On a recent trip my truck was parked and got hit by a sprinkler that left some atrocious water spots on the truck. I have not had the opportunity to wash it by hand to see if they come off. Tonight I found an inconspicuous spot and shot some bug and tar remover on her to see if they would come off. The white ring is gone, but it appears that base of the stain/spot is still there. What are my best options to get rid of these spots?

I plan to hand wash it on Saturday morning and evaluate after that. I am thinking maybe a good cleaning wax?!?!? Some help or advice would be appreciated.

 

If it were me, I'd wash, clay bar, polish and wax.

 

Household grade white vinegar will dissolve and neutralize the calcium from the water which 99% chance is the residual you see....it will not harm the paint, then rinse with clear water when cleaned.

Claybar FYI-

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...r-bar-1997.jpg
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...y-bar-2006.jpg

Mequire's clay bar (as an example) is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat which must have at minimum 3 mil thickness to provide adequate shine & UV fade protection.



These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals.

 

w....t...f?

 

Washed the truck and dried it. All the white mineral marks are gone, but the staining outline is still there. I tried a quick 50/50 vinegar solution and that did a little, but the staining is still visible. Tried some Meguiars scratch X in one spot and that really did not do anything either.

I am not going to have time to work on it again until Saturday. I am going to call a couple local detail shops and get their opinions.... frustrating...

 

Clay Bar. If that doesn't fix it, a light machine polish should do the trick. Do you have access to a machine and the knowledge to use it? If you are going to take it to a local shop, make sure you take it to a good one, and if any of them mention wet sanding, then run.


Ignore Beech.. He doesn't know what the hell he is talking about .. Later on, he will be telling you to wash your truck with plain water and dry it with a diaper. Then he will post a pic of a stupid reflection shot that doesn't show anything and claim his 20 year old paint looks better than factory.

 

So what would you recommend? You're show why not use clay bar, it would be nice to give us an option. As far as I know clay bar is the best option out there.

 

I would try a cleaner/wax first,

I've used clay bar many times but I have never used in to remove the water spots you described,

if that doesnt work go to a mild polish, one product I use is Meguiars M205-finishing polish, I apply it with either a dual action or circular polisher

All the experts say start with the least aggressive approach to repairing paint defects

 

Thanks Gip. I have never used a DA or a buffer. I have one I bought 10 years ago. I think it is a turtle wax 10" buffer. Never used it though.... I have always done everything by hand.

I have also never clay barred anything....

 

Listen to Gipraw

With beechkid's post all we need is the scam oil guy and we have a play date

 

I am stopping by the body shop that did some work on my 2010 F150 after work. They are a legitimate shop and well known in the community. I was very happy when they fixed a couple things on my 2010. Will update later.....

 

That 10" won't do anything. no need to even try .

You could pick up some Megs 205 and sport treat by hand. I would try that prior to wetsanding ..

The body shop should be able to point you in the right direction, but sometimes those guys want to wetsand when it isn't needed. It will fix the issue for sure, but as fresh as this is, there shouldn't be enough deep etching to require that.

Megs 205 and a microfiber towel, working the spots by hand, should take care of it .. using a Clay bar is simple, and cheap.

Or you could take a road trip and I would be happy to knock it out for you ..

.

 

I am assuming that 10" buffer I have is only good for waxing?

Cypress is about 900 miles.... I'll pass, but I do appreciate the offer.

I will talk with the body shop about not wet sanding. I am also going to try that 205. Can you get it at Autozone or O'Reilly's?

As far as the "freshness of the spots".. I noticed them last Saturday and it has been stupid hot here (100+)... so they were on the truck for about 6 days until last night. And now it is just the stains, but most of the minerals should be gone.

 

That 10" would be ok for applying wax if you have a good foam bonnet for it .. that is about all it is good for.


Yes .. you can get the 205 and a Clay bar kit (Meg's, Mother's or Clay Magic, doesn't matter which) at O'Reillys, Advance or Autozone.

after claying, just take a small dab on the towel or applicator, and work it back and forth, then up and down with your fingers and moderate pressure until it starts drying, they wipe off with a clean towel. Work small sections at a time once you verify it is working. If that doesn't get it for some reason, then you will need a machine.

good luck.

 

Im not going to get into the middle of the Clay bar debate, its been gone over far too much already.

To the OP, I have had the same problem, and I was able to get hard water spots off by hand using Megs Ultimate Compound and a lot of elbow grease. Takes am hour or two per side, but I was happy with the results.