i wasn't knocking anyone. i was just asking if all swirl X do's is cover instead of removing swirl's.

 

Only the first sentence was directed at you.

 

o.k., cool, thank's for the advice.

 

I appreciate the help. After all of this, I'm really not so sure that there is really much of a difference. I am so afraid to use any kind of machine on the truck, so I may have to call an expert. I've just always been one of those people who hate to pay for services. I have always believed that if it can be done by myself, then I do. I just hate the thought of messing up my truck.

 

Honestly, if you have a good wash technique, paying a professional is well worth the money. If you have to question your washing and drying technique then it's probably not as good as it should be and you'll probably muck up the detailers work in a short period of time anyway. That said, doing it yourself is a good way to go as well. With a decent machine (PC 7424, 7424XP, G110 or even a Flex - don't remember the model number, basically avoid a rotary to start) some polishes in various aggressions (that a word?), a good wax or sealant and some high quality MF towels, all of which combined could wind up being cheaper than a pro job, you could really get some great results with very little chance of screwing anything up. A little bit of common sense and some good direction from some of the folks here or other places like The Detailers Cafe (hwm3 for example) and you could be on your way to great looking paint (also wheels, tires, trim, interior, etc) and self satisfaction. If you're really uncomfortable though then by all means take it to an expert.

 

You can do more damage to the clear coat with an improper wash technique or compounding than you ever could using a Dual Action Polishing Machine.

I was told many years ago that anytime you polish your vehicle you remove clear so I avoided it until recently when I began collecting facts and reading detailing forums and listening to professionals (Paint and Body Shops) discuss the pros and cons...

Most Professional detailers today use digital paint gages as part of evaluating the job. You would be surprised at the before and after numbers of properly detailed vehicles and you would also be surprised at the damage uneven hand/arm pressure can do to clear coat using compounds along with dirty wash mitts/autowash brushes and their harsh soap.

As was said before...if it looks good to you that's all thats all that should matter but knowledgeable hobby or professional detailer are not going to let you slide on misinformation or bad advice.

 

For example, this person tried to use Ultimate Compoud by hand.


Some people have praised Ultimate Compound for how well it works but with poor technique, you get results like the above picture. To sum up the picture, a lot of hard work, tired arms, sore back combined with not properly "working" the product in and uneven pressure on the pad caused by finger tip pressure caused that. All that work for nothing. He could have put half the effort in and received night and day results by using a machine. Also, he more than likely did the entire car in a garage or in the shade and didn't bother pulling it in to the sun to check any of his work before he proceded to finish.

 

 

I have a reasonable knowledge of products and techniques, but I have mine done professionally once a year. The only work I do myself by hand is washing and spray detailing/waxing. I let the pros do machine correction, you just are not going to effectively do any kind of true correction by hand with any product. Masking? Sure - if you do it right, you can get it looking very decent by hand. However, it will not stand up to a detailed inspection under direct sunlight or a set of halogen lights.

I don't just take it to any old "pro" - I take it to a person in San Diego every winter when I'm out there who does a fantastic job, and he is also a moderator on the Meguiars forums. If I were to take it to someone around here, I'd drive the 3.5 hours down to hwm3's place, the so-called pros around here don't impress me at all, their definition of "detailing" seems to be to go after it with a rotary and some old 3M products.

 

I used Ultimate Compound on my truck. I had swirl marks and alot of scratches. What you need to do is pick a small spot. Make sure your in really good sun light and do a little spot to test it. If you press to hard it makes swirls but it will take a big scratch out. Finish it up with light circle motion then wipe it off and it will look amazing. If you do the whole truck do the big scratches if you have any first. Then do light pressure all over the whole truck in circle motions. This is what i did and it looks amazing. If you press hard it will look like the honda civic in the above picture, but you can go over it with light circle motion and it will take all that away. I think its really nice. Also rubb your hand on your paint if it makes a scratching sound you need to clay bar it. The clay bar works really good to. It makes the paint surface soo smooth and shine. The hood and the tailgate are the worst spots that need clayed.