What exactly do clay bars do?

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Old Apr 24, 2001 | 06:46 PM
  #1  
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Post What exactly do clay bars do?

I keep hearing about clay bars but i dont know what exactly they do. Is the process using them easy? And do they cover up scraches? Worth the money?
 
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Old Apr 25, 2001 | 01:44 AM
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The clay bar works like an ultra fine sandpaper. If used properly with the proper lubricating liquid, it doesn't scratch paint while it removes grit that's embedded in the paint.

Read the instructions carefully when using clay bars. If you don't follow the instructions, you'll scratch your paint.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2001 | 10:55 AM
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I think comparing a clay bar to "fine sandpaper" is a bit strong. I'd never think of trying a clay bar if it sounded like I was going to rip the hell out of my finish.
I use the "Erazer" brand product. Their website provides some info about what clay bars do and how to use theirs (which is like most everyone elses!)
JSL: Good info here. Check it out:
http://www.erazer.com/
I bought my clay bar at:
http://www.autofanatics.com/carcarecorner1.html

[This message has been edited by sundog7 (edited 04-25-2001).]
 
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Old Apr 27, 2001 | 12:17 AM
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To answer your other questions. It's very easy to use, it doesn't cover up scratches and it's very much worth the money.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2001 | 12:38 AM
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Clay bars have been the best thing to come on the market in assisting in removing SURFACE DEFECTS. Clay can remove fallout,overspray,industrial contaminats, but will not remove defects like scrathes,swirls,and oxidation. An excellant product to use that will leave the surface of your vehicle feeling like glass. There are differant grades and makes of clay so depending on the color of vehicle and problem you should get some assistance. You can check out our site at coatsproducts.com
for some help.The erazer and clay magic are both good clays.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2001 | 04:34 PM
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Hello JSL1414,

Here is my info on clay bars. I hope to clear up some misconceptions about this product.

There have been tremendous amounts of advertising and "hype" about overspray clays. Overspray clays have been around since the 1930's. What is new is the marketing of a product for a use other than it was designed.

Overspray clay is a plasticine matrix with an abrasive intermixed throughout. It was designed and is still the best product to abrade (read grind off) fresh paint overspray from existing paint. This is a classic
scenario of its designed usage. A body shop repaints a fender of your car and during the preparation process does not mask off the entire car. A little overspray finds its way onto other areas of your car. This overspray consists of tiny little dots of paint on top of the existing paint. The easiest way to remove this unwanted overspray is to "grind" it off with the clay. Copious amounts of lubricant such as Meguiar #34 Final Inspection or One Grand Show Off are sprayed on the paint and the clay is hydroplaned across the surface to abrade the little bumps of fresh paint from the existing paint. The body shop person "floats" the clay back and forth across the paint using only lateral pressure until the resistance ceases, indicating that the unwanted droplets have been ground off.

Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin. You will uncover a layer of fresh clean skin, but this may not be the most comfortable nor beneficial experience for your face. Clays smooth the surface of paint by grinding off the microscopic high spots of your paint, much like sandpaper smoothes a piece of wood. They are the best way to remove paint overspray, tree sap build up and other impossible to remove surface contaminants. Realize that you are also removing some paint with the contaminants, so usage of a clay should be utilized only after all other more gentle methods of cleaning your paint have failed.

Overspray clay is a double-edged sword. It can be a scratch waiting to happen. It must be used with only on a well-lubricated area and must be continually checked for contaminants. If you rub it on areas of the paint that have not been well lubricated or a piece of grit lodges in the clay, you have made "sandpaper" that will scratch the paint.

Personally, instead of the clay bar, I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Not only does it do what the clay is "supposed" to do, it is safer and It also "feeds" the paint with emollient oils. This will give you a killer shine on your truck!

I hope this helps a bit

-Tills

------------------
2001 F-150XLT SuperCab, Styleside, Silver, 4X4, 4R70, 5.4L, 3.55LS, 17in Rubber, Sport Package, Bedliner, Sliding Rear Window and the Wrong Radiator

[This message has been edited by LeatherRebel (edited 04-28-2001).]
 
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Old Apr 29, 2001 | 11:48 PM
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DON`T DO IT
I used a clay bar on my truck (its black)
and totaly ********d up the paint. i have no idea how much it will cost to fix it.
lots of scratches.

Larry.
 
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Old May 1, 2001 | 11:36 AM
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Washing your truck thoroughly usually helps ,,,,98
 
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Old May 1, 2001 | 11:44 AM
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clayed my brand new 01HD, it looks great. Just read the directions and use plenty of a lubricating liquid. Clay and 2 coats of Cherry Wet Wax and it's a thing to behold.

------------------
- 2001 F150 Harley Davidson Special
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Old May 2, 2001 | 10:41 AM
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Thank you Screamer, you took the words right out of my mouth.

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Leather Captain's Chairs and every option but the leaky slider window.
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& a leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust.
 
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Old May 2, 2001 | 04:23 PM
  #11  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by LeatherRebel:
Hello JSL1414,

Here is my info on clay bars. I hope to clear up some misconceptions about this product.

There have been tremendous amounts of advertising and "hype" about overspray clays. Overspray clays have been around since the 1930's. What is new is the marketing of a product for a use other than it was designed.

Overspray clay is a plasticine matrix with an abrasive intermixed throughout. It was designed and is still the best product to abrade (read grind off) fresh paint overspray from existing paint. This is a classic
scenario of its designed usage. A body shop repaints a fender of your car and during the preparation process does not mask off the entire car. A little overspray finds its way onto other areas of your car. This overspray consists of tiny little dots of paint on top of the existing paint. The easiest way to remove this unwanted overspray is to "grind" it off with the clay. Copious amounts of lubricant such as Meguiar #34 Final Inspection or One Grand Show Off are sprayed on the paint and the clay is hydroplaned across the surface to abrade the little bumps of fresh paint from the existing paint. The body shop person "floats" the clay back and forth across the paint using only lateral pressure until the resistance ceases, indicating that the unwanted droplets have been ground off.

Many people are touting overspray clay as the new way to "clean" your paint. This is somewhat like washing your face by peeling off the top layer of skin. You will uncover a layer of fresh clean skin, but this may not be the most comfortable nor beneficial experience for your face. Clays smooth the surface of paint by grinding off the microscopic high spots of your paint, much like sandpaper smoothes a piece of wood. They are the best way to remove paint overspray, tree sap build up and other impossible to remove surface contaminants. Realize that you are also removing some paint with the contaminants, so usage of a clay should be utilized only after all other more gentle methods of cleaning your paint have failed.

Overspray clay is a double-edged sword. It can be a scratch waiting to happen. It must be used with only on a well-lubricated area and must be continually checked for contaminants. If you rub it on areas of the paint that have not been well lubricated or a piece of grit lodges in the clay, you have made "sandpaper" that will scratch the paint.

Personally, instead of the clay bar, I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Not only does it do what the clay is "supposed" to do, it is safer and It also "feeds" the paint with emollient oils. This will give you a killer shine on your truck!

I hope this helps a bit

-Tills

</font>
You could have at least mentioned your source of www.carcareonline.com/overspray_clays.html since you copied it nearly word for word. At least let the guy responsible for this drivel have the credit.



[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-02-2001).]
 
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Old May 2, 2001 | 05:58 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BlueOvalBolt:
You could have at least mentioned your source of www.carcareonline.com/overspray_clays.html since you copied it nearly word for word. At least let the guy responsible for this drivel have the credit.

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-02-2001).]
</font>

How do you know somebody else didn't send him that info and he cut and pasted it here? Lots of times, things get posted all over the place and the attribution gets lost.

He didn't say he wrote it. He said this was the info he had.

Anyway, I still like my explanaton the best. It's short and sweet.
 
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Old May 4, 2001 | 01:05 PM
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Dennis

First of all, I am a believer of crediting those who supply information of any type particularly if you cannot speak from first hand experience.

Secondly, he and I have gone around on the virtues of clay before at www.f150online.com/f150board/Forum8/HTML/000288.html where he directly links to this site as part of his arguement. I have no problem with that and in our exchange, we agreed to disagree on the subject. But then, when I read this post, it sounded familiar and sure enough it was from that site. So ok, I pass it off as as maybe he just forgot to mention it. But then I go to www.f150online.comf150board/Forum8/HTML/000365.html where he writes:
____________________________________________
Hello Davremote,
I just wrote a small piece on clay bars (hoping for the pulitzer this year!)

You can check it out here.

https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000377.html

I hope this helps!!

-Tills
____________________________________________

Hoping for a Pulitzer on the "small piece he wrote"!? What's up with that. IMO, either speak from exprerience or reference your source, don't come aff as an expert on a product you haven't used or understand.

I would agree with your post but am little uncomfortable with the "ultra fine sandpaper" comparison. My personal favorite description of what a clay bar does is the Zaino explaination at http://www.zainobros.com/files/z18.htm

Short and sweet, I gotta try that sometime.


[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-04-2001).]

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-04-2001).]

[This message has been edited by BlueOvalBolt (edited 05-04-2001).]
 
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Old May 4, 2001 | 04:36 PM
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OK. I stand corrected. Thanks for the link to where he took credit for what he "wrote" in this thread.

I tend to give the benefit of the doubt, but in this case, you came up with something that said he actually authored what he wrote here.

 
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Old May 5, 2001 | 06:55 PM
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I agree, there are even spec'd chemicals for removing iron oxides and chemical fall out from our paint. Ford even has a bulletin out that is also reprinted in the new service manuals advising not to use clay bars. I have used the recommended chemicals and they work great if the hand glaze fails.

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