So I'm sure this is already in here but correct me if im wrong it goes
Clay bar
polish
glaze
sealent
wax


or is the polish over kill? Thanks ya'll

Tex.

 

Depends on your definition of polish. If you mean polish by removing swirls and such, then no. If you mean polish by like a pure polish, then perhaps. Also, people generally put a sealant (synthetic) on top of the wax (carnauba).

Other than those two minor details, it's correct.

 

Isn't it the other way around?

In generalities, you clay, do paint correction, then polish and protect.

 

I've always heard people putting the synthetic on top because it "lasts longer and is more durable" and it "makes the carnauba [look] last longer." I don't think that hard about it personally; I pick a wax (or "sealant") and have at it.

 

Hmm - the way it used to be here when this was a viable detailing forum was to use a synthetic, then top it with carnauba to make it look better.

 

I'm not from Meguiar's, and I only occasionally use their products (I've had great luck with Zymol), but here's a nice detailed post in their forum that describes their "recommended" process:

Wash, clean, polish, protect, maintain

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=37320

 

Sealant, then wax. if you wax first, the sealant won't bond correctly.

 

Make sure to wash before you clay.

 

Yes sealant first then wax like gipraw said the sealant won't bond right on top of wax
Wash
Clay
Wash again personal preference here
Swirl remover
Polish
Glaze
Sealant
Wax if wanted
Hope this helps

 

I stand corrected then. Like I said, I've never paid too much attention to it because I pick my LSP and use it.

 

I'm curious, why wash again? There is nothing gained from it, and there is always the chance of introducing new issues to the finish.

 

I personally don't do a second wash but some people on the detailing forums in Adams say you should so I just gave the option
Dave

 

Clay Bar

Ford/GM/Chrysler/MB/Porsche all have service directives that specifically refer to paint correction/contamination procedures and clay bar is not a referred procedure and specifically identified as a method which only removes the surface level paint contaminants and as such, the "root' of the contaminant remains continues to destroy the paint from underneath the surface layer of the paint.

Just remember, Mequire's clay bar is rated at 3500 grit. There much better clay bar products out there rated at much finer grits- so if you are comfortable and believe your paint needs to be wet-sanded, and that is the only and safest way to correct the flaw/issue, then do so but remember, for 90% for all paint contamination issues there are products designed to relieve/remove/neutralize the contaminants without reducing the mil thickness of the clear coat

These procedures date back to 1990 and are still published in current oem paint maintenance publications/service manuals. If you would like a copy, pm me.

 

Nevermind. Not feeding the troll; I remember reading this post several times elsewhere.

USE the clay.

 

Haha @ beechkid. Really? This again?