Took a trip down to the deer lease, and got a nice custom pin striping job done while I was down there. Is it safe to use Meguiars #105 only on the affected areas, or will it leave an uneven look. I've only had my truck about 6mo so the paint is in good shape. It's a 2010. Before the pin striping I planned on washing/claying/#7 polish/wax. Will this process remove the stripes, or will I need to compound them? Thanks for any help! -Mac

 

If the pinstriping didn't have a clearcoat put over them, I wouldn't do anything besides wax them.

 

What color truck? You might try Meg's Ultimate Compound, follow it up with Meg's Scratch X and Meg's NXT Tech Wax. This will keep from the possibility of swirl marks. If this doesn't do the trick you will need to step up to a more aggressive compound.

 

 

Is it this bad?

Before


Almost finished

 

Wow! No, it's nowhere near that bad. Problem is...I'm torn between being semi OCD with my truck, and using it like a truck. I'll probably start with the least aggressive approach. Wash/Clay/Megs #7 polish/Megs #26 Wax. All this will be done by hand. If that doesn't work, I'll go from there with a compound/DA buffer. I picked up a Megs clay kit from Wally Mart. Will that be enough clay to do my truck? Thanks for all the responses. I really appreciate them. -Mac

 

Mac, least aggressive is the FIRST rule in detailing but Megs #7 isn't remotely close to what you need. If you want to go safe, pick some Megs 80 or 205. But both will do you little good by hand.

Where are you located?

 

I'm in Abilene. I'm just trying to do what I can without dropping a $150 on a DA buffer. If I do go the buffer/compound route, can I just work the affected areas? Or will that leave an uneven finish? I'm pretty sure the finish will be uneven since I'm removing from that area and not the rest of the truck. Is that a concern?

 

If you ever come to Fort Worth, look me up, we can knock it out....but to answer your question, you'll want to do the entire surface as yes it will look different. If they are only 2-4 inches long then I would say use ScrachX on them....but if you hunt in the same areas as me and it sounds like you do, you have multi marks that are all the way down the sides.


300 to spend on a machine, pads and products is a good investment if you ask me. That way you can keep your whip looking good.

 

I might just give her the wash/clay/polish/wax treatment now, and give a good detailing with buffer/compound post season. That sounds like a good way to compromise between being semi OCD/using my truck. If all else fails, I might just look you up. I have family in the DFW area who can put me up for a night or two.

 

Detailing your truck mid "insert game" season is pointless. I don't working on my truck from the start of Dove til the end of Deer. Then again in Spring for Turkey.

But I do keep snips in my truck, if I see the trail get tight, I will get out and start cutting.

 

That's true. A good set of tree clippers should be essential. Better yet, I'll just drive one of the two jeeps at the camp next time.

 

i use a buddys truck

 

Eh, crap. I get it now.

 

The #7 is a glaze and won't help at all. The #105 is great, IF YOU HAVE A D/A buffer. You'll never accomplish much correction w/o a buffer (get a Griot's; lots of power and reasonably priced. Start with orange pads, but you may need a yellow if they don't touch it).

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ars-m105-m205/

But like you say, the pinstriping must be under the clearcoat or it's toast. Then use Megs #205 to polish it out. If you buff just part of the panel, it may look shinier than the rest of the truck, but you can always do the rest of the truck at your leisure.

Jim