounds, but you should be fine with polishes.
5) Which polish (in Meg's line) New car or Show car? (forgot the numbers)
-This will come down to the condition of the vehicle. You really will just have to do some research on the products, and start out with something that would be considered a very minor abrasive. If the scratches/swirls are deeper, you might consider using a more harsh compound.
6) I like my NXT 2.0 but I have paste, do I need to get liquid?
-I only use the NXT liquid with my DA. I've always had great results with NXT 2.0
7) Have heard that Carbnuba really makes it pop, NXT first then Carnuba?
-You got this one right IMO! I use the NXT first, simply for it's protection and durability. It's very easy to apply and remove. I follow it with Carnauba (usually Meguiars Gold Class or M26) I might also add that I let the NXT sit, or cure, for 12-24 hours before doing the Carnauba. Not sure if that's essential, just something I do
8) Which pad for wax application Blue or White?
9) Can I use the same pad for both waxes?
-I always use a different pad for each compound/wax. (One for ScratchX, one for Polish, one for Wax, etc.) For the final wax, I always use a new pad. Some may be good for a while, but I typically detail both vehicles and possibly a friend's, parent's, etc. over the same weekend. I've used a pad for 5 cars at the most, (my record for a weekend )

Luckily there is a ton of information out there. I always do a little studying up before a "detailing session." Autogeek is your friend! Same for Meguiar's Online. Another final bit of advice is to always plan ahead. Make sure you have plenty of time and the weather/environment is safe for a good detail session. Not fun to just finish up stripping your old wax/protectant and a storm cloud passes over, Yes I speak from experience on that one LOL. A garage or shop would be the best environment but not required. Last step is have fun and enjoy the results! A DA is a ton of fun. Money well spent

 

Thank you for the reply, I know I'm probably over thinking this but I want to be sure.

I got the D/A from Auto Geek and it came with a DVD, but it was more like a commercial than instruction. Trust me I've done a ton of reading, but just like a good steak-reading about it and tasting it are two different things.

Keep them comming, and thanks.

 

I’m going to preface my whole reply with a suggestion that you read the Sticky at the top of this forum, then read my reply below.

1) How do I tell if a pad is worn out? First, let me clarify. Do you mean “worn out” as in “throw away” or “needs to be cleaned?” I do quite a bit of detailing and can tell you that it’s pretty tough to actually wear a pad out to the point of throwing it away in occasional use. As for needing cleaning, that depends on what product you are using, how much you use and how bad the surface is. If you use too much product and / or are removing a lot of contaminants or paint, they can fill up pretty quickly. You’ll know a pad needs cleaning / replacing when the surface fills up and / or it doesn’t cut as well anymore.

2) I know the Orange is for the 105 & 205 Are all Orange pads about the same cut? Orange isn’t just for 105 / 205. Orange pads are for when you need to do a lot of correction. Generally speaking, this also means you use a more abrasive product – like M105. But, you can use a less aggressive product with an orange pad to get less cut. BTW, different color pads from different manufacturers are indeed different cuts.

3) For polish application, Blue or White? You need to define “polish” here. If you mean “correction,” you can use those pads, but they don’t cut as well as an orange or white pad. If you mean wax / sealant / LSP, you generally use the least aggressive pad you have. I generally apply LSPs by hand and use the machine only for correction. I think you’ll find that for most work, white will be your “go to” pad.

4) Use the D/A for application of polish and wipe with M/F towel? Again, see above for definition of polish. I apply product to the pad and use the DA to correct until the product is “finished.” I then remove the excess with a microfiber towel before the next step.

5) Which polish (in Meg's line) New car or Show car? (forgot the numbers) Same as before on “polish,” but here I’m assuming you mean the LSP. If that’s the case, it’s a personal preference.

6) I like my NXT 2.0 but I have paste, do I need to get liquid? No. Different strokes for different folks – same product.

7) Have heard that Carnauba really makes it pop, NXT first then Carnauba? You can add layers in that order and it does give a little more pop. Allow 24 hours for the NXT to cure though.

8) Which pad for wax application Blue or White? Softest pad.

9) Can I use the same pad for both waxes? I always use one pad per product. If I change products, I change pads.

 

For polish, use Megs Ultimate Polish; white pad (LC)
Lose the NXT; go to Blackfire Wet Diamond, and for real pop after LSP, use some Wet Glaze 2.0 (use blue pad, set to slow speed for LSP appl).
Generally speaking, remember to keep the pad spinning while working; higher speeds on the Griots seem to generate more torque, so set to 5-6 while using #105/#205.
If the #105 drives you crazy by flashing, mist pad with H2O or Detailing spray or use Ultimate Compound instead. Travel S-L-O-W (1"/second) while compounding or polishing.

Jim

 

I probably should have prefaced this thread with the acknowledgdment that I know as many questions that I have, there will be at least that many opinions. Thanks for the replies.

2stroked, as for the polish I'm thinking the last step before a wax is applied, as in if needed-105 then 205-then a polish-then NXT (NXT or a Carnuba as the last step). Don't beat me if I have the 105 and 205 in the wrong order, HA HA. I know least agressive method first to see if it works, then if not go for the heavier stuff.

Thank you for your detailed reply.

Jaymz- you are the dirty dog that pushed me towards the Groits polisher in the first place, don't know if I should thank you or curse you for that.........I guess time will tell. HA HA I posted once that I was saving for a P/C and you pointed me in the direction of the Groits, thanks it does seem to be a much better machine.

So what you are saying is no Carnuba and use the Wet Glaze? In my Detail Kindergarten mind I don't know what a glaze does. Does it protect like a wax or just make it shine with no protection? Keep in mind neither of my vehicles are garaged, if that makes a difference.

Dadgum you guys, I want to go out and get started now, but here in So Cal we are having our 1 scheduled rain storm today!

Thanks
Jim

 

Few side notes in addition to the above posts.

The Lake Country orange pads, are they Orange or are they the Hydro Tech Tangerine pads ?
- Make a difference, just looking at them, they are visually similar, but one is a light cutting pad ( compound / polish ) the other is a Finishing ( polish ) pad, and they will react different.

What is the "something else" pad ?
- If it is yellow, be very careful about what you do with that.

Same question as the orange pad for the blue pad, is it a blue foam pad ( finishing ), or a Cyan HydroTech pad ( light cut ).

You are sure these are Lake Country pads ( other manufactures use almost a reverse color code on their pads ).

1) How do I tell if a pad is worn out?
A1 - You will most likely drop or fling a pad off the DA before you get a chance to wear one out. They will last a long time if taken care of for home owner use ( or light pro use like Tom ).
I know I have never worn a pad out, I either drop them on the floor or fling one off the DA when on high speed, and off to the hack pad bin / trash can for it.

Biggest thing is to clean them once you are done using them. If you are starting out, I suggest a plastic 1 gal paint screen or plastic wash board to clean them with. Just be careful not ram the leading edge into the screen and work at separating the velcro from the foam.
Once washed, use a clean bucket to given them a high speed spin on the DA ( in the clean bucket so when if they fling off, they are not trash ) to kick start the drying, and mount them to the bottom of a shelf / cabinet with the mating velcro that is the double back tape kind ( I use the 2" wide version, have ti everywhere in the garage ).

I have a boat load of pads, so even after washing them, I use them for the same product again. That is a personal pref item, not a bible type action.

for which pad for what :
right click save as
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/applic...tion-guide.pdf

I did a PoorBoys World product guide to help out with the pad to product for them, but it will give you an idea of what you could be looking at for other products ( just watch items like ProPolish & ProPolish 2, those are chemical polishes that change aggressiveness based on the pad )

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VRXc2t5cGlpdWc

My personal review of Wet Glaze 2.0, don't bother.
This is show queen for a day product, one wash and it is gone.
Tested this and the Chem Guys Black light side by side and they both work great, until it gets road rain against it, or washed.
- If you want a quick pop for a car show, that is what this is for.
Daily Driver, not worth the time you are better off layering a glaze with a compatible LSP ( wax / sealant ) if you want added depth and duration.

 

Steve, now you are startin to skeer me!

Pads I have are;
L/C Orange #78-24650DA CCS
L/C White # 78-64650DA CCS
L/C Blue#78-94650DA CCS
and the odd ball is Gtoit's 6" orange Foam Polish Pad-no part number

Thanks for the links, every little bit helps. It looks like I might need to order some more pads.

BTW the kit I got is the Meg's swirl remover that was offered at Auto Geek.

 

Nothing to be scared about, just asking the question, to be sure.
- I know when people see me use Orange ( foam ) then Orange ( HydroTech ) I have gotten the question of why I am using the same pad for everything.

Those are standard LC foam pad color codes.
Orange = Light cutting
White = Polish
Blue = Finishing

The Griot's Orange pad is an example of a different manufacture color code, that is a Polish pad ( not light cut like LC ). It would be in the same category as the white pad from LC.

Before you order more pads, give the ones you have a try. You might find that you don't like the CCS ones, and want to go with the flat LC foam pads ( or maybe you will like the Griot's Garage pad, and order those ? ).

Didn't know what you got or from where, that is why I asked the question.

 

Well, enjoy the Griots, IMHO a much better appliance than the PC.

The Wet Glaze 2.0 (aside from the other comments below) is not a glaze in the usual sense of the word (Megs #7, for example). The WG 2.0 is a gloss enhancer, and adds a nice pop to the finish that is very wet-looking. I find it lasts fine, and applies and removes so easily, that I use it all the time.

If your vehicle is outside, I might suggest using the Blackfire Wet Diamond (really marvelous stuff), and top it with Collinite 845: it's cheap, easy to apply and tough as nails.

Jim

 

Gentelmen, thank you all very much for your help. I guess all I need to do now is find the time and weather and jump in!

Perhaps over the new years weekend I'll be able to give it a shot.

As someone once said; "Here hold my beer, watch this!"

 

jgger,

I think we may have some confused you just a bit here in relation to wax vs. polish and how aggressive of a product to use when. Let me start with wax vs. polish.

When I got my first car, I (eventually) wanted to “wax it.” So I went down to the local auto parts store and looked at the wall of “waxes” they had. Most of the products in the vast selection claimed that you simply applied them and wiped them off and you were rewarded with a car that looked like new and was protected for months. I forget what I picked up, bit sort of worked.

But here’s the rub. (No pun intended.) After years of practice, I have learned that no single product will do everything they promised. You actually need several products – unless of course you vehicle is brand new. First, most older vehicles will have some amount of surface defects that detract from the shine and need correcting. This is where you need a “polish.” But, not all surface defects are created the same. So, just like sand paper, you need products that are more and less aggressive to correct the various defects. And just like sand paper, one starts with more aggressive products and works down to the least aggressive.

But what about “least aggressive product first?” That is one of the cardinal rules of detailing and it’s still very correct. One never wants to start with too aggressive of a product and actually induce defects the need further correction. What that rule means is that you never want to wade in with something super aggressive (like M105) to start when you don’t have anything serious to correct. That way you’d have less work to do with less aggressive products to get to that final, beautiful shine. So one generally starts with a less aggressive product and works up the scale until you get the desired level of correction. They you move back down the scale to get back to perfect paint.

And that brings me back to my second point. Most of the products that you see us talking about here are either polishes or last step products (LSPs). We really don’t believe in miracles in a bottle because they don’t work. So after you step down appropriately with polish aggressiveness to a perfect surface, then you need to apply an LSP to protect the surface and add a little luster. LSPs can be classic “wax” products – but with none of the cleaners / polishes some of the off the shelf stuff includes. Or they can be synthetic sealants (Zaino, Menzerna Power Lock, Poor Boys ESP, etc.) that serve the same purpose, but without the classic wax base.

But what about all of the products on the store shelves? Well, some of them are decent – for 90% of the public that just wants to slap something on quickly and feel like they’ve accomplished something. But none of them will do what separate polish and LSP products can do in the right hands. I never had anybody compliment me on one of my old cars with J Wax Kit or Rain Dance on it. I’ve had many people ask me what wax I use on my current vehicles. And you ought to see their eyes roll when I tell them what I went through to get that shine.

 

2Stroked, thanks. I completly understand least agressive first. Where my eyes start to resemble a Vegas slot machine is in all the different stuff out there, just like any noobie.

The most agressive I have ever used on my vehicles id Meg's ultimate compound by hand. For the most part it has served me ok, but the hand work after claying is tuff on a 60 year old man. So now I'm stepping into the D/A world, both my vehicles are our DD's and I have no visions of them winning any car shows, just want them to look better than average Joe Blow's. I really don't think that either one will need much, if any, of the 105 and it will probably go bad in the bottle before I run out.

Trust me I know that nothing as far as advise is "THE" total answer, but I gotta get my feet wet sometime. I think I have the ability to produce the look I'm after, just trying to do my homework before I start.

My plan of attack is;
Wash, yes I use 2 buckets
Clay
Correct with 105 if needed, but start with 205
Here is the rub for me......I assume that a polish is a VERY fine type of compound to be applied before the "wax" A.K.A LSP. Now if I'm using say Meg's NXT then put something on top of that then the NXT really isn't the LSP. So do I top off the NXT with a Carnuba, a Glaze, or a.......We have now reached the point that I resemble the previously mentioned slot machine.

Thank you for your patience with a hard headed old fart. And I got a kick out of the J-Wax comment, years ago it was my go to product. It was the best I could find to remove the fly poop off my Yellow truck! Used to do it once a month minimum and sometimes every 2 weeks. But I did get compliments on it.......once in a while!

 

LSP is Last Step product, which as Tom posted is traditional wax or a synthetic protectorant.

You can layer LSP products ( if they are compatible ).

Not that the term LSP is used with it ( although a few manufactures do ) Glaze is not considered a LSP, but it can be the last thing applied ( as long as protection & duration is not an issue ).

Meg's NXT is a LSP. You can add another compatible LSP over it, just watch that what you are layering and how you are layering it is not repositioning or disturbing the LSP you are topping.

Some liquid products have carriers to keep the product in liquid form, and this can disrupt the bonding of some previous applied LSPs if applied with a DA at too high of a speed ( or with the wrong pad ).

If you have a paste carnauba wax that you are applying with a red pad by hand, this should be fine over any other LSP ( best to check what you are doing with the mfgr of the products ).

Glaze might cause an issue with the LSP you are layering it over if you apply it at too high of a speed even with a red pad and from the same manufacture.

Also watch that the LSP you are using does not have a bonding / curing time before the next layer.
This is where multiple coats of the same product are applied, and if not done after the recoat time, you are just spreading the same coat around and around, not actually layering and it can turn into 1 thick coat that never bonds to the surface, so duration of the protection is shortened.

Think of wood working, if you don't do a good prep job with sanding and staining, the poly at the end if going to look like crap no matter what you do with it.
Taking the time to do the sanding ( clay, polish - if needed in areas compound & polish again - finish polishing with a black pad ) then applying stain ( Glaze - LSP alternating layers or 1st LSP ) and then Poly ( LSP that has some duration to it be it carnauba or synthetic ) the project will turn out great.

Keep in mind the terms are there for reference only, so when you see LSP think carnauba wax or synthetic sealant / wax.

Also, don't know if you care, some synthetic products can give paint the saran wrap look to them ( intensifies the orange peel ) so putting the time with a carnauba wax over this is just burring daylight.

 

Thanks Steve, believe it or not it's starting to make sense. I guess I'm on my way down the slope now.

As in the movie "Bugs Life" they said "Don't look at the light.........(and the reply) But it's so beautiful!